Distributor removal

[Galwaylotus]

Is it possible/feasible to remove the distributor (23D4) from a Twink without removing the Webers?

[types26/36]

Yes, its no problem just a bit finicky.

[Galwaylotus]

Thanks, Brian. Might be better than trying to replace the points and condenser with it in the car.

[types26/36]

Might be better than trying to replace the points and condenser with it in the car.

Absolutely, but now a 1000 people will tell you to fit electronic ign

[billwill]

I'm beginning to wonder if sticky centrifugal weights in my distributor are the cause of my engine's very real reluctance to start when it has been unused for a few days.

I've tried just about everything else.

[paddy]

In my experience, the engine will start fairly easily with ign timing off by 20 degrees (crank) either way - which is roughly the total distance moved by the centrifugal advance - so it sounds unlikely to me.

I would check the theory out by just putting a strobe light on while cranking the engine and see roughly where the timing is.

Also, if the weights are sticking to that degree, I'd expect to see quite a lot of jitter in the timing when using a strobe when the engine is running.

Paddy

[twincamman]

TO REMOVE THE DIST ----JUST REMOVE THE DIST CAP ---LOOSEN THE CLAMP and lift -------however it is wise to do this with the cams and pulley at tdc --front lobes out rear lobes in - timing marks in correct position -and to replace the dist follow the manual exactly ----the low tension wires adjacent to the block --make sure the slot in the rotor is at 6 o'clock as it will turn to the left [anti clock wise] into the correct position as it meshes - this will put #1 at the top slightly right and timing [1342] will be set in correct position --- the clamps will be vertical in a line at 90 degrees with the block --put plug in the wire and rotate the dist it will spark confirming #1 plug -otherwise you will chase the thing around for hours trying to get it started---ed