Lotus Elan

What gauge wire?

PostPost by: GHill » Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:27 pm

Hey All

Just a quick question, what gauge electrical wire should I use on a 72 plus 2s130?

Also any good suppliers?

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Gareth
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PostPost by: c42 » Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:32 pm

These guys have a very comprehensive selection.

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/category/10

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John
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PostPost by: PeterK » Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:52 pm

I've always had good service from Vehicle Wiring Products - http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu

More clues needed :D The wire gauge depends on what you're wiring. Gauge is slightly different if it's the main power feed (140/180Amp welding wire) or a sidelight (1/2 Amp).

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PostPost by: elanner » Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:07 pm

I was one of the biggest-wire-you-can-find crowd until I read this. I can't remember where it came from.

I've definitely learned to *never* use black unless you know it's directly connected to ground. As we all know, there's always some black wire hanging around looking hopeful when we're trying to find something for a quick fix. ;-)

Nick

Wire-Gauge-Table.pdf
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PostPost by: GHill » Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:21 pm

Thanks to the answers above I've had a quick look and it's a great websites and a great table, although I can't help but wonder why it can't be more simple ;-)
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PostPost by: GHill » Sat Nov 08, 2014 6:00 pm

Next question

These wires go to the alternator you can see that the large spade connector is very bad. First question, do I need a special connector for the alternator and second question, will soldering a new spade connector on be better than crimping one on?


image.jpg and
Alternator plug


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Gareth
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PostPost by: GHill » Sat Nov 08, 2014 6:14 pm

image.jpg and


image.jpg and




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PostPost by: bob_rich » Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:32 pm

Hi Gareth

Generally with a new connector and a wire in good condition crimping is a better option. BUT this only applies to a well made crimp. Use a tool that takes the correct crimp and has a ratchet mechanism that controls the closing force - - that means the connection cannot be "under-crimped".

Soldering is OK but make sure the copper wire and the connector are clean. OK if using new wire and a new connector. Avoid aggressive fluxes that tend to be used with plumbing and sheet metal work. excess heat and too much solder can stiffen up the wire and make it difficult to bend close to the terminal and more prone to break.

Depending on how much work U R doing a multi- purpose ratchet style crimp tool is well worth the investment. For really big leads battery main feed, engine earth and starter motor then I take the tag and the wire to the local electrician and generally they will crimp them 4 U using a high power hydraulic or pneumatic tool - it is so simple 4 them that they very rarely charge more than a price of a pint.

hope this helps

best of luck

Bob
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PostPost by: GHill » Sun Nov 09, 2014 7:47 am

Cheers Bob
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PostPost by: PeterK » Sun Nov 09, 2014 11:29 am

Both of the wiring suppliers linked to earlier sell the special alternator connectors.

Soldering can cause brittleness and fracture / failure. So as the alternator is subject to vibration, I would only crimp.
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PostPost by: GHill » Sun Nov 23, 2014 4:04 pm

Hi All

Bought the right bits and replaced the part - thanks for the supplier advice was very good!

image.jpg and
Alternator connector replaced


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