Replacing choke and bonnet release cables
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I thought i would mention this;
In the past I have replaced the inner cables on the above by cutting off the old cable and carefully drilling out the old cable from the knob or Tee pull. Very hard and wrecked drills. PITA.
On the last two I decided to Dremel out with a disc from the side. This worked well in seconds and gave a nice clean slot to sweat the new cable in. I have a roll of stainless steel wire that i use for the window motors. Rightly or wrongly I clean using isopropyl alcohol and then use Bakers fluid and tin mans solder. Seems to work well and be very strong. You can dress the excess solder in the shaft slot with a round needle file and Bobs your Uncle.
I have used silver solder in the past on non stainless cable but requires too much heat.
I believe there is special flux for Stainless stuff but the above seems fine. Anybody any better advice on stainless?
Cheers Mike
In the past I have replaced the inner cables on the above by cutting off the old cable and carefully drilling out the old cable from the knob or Tee pull. Very hard and wrecked drills. PITA.
On the last two I decided to Dremel out with a disc from the side. This worked well in seconds and gave a nice clean slot to sweat the new cable in. I have a roll of stainless steel wire that i use for the window motors. Rightly or wrongly I clean using isopropyl alcohol and then use Bakers fluid and tin mans solder. Seems to work well and be very strong. You can dress the excess solder in the shaft slot with a round needle file and Bobs your Uncle.
I have used silver solder in the past on non stainless cable but requires too much heat.
I believe there is special flux for Stainless stuff but the above seems fine. Anybody any better advice on stainless?
Cheers Mike
Mike
Elan S4 Zetec
Suzuki Hustler T250
Suzuki TC120R trailcat
Yamaha YR5
Suzuki Vstrom 650XT
Suzuki TS185K
Elan S4 Zetec
Suzuki Hustler T250
Suzuki TC120R trailcat
Yamaha YR5
Suzuki Vstrom 650XT
Suzuki TS185K
-
miked - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 29 Sep 2003
Having difficulty visualizing your approach. A few pictures would likely help. What is "Bakers fluid" & "mans solder"?
Steve Lyle
1972 Elan Sprint 0248k @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-Lot ... 48K.30245/
1972 MGB Roadster @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-MG- ... 842G.4498/
2007 BMW 335i Coupe
1972 Elan Sprint 0248k @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-Lot ... 48K.30245/
1972 MGB Roadster @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-MG- ... 842G.4498/
2007 BMW 335i Coupe
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steve lyle - Fourth Gear
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- Joined: 15 Jun 2015
Tinmans solder is 40% tin and 60% lead. Bakers fluid is a soldering flux. Water based and looks like water.
If you google you will see more about them. I have them mainly for making up my own motorcycle cables when hard to find. Great for nipples. Also I have a small molten little bath for dipping tiny throttle nipples which are brass.
I will do a couple of photos when i can. May have an old bonnet release handle. Basically, the Dremel with a small disc in cuts out the cable that was factory crimped in the shaft of the handle. Longitudinal cut near the end were the cable is crimped for about 5/8 of an inch.
If you google you will see more about them. I have them mainly for making up my own motorcycle cables when hard to find. Great for nipples. Also I have a small molten little bath for dipping tiny throttle nipples which are brass.
I will do a couple of photos when i can. May have an old bonnet release handle. Basically, the Dremel with a small disc in cuts out the cable that was factory crimped in the shaft of the handle. Longitudinal cut near the end were the cable is crimped for about 5/8 of an inch.
Mike
Elan S4 Zetec
Suzuki Hustler T250
Suzuki TC120R trailcat
Yamaha YR5
Suzuki Vstrom 650XT
Suzuki TS185K
Elan S4 Zetec
Suzuki Hustler T250
Suzuki TC120R trailcat
Yamaha YR5
Suzuki Vstrom 650XT
Suzuki TS185K
-
miked - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1192
- Joined: 29 Sep 2003
Hi Mike,
Way back I seem to remember getting satisfactory results on stainless with ordinary Easyflo No 2 flux.
One snag is that it is not suitable for immersion in water, such as pipework. A long term failure occurs due to `Crevice Corrosion`. A different grade of silver solder is necessary, and /or flux. Sorry, I have no details on that.
Eric in Burnley
S3SE DHC
Way back I seem to remember getting satisfactory results on stainless with ordinary Easyflo No 2 flux.
One snag is that it is not suitable for immersion in water, such as pipework. A long term failure occurs due to `Crevice Corrosion`. A different grade of silver solder is necessary, and /or flux. Sorry, I have no details on that.
Eric in Burnley
S3SE DHC
- ericbushby
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1353
- Joined: 13 Jun 2011
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