Starter solenoid wiring

[alaric]

Hi all.

I just got a new starter solenoid and just need a bit of help with how it should be wired. I've attached a pic of the one that I've bought - the picture on the web describes it as a replacement for a Lucas 76766, 76772, 4ST, SRB325:

starter_solenoid_2.jpg (20.44 KiB) Viewed 15266 times

This one looks like the one that I have on the car - which I've now removed, and is described on the web as a replacement for Lucas 76795, 76789, 4ST, SRB335:

starter_solenoid_1.jpg (19.23 KiB) Viewed 15269 times

I've checked my original solenoid, and the terminal in the centre at the bottom in the picture is not connected to anything even when I activate the solenoid with 12V. I'm assuming that this is broken, so am trying to find out what the connection should be. The wiring in the manual's a bit unclear on the switching of the solenoid. I thought it was just a big switch for the starter and a terminal block for the battery cable.

If anyone has any info that would help it would be appreciated - what's the extra terminal for - is it switched - why does my new solenoid not have one?

Thanks in advance.

Sean.

[alan71]

It?s for the ballast resistor type coil, if you don?t have one just leave it unconnected
It?s only live while the starter is running.

Alan.

[alaric]

Thanks Alan that does make sense now. I'm going to have to start a thread on the wiring in the engine bay as it has me stumped at the moment - it's obvious what's required, but the new wiring loom that I have - which actually came with the car - doesn't seem to make sense to me.

All the best.

Sean.

[b-havers]

It seems I'll need a new starter soleniod as well; where did you buy yours ?

[neilsjuke]

The problem with new replacement looms is that some suppliers make one to cover different models so you may have extra wires and the wrong colours if they are short of stock. I have seen looms that have started of with one colour then joined half way to the back and finished with another colour that is really helpful for fault finding when the fault was the joint taped up in the loom .
Neil

[alaric]

Hi. Got mine off ebay. There are two types so you can get caught out if not careful. One has the connection through to bypass the ballast resistor, and the other does not. My car doesn't need this connection (white blue on the picture in the earlier post) so I can use either.

I bought one for a mini in then end. Here's the ebay reference number to the same item, still available: 260352214029. Solenoid ref numbers: SRB335 ADU5728

To get this solenoid to work I had to earth the mounting plate. I'm now driving a Brise starter motor with it, switching the high current feed to the motor, with the solenoid that's built in to the starter motor just connected to the high current feed from the bulkhead solenoid. Seems to work fine, and I'm more comfortable minimising the number of unfused high current wires threading through the engine.

Re the loom I found that there is an earth wire missing in the engine bay. I'll have to add wires as needed. Actually the main thing I need to do is get out there working on it for more hours... spring is here though .

All the best.

Sean.

[Jason1]

Just thought I would throw in another option:

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=42337

I have always fancied a start button under the bonnet.

Jason

[b-havers]

I've ordered one from Chris Neil, we'll se how it works out when it arrives...

[alexblack13]

Hi Guys,
The one that I (re) used has a push button on it also. Which is a 'starter button under the bonnet' Works a treat that does. It (the button) is red rubber covered. I thought they were all like that !

The new loom I used came via Sue Miller and was exactly as the book. The only 'spare wires' were for wiring up the electric rear window heater in the hardtop.There were also con's for a cigar lighter I did not need or use. I took off all the bullet push in con's and hard wired all the joints with solder and heat shrink insulating tubing then wrapped the lot in loom tape. All held in the proper clips etc. It looks like (and now is!) one continuous loom. Multi pin plug behind the dash and soldered up the rear loom also.

Good so far and more or less worked right out of the box. 1 Little mod was required to stop the blue high beam lamp from 'glowing' slightly with all the lights off. Sorted!

Spring is indeed with us by the looks.. Clocks forward in just over 2 weeks!! Brill'

Alex B....

[alaric]

My Minis had a push buttons too. A handy feature. Minisport. Cool. That's where I bought my 1400 mini engine from. That was fun. I really shouldn't be alive though; the way I used to hare around in that car. Mad. But excellent fun. I was undertaken on the motorway once. The speedo showed over 115 shortly after when I passed the offending car, with the revs well over 6k. Then I lifted off to stop it accelerating. Fantastic. That engine's now going into a Morris Minor with a T9 gearbox just down the road from me. Ah, takes me back.

All the best.

Sean.

[Oasis1]

Ok, So the picture up top is exactly what I just received also. The old one however was outfitted differently. The post to the right has the 2 tabs on the bottom on the new one . Just as shown in top picture. However ...on my old solenoid those 2 tabs on the bottom are on the post to the left? I remove dthe bolts and moved the tabs to the exact position as the old unit. Why the difference and could that be the reason my car doesnt start after installing the new solenoid?