TC distributor fitting

[b-havers]

Gents,
I've again started the work to try to start my Elan +2S.

Engin was rebuild a couple of years back, and I haven't been able to make it run since then.
That is; it started (just..) a few times, but didn't run even, and hardly managed to pull itself away.
When removing the spark plugs, white smoke poured oot of cylinder no 4. Now (well, at least last year, and the tear before that...) it wont start at all.

Having had the car 'on wait' over the winter, it's now time to start the work again.

But; which way should the distributor be fitted?
Should the condenser be on the 'engine side or not, compared to the rotor? That is; it's possible to put the distributor 180 degrees wrong, so I'd like to put it correct the first time..

[ericbushby]

Hello Bjorn,
I dont know where the condenser is located as I have changed mine to electronic ignition.
However, surely the only important thing is that when No 1 piston is at top dead centre on the compression stroke insert the distributor such that the rotor points to No1 HT cable terminal in the cap. It rotates a little as it engages the drive gear so it might take a few goes.
Check that the plugs are connected in the correct firing order and then set the ignition timing.
It may be something simple and basic which you have missed.
People with a lot more experience than me will probably be along soon.
Best of luck
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE Type 45

[oldelanman]

Hi Bjorn,
Is this photo any help ?

[b-havers]

If you could remove the cap, then it'll be to a lot of help

[lotusbaz]

Hi Bjorn,

Make sure that the engine is at TDC with number 1 piston on the compression stoke.

Fit the distributer with the low tension lead next to the block and the rotor arm pointing towards the rear cap clip of the distributer.

As you fit the distributer, the rotor will turn clockwise into alignment with no 1 HT electrode ion the cap. You may have to slacken the clamp and move it until the mounting bolt fits.

Rotate the distributer body until the points just open.

Hope this helps, Baz

[ericbushby]

Hello Bjorn,
You shoud not be able to get it 180 degrees out because the cap will only fit on the distributor in one position so if the HT leads are coming out pointing towards the rear of the engine then you are already close. Then you just have to put the rotor in the correct position as described by Baz above.
Eric in Burnley

[Chancer]

I had to do this quite recently, I am quite rusty and out of touch and my memory failed me, I gaily pulled the dizzy thinking it had an offset dog drive so i wouldnt have any reassembly problems only to find that of course it is a bevel drive.

I had to dust off the cobwebs and went back to first principles but it has been probably 20 years since I regularly worked on contact breaker ignitions, thankfully the wisdom returned.

I want to add a couple of precisions to what has already been posted.

You want the points to be just opening at the static advance setting, several degrees BTDC not at TDC although the vehicle will probably fire up at TDC.

Make sure you have timed the dizzy with the points just opening not just closing and the rotor pointing to number one which is easy to do if you dont realise the correct rotation of the distributor, my memory fails me here but i think it was anto-clockwise, it was only 2 weeks ago for heavens sake!!!

Another pitfall is that you need number 1 cylinder to be at ATDC on the compression stroke before the power stroke not at TDC on the exhaust stroke before the inlet stroke or you will have some interesting flame effects from the carbs, you can either judge the exhaust stroke by turning the engine by hand with a finger over the plug hole or use my old moniker "rocking on 4 = firing on one" number 4 exhaust valve will be closing and the inlet valve opening (the overlap period) at TDC firing stroke on number 1 cylinder.

[Galwaylotus]

The distributor can be in any rotational orientation. What matters is that the rotor is pointing at number one terminal when the number one cylinder is at (or a few degrees before) TDC at the end of the compression stroke. Honestly, you could set it up on any of the cylinders but the timing marks on the pulley and front cover are for No. one.

[carrierdave]

Hi Bjorn,
The thing I did to help me was look inside the dissy cap for number one post, then with a piece of masking take on the outside of the cap, mark where the number one post is on the outside of the cap.
Put the cap back onto the dizzy and then mark the dissy on the outside. This will then give you a position to aim for when you are installing the dissy.
Make sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke of number one cylinder. Check this by looking at the position of number 4 exhaust lobe through the oil cap.

Place the dizzy part way into the block and then turn the rotor arm so it faces 9 on a clock. Then push the dizzy home ? may have to move it slightly to pick up on a tooth ? from recollection the rotor arm then rotates clockwise ? could be wrong ? cant remember. If it turns the other way then pull it back part way out, rotate the rotor arm sufficient so that when you insert it again it lines up with the mark on the dizzy casing.

This will then give you the approximate position for the dizzy. The next thing to do is set a circuit tested across the points, loosen the clap holding the dizzy and then rotate the dizzy until the points just break open/break circuit.

This should give you a starting point for static timing.

[b-havers]

Thanks guys,
It's all down to what Chancer said, getting the TDS right.
I expressed myself a bit clumsy; what I ment by the 180deg mentioned, was the difference betwin in- and out stroke.

I'll fiddel around a bit today, and see - though I have no big hope the engine will fire

[Chancer]

Honestly, you could set it up on any of the cylinders but the timing marks on the pulley and front cover are for No. one.

And number four!

I have a vague recollection that the firing order on a pre X/flow and hence twink is 1243 instead of the more common 1342 of the X/flow, the motor turns in the same direction, does the dizzy drive engage on the other side of the camshaft bevel or have I dreamt the whole thing?

There was a time when all these things were instantly recallable, I still knew the points gap although needed to check to be certain, I guess its just age and the grey cells being taken up with so called more important things like PIn numbers, passwords etc than points and ignition timing data!

[types26/36]

I have a vague recollection that the firing order on a pre X/flow and hence twink is 1243 instead of the more common 1342 of the X/flow, the motor turns in the same direction, does the dizzy drive engage on the other side of the camshaft bevel or have I dreamt the whole thing?

The firing order for both a pre X Flow and an XFlow are the same ....1243.
The TC on the other hand is 1342.
The distributor turns anti-clockwise on pre Xflow/Xflow & TC.
The distributor is driven from the engine side of the jackshaft/camshaft (nearest the pistons)

[Gray]

Hi

A quick way to see if the firing is anywhere near for any car is to remove all the spark plugs, connect number 1 to the lead, earth the plug and see if it sparks when there is compression on the cylinder by putting a finger over the plug hole. Repeat for other cylinders.

Make sure you do it safely!

Regards Gray

[Chancer]

The firing order for both a pre X Flow and an XFlow are the same ....1243.
The TC on the other hand is 1342.
The distributor turns anti-clockwise on pre Xflow/Xflow & TC.
The distributor is driven from the engine side of the jackshaft/camshaft (nearest the pistons)

Thanks for the confirmation Brian.

[b-havers]

Hi all,
just like you to know that the car is up and running
The guy who did the rebuild visited last saturday evening, and did some magic trix to the ignition, timing and distributor settings.

Problem is it's running perfectly smooth and well up to ca 2300-2500 rpm, then it's 'out of control'

I had a look at the different jets in the carbs, and got quite a surprise.. Main jets are of different sizes, and all jets looked quite worn. So, I've ordered a new complete set of jets, and hope this will improve performance abouve 2500 rpm.

But; car is running, one big problem is solved

Next on list is adjusting/bleeding the clutch, fix brake-fluid leak and remove the non-working fog-lights before MoT.