HOW CAN THIS HAPPEN!!??

[rmd24]

Last used the car two or three days ago, all well no problems. This morning turns over but won't fire. Checked and cleaned the plugs, a bit grotty but nothing that a quick blast wouldn't put right. So checked for spark by turning over whilst resting a plug on the cam cover. No spark. Now what? I did notice that the revcounter doesn't flick when turning over which it usually does.
I've checked the connections to the coil which all appear sound but short of removing the carbs to check the distributor I'm at a loss to know what to do next. I've tried cursing but that doesn't seem to work.

Any ideas please,

Roger

[Jason1]

Any power to the coil?

If not check fuse and ign switch.

What points have you got? Electronic? Power to electronic module?

Jason

[rmd24]

Thanks Jason. I don't really know how to check if there is power to the coil. I have checked the fuses and they seem O.K.
Standard ignition system.

[ardee_selby]

Roger,

Something to eliminate first...have you an anti-theft switch that you know about?

(P.S. Don't know if they're a "normal" S4 (as opposed to a Sprint) fitment, but maybe someone had added one?)

Cheers - Richard

[RotoFlexible]

Thanks Jason. I don't really know how to check if there is power to the coil. I have checked the fuses and they seem O.K.
Standard ignition system.

You can do a lot of troubleshooting with a simple 12v test light with two leads. Clip one lead to a ground (earth) point and the other to the terminal of the coil with the white wire (the other wire goes to the distributor). When you turn on the ignition the light should illuminate (possibly dimly if you have a ballast resistor in the ignition circuit?). No light means no power to the coil, and you will need to backtrack through the system to find out why. The ignition switch is a likely culprit. I don't think there are any fuses in the ignition circuit on an S4 (certainly not on an S2).

If you are getting power to the coil, then check the points. One way to do this is to disconnect the distributor-side wire from the coil, leave one test lead on the white-wire side terminal, and connect the other test lead to the distributor-side wire. Turn on the ignition and turn over the engine. The light should flash on and off as the points close and open.

Hope this helps, and good luck!

[rmd24]

Richard,

Got it in one!
Funnily enough I stumbled across that before reading your post. I was checking the workshop manual concerning the coil and it said check that the anti-theft switch is fully on or fully off. Mine had got knocked almost into the on position .This cut off the supply to the coil but not being fully in the on position the horn was not sounding when I attempted to start it . Moved switch to "off" and Hey Presto!
Didn't fancy removing the carbs to check the dissie.

Ceers,

Roger.

[rmd24]

Andrew, thanks for the reply. As you can see from my last post the solution was very simple!

Roger.

[ardee_selby]

I've tried cursing but that doesn't seem to work. Any ideas please,
Roger

Phew! So glad it was the pesky switch.

If it hadn't been that I'd have been at a loss...except to ask what language you were cursing in and were you shouting loud enough!

(Or failing that...did you use the right sort of branch! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8YFxuKrJBI)

Salut - Richard

[billwill]

Simple electric test meters are remarkably cheap nowadays in say Maplins, though you may not have anywhere handy in France.

You really ought to get one and familiarise yourself with testing Voltage and Current and continuity (Ohms).

[richardcox_lotus]

One thing that should happen when the antitheft switch is activated is that the horn should sound when the ignition is turned on.

Interesting that yours didn't.

Regards
Richard

[alan.barker]

Hi Roger,
if you ever need to check or change the points you don't need to remove the carbs. you set the engine at 10 degrees btdc. remove dissy cap to check it is firing on n?1 cylinder. if not turn engine 1 turn to 10 degrees btdc again. now engine is firing on n?1 cylinder. Remove Lt lead.Undo clamp on dissy and remove, leaving carbs in place 7/16" or 11mm spanner. Change points and of course condenser, gap 0.014". Put back in place so points are just starting to open with rotor arm aligned with contact for n?1 cylinder. replace dissy cap and ht leads. Replace Lt lead, coil to dissy. Job done. 1 hour
Alan B

[twincamman]

Hook up a spark plug to number one plug and set the plug on the valve cover.I found a plug attachment that connects to the plug nd lights up ....makes diagnosis a snap
...you can remove the distribution cap in situ ' also a snap for a quick check...or just grab the plug wire and cure your irregular heart beat too ......ed

[rmd24]

[quote="richardcox_lotus"]One thing that should happen when the antitheft switch is activated is that the horn should sound when the ignition is turned on.

Interesting that yours didn't.

Richard,
What had happened was that the switch was not fully in the "on" position so although it cut off power to the coil it didn't cause the horn to sound. When I pushed it fully "on" the horn did indeed sound.

Thanks everybody for helpful tips.

Regards,

Roger.