Lotus Elan

Electronic Voltage Regulator

PostPost by: danielmo » Wed Nov 15, 2017 2:53 am

Has anyone tried using one of the electronic voltage regulators that are now available? Just wondering how they hold up.
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PostPost by: vxah » Wed Nov 15, 2017 8:45 am

I bought one from a well known auction site for my +2.. Some months later I ran out of fuel even though the gauge was reading.. The ground leg had fallen off the transistor due to solder flux corrosion inside the housing! Then I replaced it with a Spyder design unit, no problem now. Just bought another one for the Elan project!
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PostPost by: Chancer » Wed Nov 15, 2017 9:27 am

d?cades ago I made one from a handfull of discrete components soldered onto vero-board, forgotten more than I know on the subject but it was an LM31 something voltage regulator chip.

The whole thing was small enough to fit Inside the existing casing for the bi-metallic unit and never gave any problems.

If the aftermarket ones are expensive have a go yourself, its a very simple circuit and an easy beginners project.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Nov 15, 2017 10:01 am

That sounds like a good idea.
On my Sprint i have a Generater and Voltage Control box. Sometimes i hear a lot of clicks from the Voltage Control and i wonder if i should change it.
If an Electronic Voltage Regulator can fit inside the original box and it's an easy job why not.
Alan
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Wed Nov 15, 2017 10:20 am

I fitted the L7810 voltage regulator chip inside the old box with no real difficulty, just the usual struggling. The `10` is the voltage. Current rating is 1 amp. It needs two capacitors across the input and output, but I cannot remember the value just now.
I will look back in my records later or I am sure Billwill will know if he is there.
The regulators are on ebay for about ?2.00 each.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
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PostPost by: Chancer » Wed Nov 15, 2017 11:16 am

My reply was concerning the instrument voltage regulator, if the question was regarding the dynamo current/voltage regulator there would be a lot more room for the circuitry, still probably a basic circuit but with high current switching components, good heat sinking would be essential.
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PostPost by: danielmo » Wed Nov 15, 2017 1:40 pm

I'm referring to the one for the generator that is in the engine compartment.
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PostPost by: Craven » Wed Nov 15, 2017 2:11 pm

Nice little DIY project if you feel the urge.
https://ludens.cl/Electron/dynareg/dynareg.htm
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Nov 15, 2017 3:48 pm

I think "Clover Systems" make one to replace Lucas RB340 for about 165$
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PostPost by: danielmo » Wed Nov 15, 2017 3:56 pm

www.bpnorthwest.com have an electronic one for US$99 from Lucas.

Is the voltage regulator still needed if you go with an alternator conversion?
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Nov 15, 2017 4:26 pm

The one for 99$ is screw terminals and not spade so for earlier cars very nice
Alan
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Wed Nov 15, 2017 4:40 pm

danielmo wrote:
Is the voltage regulator still needed if you go with an alternator conversion?


Most likely not. The good conversions use Japanese alternators, like Nippodenso, that have
the regulator built in.
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Wed Nov 15, 2017 5:15 pm

Oh!, I didn`t think of that. Mine is for the 10 volt instrument regulator of course.
Eric in Burnley
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