leaking headlight vacuum.
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What is the best way/sequence to look for a leak in the light system?
Thanks
Thanks
- Hongokongo
- Second Gear
- Posts: 79
- Joined: 07 Jan 2013
I would eliminate the switch first, as that is likely the problem. The next most likely is probably the servo. Lastly, I would eliminate the frame, because you really don't want it to be that. I used just a section of oversized tubing to connect the two sections each time. Good Luck. Dan
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collins_dan - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 09 Jan 2006
I used a length of pipe to listen for the "hiss" at each joint of the system in turn. Found the leak almost straight away at the very first joint just after the switch. Good luck!
1965 Elan S2 (26/4726)
2002 Elise S2 (now sold )
1970 Scimitar GTE
"The older I get the better I was !"
2002 Elise S2 (now sold )
1970 Scimitar GTE
"The older I get the better I was !"
- Geoffers71
- Third Gear
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- Joined: 06 Feb 2014
Take the switch out of the equation by disconnecting the hoses at the switch, then connect them together.
My car, a fail safe system, the lights stayed down for weeks after I did this so it pointed to the problem being
the switch.
You can simulate the one way valve with a vise grip on the hose.
My car, a fail safe system, the lights stayed down for weeks after I did this so it pointed to the problem being
the switch.
You can simulate the one way valve with a vise grip on the hose.
Greg Z
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
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gjz30075 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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i would first remove the "T" connected to chassis. Join the 2 peices of plastic tube with striaght piece of rubber tube.
Start engine and try system to see if there is a change. No change means chassis is good.
Fit new non return valve at manifold.
If still leak remove headlamp vacuum units and low pressure test in bucket of water for bubles. Sometimes the bottom of these rust and can be repaired with grp matt/tissue and resin.
That's what i have done in the past,
good luck
Alan
Start engine and try system to see if there is a change. No change means chassis is good.
Fit new non return valve at manifold.
If still leak remove headlamp vacuum units and low pressure test in bucket of water for bubles. Sometimes the bottom of these rust and can be repaired with grp matt/tissue and resin.
That's what i have done in the past,
good luck
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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hi Frank,
i think in USA you have the failsaft system so the headlamps will always stay up.
With failsafe the problem is keeping them down
Alan
i think in USA you have the failsaft system so the headlamps will always stay up.
With failsafe the problem is keeping them down
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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alan.barker wrote:hi Frank i think in USA you have the failsaft system so the headlamps will always stay up.
With failsafe the problem is keeping them down Alan
Frank has an S2 listed on his profile and I dont believe S2's ever had a failsafe system even in the USA
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
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types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Brian,
i saw his location USA, that's all.
Alan
i saw his location USA, that's all.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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Has anyone figured a good way to make the switch seal better? I have taken it apart a number of times, lubricated it, then put it back together, wishing there was some way to bolt it together tightly. Thanks, Dan
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collins_dan - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Dan,
I made a couple of "U" shaped clamps, secured with a flat bar and a couple of screws, to fit over the switch. Had the same problem. In addition to providing some rubber lube, I draw filed the portion of the switch where the tubes enter. I found on mine, it was anything but flat. Also carefully sanded the rubber block to make sure it was flat as well. Then I added a small piece of rubber between the bend in the spring and the rubber block to increase the tension between the rubber block and the bottom of the switch. No more leaks and the light will stay up for several days before sagging, when the engine is off.
I made a couple of "U" shaped clamps, secured with a flat bar and a couple of screws, to fit over the switch. Had the same problem. In addition to providing some rubber lube, I draw filed the portion of the switch where the tubes enter. I found on mine, it was anything but flat. Also carefully sanded the rubber block to make sure it was flat as well. Then I added a small piece of rubber between the bend in the spring and the rubber block to increase the tension between the rubber block and the bottom of the switch. No more leaks and the light will stay up for several days before sagging, when the engine is off.
Rob Walker
26-4889
50-0315N
1964 Sabra GT
1964 Elva Mk4T Coupe (awaiting restoration)
1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero, 302,AOD,9",rack and pinion,disc,etc,etc,etc
1954 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
Owning a Lotus will get you off the couch
26-4889
50-0315N
1964 Sabra GT
1964 Elva Mk4T Coupe (awaiting restoration)
1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero, 302,AOD,9",rack and pinion,disc,etc,etc,etc
1954 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
Owning a Lotus will get you off the couch
- prezoom
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