Lotus Elan

leaking headlight vacuum.

PostPost by: Hongokongo » Wed Mar 25, 2015 8:53 pm

What is the best way/sequence to look for a leak in the light system?
Thanks
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Wed Mar 25, 2015 9:23 pm

I would eliminate the switch first, as that is likely the problem. The next most likely is probably the servo. Lastly, I would eliminate the frame, because you really don't want it to be that. I used just a section of oversized tubing to connect the two sections each time. Good Luck. Dan
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PostPost by: Geoffers71 » Wed Mar 25, 2015 9:36 pm

I used a length of pipe to listen for the "hiss" at each joint of the system in turn. Found the leak almost straight away at the very first joint just after the switch. Good luck!
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Wed Mar 25, 2015 11:41 pm

Take the switch out of the equation by disconnecting the hoses at the switch, then connect them together.
My car, a fail safe system, the lights stayed down for weeks after I did this so it pointed to the problem being
the switch.

You can simulate the one way valve with a vise grip on the hose.
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PostPost by: gus » Wed Mar 25, 2015 11:49 pm

just tear all that crap out and replace it with a solenoid and a good check valve.

If it still leaks order a new chassis............................
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Thu Mar 26, 2015 10:07 am

i would first remove the "T" connected to chassis. Join the 2 peices of plastic tube with striaght piece of rubber tube.
Start engine and try system to see if there is a change. No change means chassis is good.
Fit new non return valve at manifold.
If still leak remove headlamp vacuum units and low pressure test in bucket of water for bubles. Sometimes the bottom of these rust and can be repaired with grp matt/tissue and resin.
That's what i have done in the past,
good luck
Alan
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PostPost by: ftsoft » Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:38 am

I bypassed the chassis years ago and the pods stay up even under acceleration and in normal driving, so I wouldn't replace it. I used a might vac to test all of the components. My biggest leak was a rusted pod.

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:46 am

hi Frank,
i think in USA you have the failsaft system so the headlamps will always stay up.
With failsafe the problem is keeping them down :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Fri Mar 27, 2015 12:14 pm

alan.barker wrote:hi Frank i think in USA you have the failsaft system so the headlamps will always stay up.
With failsafe the problem is keeping them down :mrgreen: Alan


Frank has an S2 listed on his profile and I dont believe S2's ever had a failsafe system even in the USA :wink:
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:35 pm

Brian,
i saw his location USA, that's all.

Alan
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Fri Mar 27, 2015 2:52 pm

Has anyone figured a good way to make the switch seal better? I have taken it apart a number of times, lubricated it, then put it back together, wishing there was some way to bolt it together tightly. Thanks, Dan
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PostPost by: prezoom » Fri Mar 27, 2015 4:28 pm

Dan,
I made a couple of "U" shaped clamps, secured with a flat bar and a couple of screws, to fit over the switch. Had the same problem. In addition to providing some rubber lube, I draw filed the portion of the switch where the tubes enter. I found on mine, it was anything but flat. Also carefully sanded the rubber block to make sure it was flat as well. Then I added a small piece of rubber between the bend in the spring and the rubber block to increase the tension between the rubber block and the bottom of the switch. No more leaks and the light will stay up for several days before sagging, when the engine is off.
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