23d, 25d or 43d for electronic ignition. Doesn't matter?

[Johnfm]

Does it matter which of these I buy to replace my existing 23d (i think) points dizzy if it has electronic ignition?

I want to order the new bits tomorrow - but not sure which to order.

[AHM]

What is wrong with the old distributor? It is probably worth as much or more than the new one.

Why not just buy the electronic bits for the old one?

[Johnfm]

I expect, if the rest of the car is an indication, the old distributor will be worn, old and needing some tlc.

I don't mind retaining it - but the cost of electronic internal, new rotor and cap is probably more than a replacement distributor.

[AHM]

so buy the 23D one and take the bits off.

New is not always better. Cheaper is often more expensive.

The 23D fits under the inlet better than the 43D I cant remember if it is clearance or cap design, but my 23d is easy enough to get on/off and the 43D is a .... even after modification

[StressCraxx]

The 23D can be refurbished if needed. A good set of points and condenser are good to 7000 RPM. I still use points in my Formula Ford and my Elan. I had the Crane opto-electronic system on my Elan for several years. It was not worth keeping despite the lifetime warranty because of getting stranded multiple times.

The important things to check are the advance curve and the timing scatter. It can be done with a timing light and a dwell/tachometer and a note book.
The timing curve is in the shop manual for comparison.

Advance curve is governed by the springs and flyweights. Scatter is a function of the clearance between the drive gear and the bottom of the housing, if I recall. If the shaft is loose in the housing, the dwell may be inconsistent but its not easy to measure with most meters. Electronic ignition will not solve timing scatter.

A competent shop with a distributor machine can check your dizzy and likely rebuild it for you. If you want to replace the points and condenser with aftermarket electronics, you can, but most are not modern OEM quality and suffer from random failure, including the magnets falling out of the rotor disc(pertronix).

[billwill]

There are various different levels of electronic ignition, most of the simpler ones just produce better sparks and rely on the distributor for the advance curve.

But as I discovered recently from this forum, you can go right up to full engine management systems that don't need a distributor at all.


If your distributor is knackered you might want to consider a 123ignition system in which the whole electronic ignition stuff is built into a replacement distributor.

http://www.123ignition.nl/

Don't buy in haste because you want to order tomorrow, work out what you really want to do first. If you have to get a new 25D tht is already much of the money towards a 123ignition.

http://www.123ignition.nl/id/50.html

Note: I don't have one myself, but I sort of lust after one.



At least one member on this forum has one, I think.

[promotor]

Whichever you decide to use/buy I would only recommend using original Lucas distributors with Lucas cast into the bodies, unless going to the 123 system where I believe they only come with their own distributor body and they seem to be good quality.

Most of the new distributors available look like Lucas ones but are just cheap reproductions. A good condition original one is better than a new reproduction in my opinion.

[Johnfm]

Cheers

That was my concern - a cheap distributor from China is probably just a bad idea.

I will check my exisiting, install electrionic ignition, set up timing etc and see how it goes.