Lotus Elan

accuspark distributor no start

PostPost by: checkrail » Sat Jun 27, 2020 2:30 pm

Hi, After the failure of my Ignitor module I decided to buy a Accuspark ready to fit electronic TC dizzy.
Followed the instructions after removing the old one at tdc but not a sign of life, tried slowly turning advancing & retarding. I tried a spare coil but still dead , everything looks o.k. with this new one,
the magnets fitted etc. '

I'm wondering if I have a duff one, I' ve spent hours & hours getting nowhere.

One criticism I have is that although everything is brand new the body has no identifying marks.

Any advice really appreciated Thanks John
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PostPost by: HCA » Sat Jun 27, 2020 3:43 pm

Assuming you are dead positive that the rotor is correctly positioned, and still getting zero spark, then the next candidate is the polarity of the coil. Accuspark will only work when on the negative side of the coil. If you are certain that this is the case, then it is quite possible you have one with a duff module.

You say that there are no identifying marks on the body, not a big deal providing you bought it from a reputable reseller and the code on the module is that for your car.
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PostPost by: checkrail » Sat Jun 27, 2020 6:45 pm

After all this time I now cannot get a spark from the ht lead when I earth it on the block.

When I had the Ignitor the red wire from the module connected to the + terminal on the coil, the Accuspark instructions insist if you have a ballast coil you must not connect it there use an alternative feed which I have tried.

The Ignitor was already fitted when I bought the Plus 2 from Mattys using a Lucas DLB 102 coil which is a ballast coil, this ran perfectly until I stupidly left the ignition on.

John
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PostPost by: Craven » Sat Jun 27, 2020 8:12 pm

The normal running voltage on the + terminal of a ballast coil is around 6 volts so if the ignitor red wire is connected to + terminal it will not have enough voltage to run.
Accuspark warn, ensure the + 12v needed on the red wire is from a permanent source, ie make sure it is there in the crank position.
If you have 12volts on the red wire, black wire connected to the – on the coil, then crank the engine this will give a spark between the HT lead centre of coil and engine block regardless of any timing. If it does not then probably dud ignitor.
ps. you must of course have the ignitor base plate in good electrical connection to the distributor metal work.
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PostPost by: l10tus » Mon Jun 29, 2020 5:35 pm

Check your module - if there's a hole or obvious damage to the carbon body - it's toast! (Don't ask me how I know!)

My accuspark is connected to the - negative, on the coil.

Great bit of kit, it even flashes the strobe light when manually setting the timing (The previous Ignitor wouldn't!) - when rotating the distributor by hand.

I fear if you've connected it to the positive it's a gonner.
Philip.

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PostPost by: checkrail » Tue Jun 30, 2020 8:50 am

Hi Philip, Are you running with a ballast resistor coil? I presume that you have your Accuspark connected as per their instruction diagram.

I am getting more an more confused as you say yours runs connected to the negative side of the coil.

Just having a permanent senior moment. John
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Tue Jun 30, 2020 8:58 am

Any electronic ignition system where it's still possible to "burn out" the ignition coil by inadvertently leaving the ignition switch on with the engine not running would raise serious doubts in my mind as to the rest of it's design integrity.

An electronic ignition should be designed so it's just not possible for this to happen. This safety feature is very easily incorporated in the electronics design. I've assembled quite a few DIY electronic ignition kits over the years and all of them have had this safety feature built in.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Tue Jun 30, 2020 10:45 am

2cams70 wrote:Any electronic ignition system where it's still possible to "burn out" the ignition coil by inadvertently leaving the ignition switch on with the engine not running would raise serious doubts in my mind as to the rest of it's design integrity.

An electronic ignition should be designed so it's just not possible for this to happen. This safety feature is very easily incorporated in the electronics design. I've assembled quite a few DIY electronic ignition kits over the years and all of them have had this safety feature built in.


Some of the early after market electronic ignition modules did not have a low rev cut off and thus could overheat and fail or cause the coil to overheat and fail ( less likely) . Later models typically have this low rev cutoff. Stops the overheating failures but makes static timing a challenge and can give you a starting problem if your cranking to slowly.

cheers
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PostPost by: Craven » Tue Jun 30, 2020 10:58 am

Accuspark ignitor has a fixed dwell time, I believe therefore this is a triggered time event effective equal to CB close once its over it’s over, no further current flow through the coil.
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Tue Jun 30, 2020 12:43 pm

Craven wrote:Accuspark ignitor has a fixed dwell time


That's a pretty crude system in that case if it uses a fixed dwell time and therefore effectively negates some of the benefits of an electronic system. The silicon chip kits from the 90's used dwell extension which was engine speed dependent. You also had the option of retaining the points for triggering if you wanted to - they lasted much longer when used in this way because the current they had to pass was greatly reduced. No issues with coil overheat if you left the ignition on or in setting the timing statically. You could buy a kit from Dick Smith or Jaycar and put it together yourself for the princely sum of $60 or so. They were very good and reliable.
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PostPost by: l10tus » Tue Jun 30, 2020 2:49 pm

You did replace the rotor arm didn't you?
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PostPost by: Craven » Tue Jun 30, 2020 3:01 pm

Accuspark say the dwell time chosen maintains full performance at high speed yet improves the low speed efficiency by eliminating the unnecessary current flow through the coil with long dwell time.
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Tue Jun 30, 2020 3:09 pm

Craven wrote:Accuspark say the dwell time chosen maintains full performance at high speed yet improves the low speed efficiency by eliminating the unnecessary current flow through the coil with long dwell time.


Marketing hype. They couldn't be bothered, didn't know how to or deemed it too expensive to make a proper design that fully utilizes the benefits of a programmed variable dwell time.
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PostPost by: checkrail » Tue Jun 30, 2020 6:40 pm

I wish now that I had replaced with another Ignitor instead of spending £80 on a complete distributor , at least I would have known that the wiring would have been easy.
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PostPost by: checkrail » Wed Jul 01, 2020 1:23 pm

I have now fitted my old distributor with new points rotor arm and condenser, using the cap and leads which are as new condition, given up on the Accuspark.

BUT I still have a non starter, there is no spark from the ht lead. Just fitted a new coil and have 12v at the points and coil terminals,

It's over a week and I have run out of things to try.

Thanks John
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