Horn Push brush/wiring

PostPost by: Steve G » Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:30 am

Hello

I went to the Beaulieu Autojumble on Saturday and trawled the 2000+ stalls looking for a horn push to go on my new TTR steering wheel. I found one, in black, and very pleased to get it for ?25. It was not perfect condition, but very respectable and at the price I couldn't refuse. It was only when fitting it I realised I'm missing the connection between the brass terminal on the back of the horn push and the brass ring on the steering column.

I fashioned one from a spring loaded brass rod that came with the old aftermarket steering wheel and some brake pipe but it was making a permanent connection. I also noticed that the steering wheel itself was closing the circuit by touching the brass ring, I insulated the back of the steering wheel to prevent this.

Can anyone tell me what should be in place for this connection? I could only find one small reference to it in all of my manuals and it was referred to as a 'horn brush'. Also if I can either buy one new as I don't have time to hunt around for one or make one up quite easily, i.e. if anyone else has a home made one that works. The main problem seems to be insulating the connection so it doesn't touch the steering wheel before it gets to the horn push terminal.

The good news is I got the multimeter out and tested the button and the other connections and everything is working, got 11.95V at the compressor which is working now. What a great noise those air horns make!
User avatar
Steve G
Third Gear
Third Gear
 
Posts: 310
Joined: 17 Aug 2009

PostPost by: oldelanman » Mon Sep 13, 2010 9:09 am

Can anyone tell me what should be in place for this connection?


It's usually called a horn push pencil and they are widely available from the usual suspects as well as Rimmer Brothers, Canley Classics, Holden etc. They also come up on ebay quite frequently.
Attachments
Horn Push Pencil.JPG and
Roger
S4 DHC
oldelanman
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 1967
Joined: 02 Jan 2008

PostPost by: Steve G » Mon Sep 13, 2010 9:59 am

Thanks Roger, that looks like exactly what I need for the job. When you say the usual suspects, could you be more specific? I really need it yesterday as I've got to get my MOT before the Goodwood revival on Friday!

Is this the right one?
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct. ... de=020.297
User avatar
Steve G
Third Gear
Third Gear
 
Posts: 310
Joined: 17 Aug 2009

PostPost by: bcmc33 » Mon Sep 13, 2010 12:31 pm

Steve G wrote:Is this the right one?
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct. ... de=020.297

That's the one I bought and it worked fine. I say worked because it got lost (still not found) and I replaced it with a spring to get the car through the MOT last year.
As I'm now reminded of this I will buy another for the MOT due in 4 weeks.
Brian Clarke
(1972 Sprint 5 EFI)

Growing old is mandatory..........Growing up is optional
User avatar
bcmc33
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 1825
Joined: 10 Apr 2006

PostPost by: mac5777 » Mon Sep 13, 2010 3:44 pm

Hi, just as a reference, here is a picture of an original one.

Sarto
Attachments
DSC00191_2.JPG and
lotus elan 1966 S3 FHC
36/5785
LHD
User avatar
mac5777
Fourth Gear
Fourth Gear
 
Posts: 537
Joined: 05 Jul 2004

PostPost by: Steve G » Tue Sep 14, 2010 11:28 am

Thanks for the picture, I ordered the Triumph 65mm long one, ?12 inc. VAT and P&P.

Is it normal to have to insulate the back of the steering wheel? I have the TTR wheel and without insulating the back it makes a constant circuit against the brass ring. Also, if I tighten the 27mm nut around the splined steering column fully, the end of it (which protrudes a couple of mm from the face of the nut) makes contact with the brass rivet in the centre of the horn push button. It prevents the button slotting in fully too, How tight should this nut be?
User avatar
Steve G
Third Gear
Third Gear
 
Posts: 310
Joined: 17 Aug 2009

PostPost by: bcmc33 » Tue Sep 14, 2010 12:14 pm

Steve G wrote:Thanks for the picture, I ordered the Triumph 65mm long one, ?12 inc. VAT and P&P.

Is it normal to have to insulate the back of the steering wheel? I have the TTR wheel and without insulating the back it makes a constant circuit against the brass ring. Also, if I tighten the 27mm nut around the splined steering column fully, the end of it (which protrudes a couple of mm from the face of the nut) makes contact with the brass rivet in the centre of the horn push button. It prevents the button slotting in fully too, How tight should this nut be?

Steve,

I have a TTR steering wheel and when I used a spring I also used part of a plastic drinking straw to insulate from the steering wheel. If you look at the Holden picture you can see that it is insulated.
Holden must now wonder why they have sold two in 24 hours.
BTW, Rimmer and Canley are out of stock of this item.
Brian Clarke
(1972 Sprint 5 EFI)

Growing old is mandatory..........Growing up is optional
User avatar
bcmc33
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 1825
Joined: 10 Apr 2006

PostPost by: RichC » Mon Aug 29, 2016 7:42 pm

bought one of these pencil things years ago off ebay and am only just now getting round to fitting it .
I tried pushing it up from below and the hole in the steering wheel boss is too narrow for the plastic sleeve .
I wonder if the hole is tapered & the pencil has to be fitted from the top? ....
.. just happens that the steering column & wheel is out at moment and the lug from the nut cage thing is obscuring the hole from above & its a bit awkward to get the torque to undo the big nut to release the cage until it's back in the motor .
User avatar
RichC
Fourth Gear
Fourth Gear
 
Posts: 829
Joined: 28 Apr 2009

PostPost by: nmauduit » Tue Aug 30, 2016 9:00 am

RichC wrote:bought one of these pencil things years ago off ebay and am only just now getting round to fitting it .
I tried pushing it up from below and the hole in the steering wheel boss is too narrow for the plastic sleeve .
I wonder if the hole is tapered & the pencil has to be fitted from the top? ....
.. just happens that the steering column & wheel is out at moment and the lug from the nut cage thing is obscuring the hole from above & its a bit awkward to get the torque to undo the big nut to release the cage until it's back in the motor .


I would think that the most common way to fit the horn push brush is from the top.
When I worked on mine I remember having tried to fit a new shiny part, aftermarket, and it was so tight that it would not play smoothly enough. I ended up putting back the old, somewhat opaque one, and it worked since (I rarely try it out, though).
I suppose enlarging a tiny bit the hole diameter if need be would not be a dramatic alteration.
S4SE 36/8198
User avatar
nmauduit
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 2037
Joined: 02 Sep 2013

PostPost by: dgym » Wed Aug 31, 2016 3:02 am

and no the wheel should not be contacting the ring.
the whole outer column can be moved forward to correct this if you undo the mounting nuts. OR you can pull the inner column out by loosening the clamp the holds the two ends of the inner column together. Make sure you tighten it again!
36/6612
1967 S3 Coupe (left the factory in 66)
original rego PPC 8E
original owner B.M. Wetherill ..are you out there?
User avatar
dgym
Third Gear
Third Gear
 
Posts: 358
Joined: 05 Apr 2014

Total Online:

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 22 guests