Lotus Elan

+2S 130 Interior Map Light Question

PostPost by: Classic-BSC » Fri Mar 30, 2018 8:50 pm

Hi Everybody,

Can somebody tell me how the interior Map Reading Light is supposed to operate
on a +2S 130?
This is the Chrome Torch like one just below the Glove Box. Don't think all +2 's had these.

Mine was disconnected before I owned the Car, and I would like to wire it back, but
can't find any information on how it was connected. Where is the On/Off Switch?

The original wiring on mine seems to have been completely removed, so I have no clues.

Looked around for a +2S 130 Users Manual which I thought would shed some light, but they
seem impossible to find (even a soft-copy) unless you want to spend silly Money on an Original on Auction.

Any Help gratefully received

Ian
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Mar 30, 2018 9:02 pm

Switch is built in to the elbow. When you unfold it, it turns on - which means it has a constant 12v going to it.

Lovely little things, I hope you get yours going.
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PostPost by: elanfan1 » Fri Mar 30, 2018 9:03 pm

Classic-BSC wrote:Hi Everybody,

Looked around for a +2S 130 Users Manual which I thought would shed some light, but they
seem impossible to find...

Ian


I see what you did there. :D

Can't help sorry but someone who can will be along soon.
Steve

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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Mar 30, 2018 9:09 pm

Map lamp is connected to the purple wire that feeds the clock and cigar lighter. According to the wiring diagram, this line is black and I think it is a special case, because it is visible on the light's elbow.. normally a black wire is ground. Other side of the lamp is grounded (through the case from the look of it, so connect a ground wire to the threaded shaft that secures it to the dash). Oh, and test it first. Might need a new bulb or something.
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PostPost by: Classic-BSC » Fri Mar 30, 2018 9:27 pm

WOW!

Wasn't expecting replies that quickly!

Thanks.
I did look at the Light, and didn't see any Switch, so I guess I must have missed it.
I will have another look in the Morning.

Finally getting round to fixing all the broken stuff. Could be a long Road, but at least she
runs, sounds great and looks good.
At least she does when she eventually starts! but that's another Story.

Sorry about the Light Pun at the end of my message.
Didn't think anybody would spot that! :-)


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PostPost by: JonB » Sat Mar 31, 2018 8:33 am

I don't think it's recognizable as a switch. The knuckle of the lamp is a universal joint of sorts, and it conducts electricity when it's not in the stowed position. I think it's an elegant design. You can test it by connecting a continuity meter to the head and tail of the lamp body. If the joint is straight (with the base at 90 degrees) it should not conduct electricity. Any other position and it should.
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PostPost by: Donels » Sat Mar 31, 2018 9:22 am

If the wiring is completely removed the insides are also probably missing, they were on mine. You can replicate something similar by using a single wire bulb holder and fabricating a metal support to hold it against the casing.
Staffordshire Vehicle Supply's were very helpful in getting something suitable.

Although it looks fairly spacious inside you actually need quite a small bulb and holder.

The lamp is always powered and lights when it's grounded through the elbow, which is insulated in most positions.
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PostPost by: DavidLB » Sat Mar 31, 2018 10:06 am

From memory there is a little ball bearing in the joint to hold it in position
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PostPost by: Classic-BSC » Sat Mar 31, 2018 11:40 am

Guys,

Thank you for your help on this.

I would never have worked out that the Lamp Knuckle itself is the Switch without your help.
I removed the Lamp this Morning for a closer look before I read the reply regarding how the switching worked!

Needless to say, I didn't find the Switch and thought maybe mine was different or non standard.
Always possible on a Lotus!

After reading the replies this Morning, I tested the Knuckle with a multimeter and sure enough it works perfectly!
Who would have guessed something so sophisticated on a Car from the 70's!

Unfortunately, as others have mentioned, mine too, has it's internals missing, but I don't see this as a Major
problem.
I have all the information now to get it back up and running.
Thanks again everybody that responded.

Ian
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PostPost by: prezoom » Sat Mar 31, 2018 3:07 pm

Be sure to fasten an earth/ground under the nut securing the lamp to the dash or fabric covered plastic finisher under the dash. Yes, the wire supplying the voltage to the lamp is black. Could be confused as an earth/ground.
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PostPost by: Harvey » Sun Apr 01, 2018 4:55 am

Somewhere I learned that this map light was sourced from Jaguar. It is a lovely little bit of elegance and one of the things that sold me on the car.

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PostPost by: Classic-BSC » Sun Apr 01, 2018 1:25 pm

My Map reading Light is now all Working! :-)

Only problems encountered along the way, were getting the Plastic Lens off the end of the Lamp Body,
and rebuilding the Internals.
I used a Workmate (Wooden Jaws) to grip the plastic Lens in the end, and twisted the Body off instead.

For the Internals, I soldered a Lead directly to the inside of the Case using a 100W Heat Gun to provide a Negative,
The Positive I soldered a Lead direct to the Positive terminal at the end, then inserted the innards from an old
LED Torch and screwed the Plastic Lens back on.

Wiring as mentioned by "JonB" is Positive from the Purple Wire next to and Feeding the Lighter Socket, and an Earth can to found pretty much next to it.
Both the Purple 12V Wire and the Earth could be accessed by existing unused Bullet Sockets so no new connections needed to be made. This is almost certainly how the Map Light was originally wired up.

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PostPost by: JonB » Sun Apr 01, 2018 1:42 pm

I bet you're loving that satisfying click it makes when you deploy it. I know I do. It is simply gorgeous.

A pity we don't have an actual use for such things these days, what with sat navs..
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PostPost by: Classic-BSC » Sun Apr 01, 2018 2:02 pm

Absolutely!

Still a useful Item to have, even with a SatNav.
There is always something that needs to be read in the Dark.

My view anyway is, if it's there, it has to work properly regardless.

Which makes my defective Clock and Ambient Temperature Sender a real Pain! :-(
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PostPost by: JonB » Sun Apr 01, 2018 6:18 pm

My clock is broken, too. Ambient sensor is OK thank gawd...
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