Speedometer Rebuild

PostPost by: William2 » Mon Oct 14, 2013 4:16 pm

I am cannabilising 2 speedometers to make a good one for an S4 Elan. Can anyone advise on whether it is best to use a bit of grease or oil on the nylon worm gear drive? Also, is there a particular method in removing the speedo head assembly from the case? I have gently tapped out the pin holding the zero odometer extension adjuster and removed this but it still seems difficult to extract the head??
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Mon Oct 14, 2013 7:07 pm

Do you have these documents / links? Pretty comprehensive stuff that may help. Sorry, I ended up sending both my tach and speedo off for repair, so not sure on your specific questions.

http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/PDF/speedo.pdf

http://www.74tr6.com/gauges.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoTkZGleYbM

http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/dash/dash_1.htm

HTH

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PostPost by: fasterbyelan » Thu Feb 09, 2017 2:02 pm

stugilmour wrote:Do you have these documents / links? Pretty comprehensive stuff that may help. Sorry, I ended up sending both my tach and speedo off for repair, so not sure on your specific questions.

http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/PDF/speedo.pdf

http://www.74tr6.com/gauges.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoTkZGleYbM

http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/dash/dash_1.htm

HTH

Stu


Thanks for the links (the first one no longer works though). After removing the innards of my Elan Speedo to refurb the case, several parts were loose :shock: :shock: The last of your links provided the answer to my thankfully short lived dilemma!

Does anyone have any original drawings of the gauges they could spare?
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PostPost by: ElanDNA » Thu Feb 09, 2017 3:28 pm

Does anyone have any original drawings of the gauges they could spare?[/quote]

Hello
speedo.pdf
you find it here :http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/dash/dash_1.htm ST-210
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need-pull..jpg and
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calibr.jpg and
calibration
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Thu Feb 09, 2017 3:56 pm

William
To extract the speedo innards, I had to remove the pointer and dial first.
Two levers removed the pointer easily, being careful to protect the dial surface. An extractor as in the photo would be good but I had no trouble.
The dial is held in place just with the two screws near the centre.
The works are held in the case by the two screws on the back.
I do not know about lubrication.
Best of luck
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PostPost by: fasterbyelan » Thu Feb 09, 2017 4:05 pm

Thank you for your reply. Need to get stuck in now!

If anyone needs to replace the bezels/glass/seals on their gauges I have received good service from here - http://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/bezels-glass--seals-for-smiths--lucas--jaeger-gauges-68-c.asp.
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PostPost by: elanner » Thu Feb 09, 2017 4:34 pm

William,

I never figured out how to get the mechanism out of the case. The odo zero pin wouldn't clear the bottom of the case before the top of the mechanism hit the top of case. In the end I decided I was likely to break it, so put it back together.

If you find the trick to it please describe it here!

Nick
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PostPost by: ElanDNA » Thu Feb 09, 2017 5:29 pm

elanner wrote:William,

I never figured out how to get the mechanism out of the case. The odo zero pin wouldn't clear the bottom of the case before the top of the mechanism hit the top of case. In the end I decided I was likely to break it, so put it back together.

If you find the trick to it please describe it here!

Nick


Hello

no comment:
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p050310_13.25.jpg and
p050310_09.53.jpg and
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PostPost by: fasterbyelan » Thu Feb 09, 2017 5:32 pm

Nice detail!
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PostPost by: elanner » Thu Feb 09, 2017 6:16 pm

"don't worry, feel happy"

Ha! An unlikely outcome, I fear. At least one of those tiny pieces would have leaped across the room and be hiding somewhere on the floor. ;-)
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PostPost by: USA64 » Mon Oct 12, 2020 9:09 pm

I never figured out how to get the mechanism out of the case. The odo zero pin wouldn't clear the bottom of the case before the top of the mechanism hit the top of case. In the end I decided I was likely to break it, so put it back together.

If you find the trick to it please describe it here!


I just found the trick on u tube. There is a pin in the rubber on the shaft of the trip reset, near the case end. I got it out by starting it with a small screwdriver and then a small pointed tool until I could grip it with pliers. It's very small don't lose it! With the knob end off, the remaining part, about a half inch, clears the case easily.
I'm now looking for how to clean and lube the mechanism without taking it apart. Like you I don't feel lucky!
We are supposed to be having fun, are we not?
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Tue Oct 13, 2020 7:35 am

Whatever you do don't use normal automotive Lithium based grease on Nylon gears. Over time it will cause the plastic to deteriorate. Use something that's compatible with plastics - eg. Silicon based or special grease for plastic.

https://www.electrolube.com.au/products ... nd_grease/
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PostPost by: USA64 » Tue Oct 13, 2020 10:36 pm

What would be a good thing to clean it with assuming I don't take the works apart?
We are supposed to be having fun, are we not?
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Tue Oct 13, 2020 11:01 pm

2cams70 wrote:Whatever you do don't use normal automotive Lithium based grease on Nylon gears. Over time it will cause the plastic to deteriorate. Use something that's compatible with plastics - eg. Silicon based or special grease for plastic.

https://www.electrolube.com.au/products ... nd_grease/



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PostPost by: USA64 » Wed Oct 14, 2020 12:28 am

How different is Vaseline?


Still petroleum based.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum_jelly
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