alarm system

[bandjie]

Hi all, anyone got a suggestion for a good alarm system and a company to fit it?
I'm in Norfolk U.K.

[oldelanman]

Why not fit a concealed, lockable battery isolator switch in the boot ? No system, however sophisticated will stop the determined thief but having no volts will slow him down a bit ... unless of course he tows it away ! Not the answer to your question I know but just a thought.

Regards,

[gerrym]

What is your insurance company asking for? Thatcham etc.

If not I'd go for hidden kill switch.

Regards

Gerry

[bandjie]

Thanks Roger, Gerry.
It's not for the insurance, it's for my own peace of mind. I hadn't even thought of a hidden power kill switch but that is definately what I will do.

[alaric]

Hi. I need this advice too as I'm about to fit the dash wiring. Some years ago I fitted a Cobra alarm to an old car of mine. It was small with all the electronics built into the end of the siren. It had all the features that you'd need such as remote operation, central locking control, ignition disable, flashing the lights, internal ultrasonic sensors (at extra cost). It was about ?100 to buy way back then so no doubt a lot cheaper now. I was planning to take a look at the cobra website.

Sean.

[theelanman]

I have a battery isolator hidden under the dash in the bulk head.........
works a treat........

[Jason1]

Hi

Have you seen these mini trackers on Ebay? You can buy a power lead for another ?12 and hard wire it into the car.
It looks good but do not know anyone that has bought one.

The listing says it is accurate to 5 metres.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mini-Global-GPS-T ... 9720wt_939

Jason

[reb53]

I have a battery isolator right next to the battery. Take the "key" out and you wouldn't know it was there. Not so much anti theft as anti fire.

Prompted by the occasion, when having just got an MOT, I watched in amazement, and increasing alarm, as blue smoke got out of the wires and curled up from under the dash.

As I frantically disconnected the battery I resolved to find a quicker way for the next occasion. Which hasn't happened yet and I'm not complaining....

Turned out to be chaffing wires on the steering column.

Ralph.

[cliveyboy]

Killing the power to the engine is good, but unless you have an alarm to
warn the car is being tampered with it just means the thief has time to work on the car to get it going.
My suggestion is a good immmobiliser to cut various circuits. Ignition and starter motor, electric fuel pump if fitted.
This is better than just cutting the battery as I can just come along with my assortment of keys for common battery cut of switches and turn the power back on. (I would first just give the car a rock or kick the tyres as I walked past to see if there was an alarm fitted) If no alarm sounds then I can take my time. No one is likely to question me trying to start an old classic car thats a bit reluctant to fire up.
If the battery is switched on but still doesnt start its much more difficult as I might have to rewire the car. If you have a secret hidden switch it can only be in a few places as you need to reach it yourself without too much effort and there is likely to be a tell tale wire to give me a clue. But if you fit a simple alarm I will be having to do all this whilst the siren is blazing away attracting attention.
I have installed several alarms on classics. They are fairly straight forward to fit. If you fancy it being fitted professionally they are lots of companies to advise you and prices for every budget.

Clive

[Jason1]

Hi

I am not sure a modern immmobiliser would work very well on classics? I have started more cars than I care to remember with a temp peice of wire from a positive connection to the coil and a push start. With a mechanical fuel pump and no electronic control all you could cut would be the starter and coil.

I agree that a noisy alarm may scare a few hoodies off.

Jason

[davidj]

I have always thought the original built in immobiliser (on my car at least) was quite clever. With the switch in one position the ignition works. In the second position the ignition does not work when the ignition switch is turned, but the horn sounds.

The switch is hidden in the locked glove box. I have replaced my switch with a new item.

However, these cars are very insecure compared to modern motors, the ignition and door locks can be turned with a screwdriver are they are very easily hot wired. An alarm would help, but the best course of action is not leave it anywhere it can be nicked!

David

[paddy]

If you have conventional points you can make a very cheap and cheerful "immobiliser" with a concealed switch that shorts out the points (ie connects the -ve coil terminal to earth). When the switch is closed, you can't start the car, even if you run a wire directly from the battery to the coil +ve. It can be connected to the rev counter wire behind the dash (assuming you have RVC) so there is no evidence of additional wiring under the bonnet.

I don't know if a modern immobiliser does a similar thing. But, as you say, if the thief knew enough he could start it by removing all existing wires from the ignition and running two wires himself.

Paddy

[rocket]

I always use a steering wheel lock...


Ian.

[oldelanman]

The switch is hidden in the locked glove box.

Not anymore it isn't