Alternator conversions: did you have to trim your mount bush

[tdskip]

Hi - not sure if I need to sign my water pump pulley or trim the rubber bushing on the alternator here?

Anyone else have some fettling to do to make sure it all lines up?

Hope everyone had a good weekend.

[pharriso]

Skip, please see https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=38341

Here is my installation:

I have drawings of the brackets I made if interested.

[tdskip]

Oops - Missed that discussion when I searched prior to asking. Thank you for the link and I will go through it in detail.

[joe7]

I had the same alignment problem. Took it to our local alternator rebuilder with the generator bolted to its bracket then bolted together to the alternator with its bracket so he could see the misalignment. He replaced the pulley with one to line up with the generator pulley. Hope that makes sense.

[alan.barker]

That looks like a rubber Exhaust Mount bobbin you're using.
Never seen that before and not so sure that's a good method
Alan

[Elanman99]

Maybe its me, but its not clear from the one picture what exactly is out of line with what.

Pardon me being so blunt but the slotted adjustment strip and the flexible exhaust mount look like a dogs breakfast!

If the adjuster strip was on the rearmost face of the water pump housing lug it looks as if it would then line up withe the alternator lug directly. In any event the fore and aft positioning of the alternator is determined by the bracket to the block and whatever spacers or washers needed for the belt pulleys to line up. Only then can the adjuster be positioned.

Ian

[pharriso]

Pardon me being so blunt but the slotted adjustment strip and the flexible exhaust mount look like a dogs breakfast!

Ian

If you look in this thread - https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=39280&p=272893 there is something similar:

Bean Alternator install?

Maybe this is Dave Bean's recommended installation. Must say I also find the rubber mounting unusual...

[alan.barker]

Imho
if you want to fit an Alternator it's best to fit a Lucas ACR17 like was fitted to later +2 Elans.
At least that would be inline with an option when the cars were built.
I am still running as original on my Sprint and can't convince myself to fit a Lucas ACR17 for the moment.
I have only just fitted a Cigar Lighter because of Car Club Rallies and GPS.
Alan

[Elanman99]

'If' the bobbin shaped thing is actually a bonded rubber mount (I give it the benefit of doubt in case its just a machined spacer that looks like rubber) then its use as an alternator fixing is just plain wrong.

Firstly it allows the alternator to move (rotate round its bottom mounting), movement will be small but the bottom bolts through the alternator lugs will wear the lug holes (unless the bottom bolts are so tight in which case the rubber mount will be unstressed and effectively redundant). Movement will be caused by any uneveness in the belt and small errors in pulley runout combined with engine vibration.

I've never used the 'Colin would not have done that' expression before now, but using a double Rose jointed linkage as an alternator mount is total overkill (weight, expense, and using multiple components). The only reason I can imagine it was conjured up is because it looks 'technical' or 'off a racing car'.

Ian

[Andy8421]

Imho
if you want to fit an Alternator it's best to fit a Lucas ACR17 like was fitted to later +2 Elans.
At least that would be inline with an option when the cars were built.
I am still running as original on my Sprint and can't convince myself to fit a Lucas ACR17 for the moment.
I have only just fitted a Cigar Lighter because of Car Club Rallies and GPS.
Alan

Alan,

I have wrestled with this question. None of our cars are 100% original, the old 'ship of Theseus' question comes up. If you are prepared to use modern replacement parts, then even if they are patterned on the original, the car is no longer as it was in period. The question is where do you draw the line. Is it cosmetic, or functional or striving for full 100% originality.

The old 17ACRs weren't great. Heavy, relatively low output and unreliable. On the Elan, the regulator at the rear gets cooked by the exhaust. The Denso alternators are better in every respect. If it is not going to be original, why pretend? I have a similar view of the Jenvey historic DCOE throttle bodies. Well engineered, but what's the point?

My current view is that changing certain components (alternator, decent sized rad and fans, geared starter, electronic ignition, rear drive shafts) enhance the experience of owning the car and do not detract. I have kept all of the original parts, and if someone in its later life wants to refit them, then that's fine.

Others may have a different view.

Andy.

[alan.barker]

Hi Andy,
i see what you're saying and for sure it's down to personal choice.
My sprint is running 100% original with only 1 exception a "Simobloc (hall effect)" because i can't find a good Condenser (all the replacement condensers have been China crap).
Original Dash, original seats never recovered, Engine not rebored, Rad and cooling fan original, still running doughnuts, Dynamo etc. I admit the Chassis was changed for a Lotus Galvanised one by Mile Wilkins which i can live with.
It depends also what you do with the car e.g. drive big distances or as a do just in the region where i live.
The most important is they are driven.
Have fun driving
Alan

[TBG]

As I recall it is not a very good idea to have a too highly rated alternator. The wiring is not up to 60 amps or so. The old ACR one has done me for 30 odd years without failing so can't be all bad. At the risk of boring you here is the twin pulley system I have.

[alan.barker]

+1
Imho the ACR17 is rated correct and that's why Lotus fitted it to later +2 Elans.
Alan

[Bud English]

Add a pulley, save a water pump. Brilliant

[Elanman99]

I think it a myth that the alternator drive belt shortens the life of the waterpump.

Ian