Lumenition ignition

[street]

Howdy all,

I'm going backwards 7 years and took off the lumenition, changed to Accuspark and then points all because the charging battery had no amp output!

I going to reinstall the lumenition tomorrow, does anyone have a picture of where you hooked up the red 12v wire, i reacall it was on starter solenoid.

Any tricks of setting the car at TDC on 1 first before installing.

Thanks

[wotsisname]

No 1 piston will be at it's highest point when at TDC or 180 degrees out. This can be seen/measured via the spark plug hole. This the datum point, any other markings, settings are referenced to this (and require the engine builder / machinist to have done their job correctly).
The crank pulley should also have a mark, usually a small dimple, which you should mark with white paint, so that it is seen with a strobe light. This should line up with markings on the front cover.
hope this helps

[wotsisname]

my electronic ignition, possibly aldon, has two wires, the red is at the +ve for the coil (non ballasted).. I guess any 12v ignition live supply is ok.. I believe the coil can be damaged eventually if on a permanent live without engine running.. Others may be able to confirm or otherwise.
Adrian

[street]

That’s what I thought, hence question wiring to starter solenoid

[Hawksfield]

Hi
All the info u need is on Lumenition website
Look it up

[sprintsoft]

Street,

Taken from the attached Lumenition technical bulletin...

"Module power connection (red wire)
It is vital that this supply to the power module is taken from a point on the vehicle that guarantees a
continuous supply. Poor choice of this connection can result in intermittent operation which is often
difficult to trace ( and can lead to users wrongly identifying a failing Optronic system as reverting to
points seems to ‘cure’ the problem)...."

Iain

[Craven]

Perfectly safe and usual to connect the red wire to the positive terminal on the coil.
If a continuous current flows in a coil, i.e. not interrupted by the contact breaker or electronic unit, the coil will overheat breaking down internal insulation.
Warning about continuous supply refers to the situation where auxiliaries like heater, radio etc. are disconnected in the start/crank position to maximise current available for the starter motor.

[mbell]

You can power of the coil but it may cause eracitic tacho behaviour, for to extra current pulse caused by the module.

[stugilmour]

To add to the description of determining TDC on cylinder one. The issue is you want #1 on compression for installation of the distributor., meaning #4 is on power stroke.

You can open the oil filler and observe the cam lobes on cylinder 4. The #4 lobes should be pointing down and towards one another for #1 to be on compression (where you want the engine positioned to set base timing). This thread perhaps describes it better...

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=10738

The exhaust lobe on #4 should be pointing towards the inlet cam and
downwards approx 45 deg
The inlet lobe on #4 should then be pointing towards the exhaust cam and
downwards approx 45 deg

Make sure you are clear which plug wire goes to #1. Remove the cap from the electronic distributor so you can see rotor position. You need the rotor pointing toward #1 when the distributor is inserted. Note it will rotate as you insert it, so it may take a couple of tries to get it ‘clocked’ correctly.

Also note the rotor turns counter clockwise when the engine is running, handy to remember which way to turn the distributor body when setting static advance. Set about 6 degrees or so of static advance to get the car started. Set timing to full advance, so with engine revving to about 3500 or so.

HTH

Stu