Plus 2 wiper under dash measurement request

[stugilmour]

I am looking to replace my wiper system on my LHD 1969 Plus 2 Federal. As it is likely I will need the dash out, I would prefer to have all parts to hand before I start. I have a couple of other jobs to complete with the dash out anyway.

Either of these packages looks perfect:

https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/products/wiper2 ... l-box#pic1

https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/windscreen-wiper-kit

In order to complete my order I require measurements for the distance from the motor (mounted on the right side of the car) to the right side wheel box, the distance between the two wheel boxes, and the length of the bundy tube stub out the end of the second wheel box. With these measurements the first supplier will provide new flared bundy tube sections, making the job much easier to get right if the tubes are being replaced. If I order the second package I may just start by using the total length to cut the drive rack length and insert it into the existing wheel boxes and save a ton of work.

Does someone have their dash removed and can provide some dimensions? I have attached a measuring template from the first parts listing. Note they measure from the middle of the wheel boxes rather than where the flared tube may actually mount on the wheel box. For reference the second supplier has an excellent video showing exactly how the whole system works and how to do the job.

Measurement template from Stafford Vehicle Components wiper system

Does the heater have to be removed to replace the centre bundy tube? I figure the heater cannot be removed with the engine in place as I can’t see sufficient access to the heater core nipple clamps in the engine bay, so I would probably simply leave the centre bundy tube in place if removal is required. Then I may be better off leaving the tubes in place and just replacing the drive rack, or attaching the new wheel boxes to the existing tubes.

Here is my understanding of the other Plus 2 wiper system parameters that I have gleaned from archive posts and supplier information. Please let me know if you see anything in error or needing checking.

Wheel box: 32 tooth with long shafts (~65 mm or 2.56”), 13.5 mm spline diameter.
Gear: 125 degree sweep.
Drive rack: Easy to trim to fit with a grinder if I know the correct dimensions.
Motor: 14 watt two speed.
Wiring: All good in my case. Have attached an excellent simple schematic I found for reference.

Simple two speed wiper wiring schematic.

849ED87D-F501-429B-B840-3109037922F1.png (7.26 KiB) Viewed 470 times

Switch: Service existing flat switch as described in this excellent thread or replace with new from RD Enterprises.

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=32124&start=#p215606

Thanks in advance

Stu

[Donels]

In the dash/ heater area the last thing I took out on disassembly was the wiper mechanism, so I suspect you may need to remove the heater or pull it back to get access. However, the wiper tube and wheel boxes are only held in place by the wheel box nut around the spindle if you release these and can push the spindle through the hole you may be able to wiggle enough space to disconnect the wheel box from the tube. It should then just pull out.

[Bud English]

I PM'd you this morning but I don't think you've seen it yet.
I still have my whole wiper system out of the car. I built it up on the bench this morning and here are the measurements you asked for and some you didn't.

End of motor to first center: 18.75 inches
Center to center: 16.25 inches
Second center to end of third bundy tube:3"
Rack length: 40 inches

These measurements are as the supplier asked for. If you want or need the actual measurements of each bundy tube, I can take them too. The first bundy is a compound curve. I took that measurement by inserting the rack, marking it and measuring the inserted length.

My only concern would be the "motor length" that they list and where that measurement is taken from. If it differs from the stock motor it will affect the length of the first bundy tube in order to mount the motor in the original location.

[stugilmour]

I was typing this while Bud was preparing his message. Thanks to all for all the great information.

That would be great Bud.

Agree on the motor dimension issue; good catch. I have attached a dimensional picture of the Car Builder kit for reference. That should assist with doing some checks and math to get it right.

Based on Donel’s excellent picture it looks like the centre tube will be staying in place for now. No way I am up for removing the heater box with the engine in; I just don’t see access to the heater core nipples being possible.

Now leaning towards the less expensive Car Builder’s kit, which is supplied with a single length of bundy tube that one cuts to length and flares as required. In the Car Builder’s excellent video he actually shows a bodge to add the flare using needle nose pliers which might work OK; not like flaring a brake or fuel line I guess.

Although I will probably purchase a complete kit, I will focus on just replacing the longer curved section of tubing from the motor to the right side wheel box. I am thinking the relatively straight intermediate tube and tube stub are probably not that worn anyway. I read somewhere in my research that it is recommended to change the steel tubes as they are subject to wear, but I think it is more realistic to just change the curved section and hope for the best.

Apparently from my research the big issues with the fifty year old system (besides the obvious potential electrical stuff in the motor, switch, wiring, etc) is hardened grease, localized wear of the drive rack at the wheel boxes, and wheel box gear wear. It really was a miss that I didn’t replace the hard to get to components when I had the car completely apart, but that is just hindsight now.

Here is an interesting suggestion I read. The idea was to release the existing drive rack from the motor and simply rotate it to get the spiral drive rack to engage a different quadrant of the existing wheel boxes. Perhaps this can be done without even removing the dash. Apparently it is a bit tricky to re-engage both wheel boxes without removing them from the tubing if the drive rack is completely pulled out, so the list member speculated that just twisting the cable (at a guess say 16 rotations on a 32 tooth wheel) should expose new unworn teeth. Unfortunately the poster didn’t report back with results, but the idea seems to have merit and might be a simple first step. Does this make any sense to you looking at the whole system on the bench? Perhaps the 32 tooth gears do a complete rotation at 110 degree sweep anyway and nothing would be gained?

Thanks for take the measurements in any case. I can certainly use the total length to cut the drive rack even if I don’t replace all the tubing. I have to stay realistic that I can probably figure something out once I get going even if I actually buy some stuff I don’t use.

My goal is to get this (and a few other annoying items) completed this winter so I can enter a non competitive touring rally next spring. No way I can head thru the Rocky Mountains again with dodgy wipers though!

This rally is actually organized by a member of our BC Lotus club and attracts a very cool and eclectic entry

https://classiccaradventures.com/bc-eve ... vent-info/

This link to previous events shows the cars that enter. I figure having dinner with a guy that is willing to drive a rare DB4 or E Type thru Canadian spring weather for the shear joy of driving has got to be just the ticket for a post Covid event!

https://classiccaradventures.com/2022/0 ... o-preview/

Cheers and thanks

Stu in Calgary

[111Robin]

I recently removed and refitted the whole wiper system without having to remove the dash. It is RHD though, not sure if that makes much of a difference. It's worth having a closer look before you go to the bother of removing the dash.

[stugilmour]

That is heartening Robin.

Did you source a new system as described above? Replacement motor dimensions close enough to stock to work OK?

Just trying to refine details and order parts right now.

I may have a couple of other small items to complete while the dash is removed, but going to look carefully to see if I can avoid the hassle.

Stu

[111Robin]

I just cleaned and regreased rack and motor and lubricated the boxes. I haven't used it in anger yet but it works smoothly even on a dry screen.

[stugilmour]

Thanks Robin. I think I will try that approach first as well.

Cheers

Stu

Note I edited my earlier post to correct the sweep angle from 110 degrees to the correct for the Plus 2 125 degrees. I found this thread that references a Lucas book for a 1970 Plus 2.

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=16445