urgent HELP to find a rocker switch head lamp

[umbyfer]

Hi,

I need to replace/restore the head lamp rocker switch of my elan sprint year 1971. Very difficult yo find it, I know (I found all the other one, but not this one)

I AM KINDLY ASKING TO EVERYBODY TO HELP ME TO FIND A HEAD LAMP ROCKER SWITCH.

Thank you,
Umberto Ferrari
[email protected]

[trw99]

Umberto

These are now unobtainable, as you probably realise. Rocker switches do appear on e-bay occasionaly, normaly someone breaking a Plus 2. Best to keep a watch on there and then be prepared to pay a lot for them! I don't recall anyone selling them individualy though.

Tim

[Frank Howard]

Umberto,

It is my understanding that the pull knob releases the vacuum which raises the lights and the pull knob also turns on the headlights. The headlight rocker does not control the headlights at all. It is a simple on/off switch that controls the side marker lights and the tail lights only.

If you are looking for an original on/off rocker that can control the side marker lights and the tail lights, I have one available.

[miked]

Frank,

Are you sure? If you pull the knob without the rocker, you have the head light flashing caused by the left pod micro switch. Does the rocker not need to be in the second position to allow the main and dipped beam lamps to work.

It is late now. Not looked at a diagram but sure mine works this way.

I went to the trouble of getting the silly flashing circuit to work!



Mike

[lotuselan2]

Who cares if the headlights come on before the headlights are fully in up position? I never even considered having that switch during my restoration.
Ken

[Frank Howard]

Are you sure? If you pull the knob without the rocker, you have the head light flashing caused by the left pod micro switch. Does the rocker not need to be in the second position to allow the main and dipped beam lamps to work.

Mike,

To answer your question, I'm sure that's the way it works on my car as it is original and I use it as a daily (and nightly) driver. To my knowledge, US bound S4s came from the factory without the left pod micro switch. Further, the main and dipped beams are totally independant from the rocker as they work regardless of which position the rocker is in. Hope this answers your question.

[denicholls2]

Who cares if the headlights come on before the headlights are fully in up position? I never even considered having that switch during my restoration.
Ken

One very good reason I can think of is the amount of heat that can be generated by a headlamp in an enclosed area. At least the early bodyshells of Elites were known for melting in sunlight; I suspect if the light is on with the pod closed some local deformation might occur. If so, it would be a very unhappy experience.

[miked]

Frank,

Thanks for reply. I checked the UK wiring diagram and also know my car works this way. The right hand pod micro switch completes the negative earth control circuit of the relay coils (main and Dip). Hence the pod has to be up to allow relays to eneregise. The control supply is via the dip/main beam switch and is derived from the two position wedge switch. Without the switch being in the second position the lights will not operate when you pull the air control to raise them. Mine are non fail safe.

The diagram also shows the flashing circuit with a relay, flasher unit and left pod micro switch. If I pull the air control without the lights switched on, the lights will lift and will flash only by virtue of the flasher control. This being in series with the relay coil and being switched to negative with the pod switch. I had to balance this circuit with resistance to get the flasher to work at the correct rate. When it is not in circuit the lights would not light without the main switch being operated. I appreciate that there may be differences across the pond but the UK diagram shows this. I am not trying to be smart, but just making my point as I dug in on the restoration and wanted to get the flasher to work just for the hell of it.


Mike

[elansprint71]

Mike's description is absolutely spot-on for UK cars but I've read somewhere before that US spec was different. My '68 S4SE (non-failsafe) worked just like that; my '72 Sprint is a law unto itself.

Pete.