Alternator Conversion: ?Switched Live? Connection?

[Stevie-Heathie]

Hi All

I?m using the Burton Power alternator kit and and a WOSP dummy RB106 control box to convert my negative earth ?67 S3 from dynamo to alternator. Thanks for answering my previous question regarding the solenoid.

Loving the beefy Burton bracket and added lightness of the Nippon Denso 40A alternator.

My question is where I should take the 12V ignition-switched feed from? This is required to power the regulator which is now integral to the alternator (previously it was in the control box)?

I presume it?s one of the connections to the old control box, but which one?

Marked up installation instructions attached

Thanks in advance, as ever.

Best
Steve

[Stevie-Heathie]

(If I had to guess I?d say it?s the black wire at the E terminal on the original regulator box)

[oldelanman]

My question is where I should take the 12V ignition-switched feed from? This is required to power the regulator which is now integral to the alternator (previously it was in the control box)?

I presume it?s one of the connections to the old control box, but which one?

(If I had to guess I?d say it?s the black wire at the E terminal on the original regulator box)

The black wire on the control box is Earth (terminal E).
Your fuse box should be switched live. One fuse is only live when the ignition switch is in the RUN position .... that's the one you want to take your feed from ..... the other is live with ignition switch in either RUN or AUX positions.
Looking at the wiring diagram I think it's the fuse with the white wire in and green out you need but I recommend you check that out with a multimeter or test bulb before you connect it up.
Hopefully someone else will be along in a minute to confirm.

[Stevie-Heathie]

Thanks oldElanman, good to know my electrical instincts are still abysmal .

I?ve never really had much to do with my fuse box, apart from be a little bit scared of it. The wiring diagram makes it look like it should be lovely and simple: 2 fuses, each with one wire at one end and two at the other (so a total of 6 wires). Whereas in reality mine has 11 wires connected. (See photos)

So I?ve never messed with it - left it well alone!

That said, if it?s a question of working out which of the two fuses is switched live and which isn?t then even I should be able to to do that . . .

If someone else could possibly confirm please, that would make me feel better.

Best
Steve

[1owner69Elan]

You may find the instructions below helpful from Dave Bean:

[Stevie-Heathie]

Thanks oneowner69elan, yes that is very helpful. I?ll run a new wire from the new alternator to the appropriate connection on the fuse box.

Dave Bean and the American service culture to the rescue!

Best
Steve

[Craven]

The switched 12 volts via the ignition switch is the WHITE wire connected to the fuse box.
The 12volt supply into the ignition is via one of the two fat Brown/Blue wires joined together at the old control box, the other is the un-fused supply to the main light switch.

[billwill]

The field circuit of an alternator is normally fed THROUGH the ignition warning light in the dashboard. (in the tacho ? )

This ensures that it has 12v across the bulb when you switch on but the engine is not yet running, then when the engine starts and as the voltage builds up from the alternator it balances out the volts from the coil and the bulb goes out.

[Elan45]

On a British car, BLACK is always ground or earth.

Roger

[Stevie-Heathie]

Just closing the loop by saying thank you very much - I?m up and running with my new alternator now.

Best
Steve