Lotus Elan

rvi to rvc tacho

PostPost by: Ennva » Wed May 07, 2014 12:36 pm

Further to my other posts, has anyone converted their RVI to RVC using the conversion kit from Spydia? on fleabay including the setting of claibration.

many thanks
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PostPost by: gherlt » Wed May 07, 2014 1:36 pm

Hello,
I have done so, very smooth, very helpful and very communicative.
Seen afterwards, I would strongly suggest to use the fitting service.
Many things can go wrong.
My bezel needed a strong word to go off (could easily have broken the glass),
the dial face screws did not move a mm, I finally got it mounted without unscrewing the dials face
(when you cut the cables, just let enough cable for soldering easily).

At calibration, please follow instruction on the word. Small white fumes are bad news, I can assure you.

Later depending on your wiring you need to change some cables (or as Chris suggests, pass new ones, I need to pass one cable only).

And depending on your ingnition you need to soldier one of three resistance in between (delivered with the package). And here are the final tips:
- if you are not comfortable soldering, the resistances today are soooo fine, I had my problems. My electronics shop suggest buying some with more "Watts" = thicker cabling.
- If you don't want to mess around with soldering, try, unsoldering, etc, use a potentiometer, 100K.This has thick pins to solder easily, and you adjust "on the fly". Later I could make a picture if you wish.

Final word: works like a treat. But you think all is connected, for trying the rev counter in the car, needle does not move. Do not desesperate. *Everything* must have a good connection, or it won't move.

Regards

Guillermo
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1969 S4 FHC (final interior stuff)
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PostPost by: pharriso » Wed May 07, 2014 2:51 pm

Yes I have, do a search here on Spiyda & you will find my recommendations. Great product, great tech support!

I needed to use the supplied 100 Ohm resistor in series with the Tacho & put it inside the Tacho case.
Phil Harrison
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PostPost by: elangtv2000 » Wed May 07, 2014 7:25 pm

Hi Phil,
Mine didn't come with resistors or recommendations or alerts for same. What condition did you observe that indicated the need to install the 100 Ohm?
Cheers,
Greg
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PostPost by: pharriso » Wed May 07, 2014 7:56 pm

elangtv2000 wrote:Hi Phil,
Mine didn't come with resistors or recommendations or alerts for same. What condition did you observe that indicated the need to install the 100 Ohm?
Cheers,
Greg


The Tacho needle did not move without it. When I'm home again I'll see if I can find the instruction sheet on that & post it.
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PostPost by: elangtv2000 » Wed May 07, 2014 10:42 pm

Thanks, Phil,
Greg
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PostPost by: gherlt » Thu May 08, 2014 9:00 am

Please find attached scanned instructions

Spyida Instructions 1.jpg and

Spyida Instructions 2.jpg and

Spyida Instructions 3.jpg and
1964 S1 (engine ready, awainting body paint)
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PostPost by: pharriso » Thu May 08, 2014 10:29 am

Thanks for posting, that resistor was 100 KOhms, not just 100 Ohms.
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PostPost by: miked » Thu May 08, 2014 2:42 pm

Just had mine done but not fitted yet. Sent on Monday, back on Friday. Had it cleaned and he fitted new electronics. Real nice guy. Great customer help and communication. I have the 3 resistors supplied.
Mike :)
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PostPost by: mark030358 » Sun May 11, 2014 3:50 am

I have used speedy cables twice. Each time perfect with no hassle or problem.

Cheers
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PostPost by: spiyda » Tue Oct 28, 2014 4:31 pm

Hi Folks,

just thought I'd say hello and thanks for all the positive comments regarding the tachometer conversion.

During the spring I updated the design. I kept the same basic circuit as it seems to work well but made a few improvements.

a) changed to mainly surface mount components. (Not just to make assembly quicker, but to to make space for more components. To do this I invested in automated machinery to place the components and it took a while to get it all up and running )
b) added protection for high and reversed voltage power supply
c) did away with the need for external resistors by including them on the board
d) increased the sensitivity to the calibration cable input.

so if you order one and it has no external resistors in the package, you will now know why !

Chris from Spiyda Design.

ps I'll be at the UK Classic Car Show at the NEC in November 2014 - stand TV122
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PostPost by: pereirac » Sun Nov 23, 2014 8:42 pm

Bought a kit from Chris at the NEC the other week. Very easy to fit, especially after the demonstration on his stand. Now all I have to do is power up the tacho and calibrate it. :D

Thanks Chris, hopefully everything will work.. If not I will get back to you ..

Carl
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