No ignition

PostPost by: street » Sun Jun 20, 2021 8:31 am

Hi,

Engine back in after full rebuild, battery fully charged and good amps, fuel pump pro
Es and turning key hear the solenoid and that’s it. Nothing at all. Is it possible to connect the alternator the wrong way around (white connector block) my starter motor only has live connection does it need earth as per wiring diagrams. Any logical thought processes welcome
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PostPost by: mikealdren » Sun Jun 20, 2021 8:35 am

Have you fitted the earth strap to the engine?
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PostPost by: street » Sun Jun 20, 2021 8:47 am

Yes two straps, one each side as before removal
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PostPost by: Emma-Knight » Sun Jun 20, 2021 9:04 am

I just had this game with a 1965 6Volt Beetle convertible. With pre engaged starter, the stage 1 in the engagement solenoid did not get enough amps to reach stage two „hold support/motor contact”. So no power to the starter motor.
With the old Lucas set up solenoid only / motor only, I would look for burned contacts in the solenoid.
Weak power to the solenoid could also make a weak main contact.
Also, if the Bendix has jammed in the ring gear, you may get the impression the motor doesn’t move for electrical reasons.(though it would dimm the lights)
With correct earth straps engine/chassis/batterie (! - motor will not turn on low amps even at good voltage readings), I would clean, polish all contacts on that route, maybe try to rotate the starter motor by hand, if there is a bad contact between coals and commutator.
For the Beetle, carefully cleaning all contacts (don’t forget earth strap end points) did the job. It started right away, now without start spray :D
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Last edited by Emma-Knight on Sun Jun 20, 2021 9:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: street » Sun Jun 20, 2021 9:08 am

Thanks, I think I will start with the starter, and work backwards from there
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PostPost by: HCA » Sun Jun 20, 2021 9:12 am

street wrote:Hi,

Is it possible to connect the alternator the wrong way around (white connector block) my starter motor only has live connection does it need earth as per wiring diagrams. Any logical thought processes welcome


Not really possible as there are different sized spades in the connector block - besides an incorrectly alternator is not your issue.

Your title says 'no ignition', but in fact reads to be no starter yes?

You are saying that you hear the solenoid click, but no reaction from starter? I assume you are using the original spinning bendix type motor? Then this is isolated to the HD cable from solenoid to the starter and/or the starter itself. Have you bench tested the starter before installation? It could be remotely possible that the solenoid terminals are gummed up inside but highly unlikely. Another possibility is that your engine straps are not in fact making a good earth. No need to look anywhere else at this stage.
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PostPost by: street » Sun Jun 20, 2021 9:54 am

Yes, I’m with you. I have no ignition light and no starter. When you talk about earth, bare metal I assume as I did some painting when engine was out, so logically, earths may be weak.
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PostPost by: HCA » Sun Jun 20, 2021 10:26 am

OK, I do not wish to appear to be patronising, but you are at basic electrical level, maybe this is your first foray into the subject, yes? No matter, it is easy to pick up.

Earths. Bare metal definitely :D To do the job properly and if possible, go further and 'tin' all points you wish to use as earths - this is applying a lead solder coating to the metal to counter corrosion, and yes, no painting once applied! So first, check your earths - clean neg battery terminal and strap to bare metal of chassis. Then strap bare metal of engine to bare metal of chassis. Then HD cable from large pole of battery to solenoid large pole. If you can hear the solenoid click and the starter is good, then it should crank.

Now, you have no ignition light. Again no big deal. Oddly, the so called ignition light has nothing whatsoever to do with the ignition circuit. It is a function of the alterntor/dynamo. So first question - your car is definitely wired for an alternator - ie you are not using an alternator to replace a dynamo, yes? Dumb question maybe, but must be asked. If yes, your car is alternator, how many connection are on the back of the alternator and how are they marked? Likewise the connector block? Not all alternators use the square white block you might have.

Before you start connecting alternators, you must be careful or you will have a melt down if you make a mistake! Do you have a reliable multi meter?
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PostPost by: street » Sun Jun 20, 2021 8:51 pm

Thanks, and yes I have a reliable multimeter. I will do the straps later as its more than likely a case of too much paint. I will unplug the alternator and check, as I obviously unplugged the unit, so it is either on right or 180 degrees out.
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PostPost by: HCA » Sun Jun 20, 2021 9:37 pm

Now you have me really worried!

You cannot with alternators assume you can rotate a connector and it will work! Quite the opposite - if wired incorrectly you will undoubtedly blow the diodes in the regulator. I do not know of an alternar where it is even possible to reverse the connector, but worried by the suggestion!

I do urge you to seek assistance on the ground from an auto electrician who can show you everything.
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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Sun Jun 20, 2021 9:51 pm

First thing, check your starter is not jammed, can you turn the end of the starter shaft that sticks out of the end cover, it should turn relatively easily, also check you can turn over the engine by hand with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley or by putting it in gear and rocking the car back and forward. If free proceed.
Your starter solenoid should have a rubber cover on the bottom. Press this and that manually operates the starter.
If the starter turns you have a faulty solenoid or supply from the ignition switch to the solenoid.
If the starter still doesn’t turn but you have 12 volts on the solenoid connection to the starter you have either a faulty starter, or bad earth to the starter, or possibly a break in the wire from the solenoid to the starter.
Basically divide the system into sections and narrow down the problem area.
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine!
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PostPost by: billwill » Mon Jun 21, 2021 12:41 pm

Image


More information at: viewtopic.php?t=29235&p=194834

Note there is a small error in the above diagram, the lower end of the high tension wire in the spark coil is in fact connected internally to the lower end of the low tension coil and there should be a capacitor/condenser bridging the contact breaker in the distributor.




If you have a ballasted ignition system see this topic instead: viewtopic.php?f=38&t=48627&start=15 The starter solenoid will have TWO small spade connectors.

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