Nippon Denso Alternators Etc.

[bdea]

Could someone please post the model number,make and car application for alternators that would fit our Elans. Any specific info on the Bean and Jae Alternators? Many Thanks P.S. I have read past posts butcould not find exact model numbers.

[steve]

i have a tiny dahatsu dommino alternator ,call me if you need any more info 01606 836354

[spald04417]

I purchased a kit from RD Enterprises which included everything (including complete instillation instructions).

[bdea]

Hi: I was the person who asked about the bracket for the Alternator Conversion.

The cost of the Alternator Kit by Tingles, Little British Car Co. and Gustafson Machine was actually cheaper than sourcing out the parts separately.

What I found:
Remanufactered Nippondenso Alternators cost between $70-$133 + core charge of $0-$85. These units fit Suzuki Samurai and Sidekicks 1987-89 and Chevy Sprints 1987-1991. These come with a single groove pulley.

Breakdown: New Nippondenso alternator -$160
Fabricated Bracket - $50
Tensioner arm - $35
Machined pulley - $15
Wiring - $10
Connectors - $ 5
________

$275 New Conversion Kit

Advantage - All parts are new and will fit, guarranteed with one year warranty.

- These nice people will give you a discount if you buy a package deal,
Aternator Kit and Gear Reduction Starter for $400 + Shipping, No Tax!

PS : Has anyone who has install the Alternator Kit give me the Gates Toothed V Belt Number or Size.

Thanks for all the wonderful information everyone has contributed to these forums, Brad
1969 S4

[pereirac]

Do you have to modify the gear on the flywheel to fix an alternative alternator or is it a straight swap?

[richboyd]

You can use your original crank pulley and waterpump pulley, but you must get the alternator's pulley in the same plane as the waterpump and crank pulleys. I had cracked the original cast iron crank pulley and found a nice steel pulley, stock size, at Burtons for a very reasonable price.

I purchased a alternator kit for RDEnt. Beautiful workmanship (stainless bracket, rose-jointed tensioner arm, etc.). A turn-key affair. The pulley that was on the alternator (a suzuki item, I think) is a v-belt style, like the original, and aligns perfectly with the other two existing pulleys.

Or you can get fancy and replace all three pulleys with either a modern multi-grove belt system, or a square-toothed "gilmer" belt system. Both provide suprior grip to the v-belt, esp the gilmer belt, which will allow less side loads. Less side loads amounts to a longer lasting water pump. Dave Bean sells both style systems.

Rather than replace the belt system (I am staying with the v-belt), I replaced the troublesome water pump with a Dave Bean cartridge-style front cover/water pump.

Rich Boyd

[pereirac]

And to think I threw out a perfectly good Suzuki alternator a couple of years ago in a garage clean out because I didn't think it would be any use to me...

[Frank Howard]

I yanked a Mitsubitsi alternator out of a 1988 Mazda 323. I fabricated a bracket and an adjustment arm. The pulley that came with the alternator matches the ones already on the crank and water pump. One of the best upgrades I ever did.

Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minneapolis

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Hi,
I know this subject is a bit old but maybe some of you guys can help me. I used a Nippon Denso 80A alternator (from a Toyota) during the Zetec conversion of my S4. Mechanically fine, charging super, but the ignition light would not go out. I've been running with this warning light dissconected ever since. Does anybody know how to get the warning light to operate correctly because this is very useful for immediately detecting a lost/broken fan belt. (I think the problem has something to do with diodes & or regulating system that are/is incorporated into the alternator, afraid I'm not too clever with electrics)
John

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Come on all you bright sparks out there, surely one of you can point me in the right direction in order to get my ignition light function back to the way it should be.
Has nobody fitted a modern alternator to an Elan & been confronted with the same problem?
I really can't work this one out on my own.
John

[lotus026]

Well, I seem to have done the same alternator conversion on my Elan; used a Nippondenso one from a Toyota pickup & fabricated a bracket to mount it; never had any problems with the warning light though - I used the plug and as much wire as I could yank out of the donor vehicle (just found the right truck, actually used a remanufactured alternator), then got a copy of the truck wiring diagram. Sat down with it and one from a early 70's Elan (used an alt.) and puzzled out what needed to change on mine to get it wired properly - if you can't figure it out, drop me an e-mail and I'll send you what I came up with; I know I ammended my wiring diagram to reflect the changes.
Dave
[email protected]

[prloz]

Hi John,
Does the ignition light go out when you remove the alternator drive belt ?
Regards,
Peter.

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Hi Peter,
I've not tried that, but will do as soon as I get my car out of it's Winter wrapping, we're still up to our necks in snow down here in Bavaria.
If the lamp does go out when the alternater is not being driven what will that mean & what would be the remedy?
Thanks for your interest
John.

[M100]

<!--QuoteBegin-D.J.Pelly+Jan 14 2005, 11:26 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (D.J.Pelly @ Jan 14 2005, 11:26 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> I used a Nippon Denso 80A alternator (from a Toyota) during the Zetec conversion of my S4. Mechanically fine, charging super, but the ignition light would not go out. I've been running with this warning light dissconected ever since. Does anybody know how to get the warning light to operate correctly because this is very useful for immediately detecting a lost/broken fan belt.
[/quote]
Can you describe the connector on the alternator?

(besides the main output bolted cable one)

[prloz]

Hi John,
Wanted to verify your ignition lamp is functioning the opposite of what you would
normally expect, hence the question regarding removing the alternator drive belt.
Typical alternator wiring has the charge status output from the alternator connectig
to one side of the ignition lamp - the brown/yellow wire.
The other side of the ignition lamp - the white wire- connects to the 12v. feed on
the ignition switch as per original.
Difficult to check if your car is 'winter wrapped'.
Meanwhile, can you post a sketch of your alternator wiring on the forum ?
Regards,
Peter.