modern fuse box

[batfish]

I am building up a 1963 S1 Elan for historic racing using a Brise competition alternator and I want to install a blade fuse box with up to 12 fuses to protect the various circuits. I have bought a couple of books on classic and competion electric wiring however none of them explain how to connect up such a fuse box system. Has anyone any advice on the connections required, by this I mean the actual power side of the fuse box other than one main wire linked to all the terminals on the one side.

[elansprint71]

Are you sure that those mods are allowed?

Pete.

[1964 S1]

And if you are permitted those mods, may I ask why so many fuses? I think my S1 (not a race car) has two.
Eric

[batfish]

Fitting an alternator and up rating the fuses are allowed in the FIA historic regulations
A standard S1 has approximately 5 circuits running of one fuse and I think a couple of the other fuse with the remaining cicuits being unprotected, from an electrical safety/reliability point of view this is not the best practice even though it was standard practice in the sixties for road cars.

[RotoFlexible]

I agree that the two-fuse box on the early Elans (like mine) is dodgy, especially as it lives where moisture and/or grime can affect it. One fuse for the horn, one for everything else! - except the ignition and headlights, which are unfused. Last year, I put the headlights on relays and fused the high and low beam circuits separately, but left the fuse box as it was.

This year I'm reworking everything. I am leaving the two-fuse box where it is for appearance, but running far fewer circuits on it. Under the dash, I'll be installing an 8-position blade fuse box and about 5 relays. That's two fuses for the headlights, one for the feed to the light switch (this feeds the position lights and the headlight relays through the safety microswitch), one for the heater fan relay, one to feed the ignition switch, one for the fuel pump relay, one for the (new) headlight lift motors, and a spare position.

All the circuits on the new fuse box need unswitched power, so I can just feed them all from the battery/alternator terminal on the starter solenoid. Unfortunately, the box I'm using has separate terminals for each fuse, so I'll have to daisy-chain it, but there are boxes that have a single power input to feed all fuses.

I should add that I am making this up as I go along - no idea of how it "should" be done - but I have put a lot of thought into it and this is what I came up with.

Hope this helps.

[gsminors]

I totaly agree about the new fuse/relay box. I am also considering this on my +2 and the MGB I am restoring. For safety and reliabilty this is a must do.
Not to sure what you mean about the wiring? As far as I can tell you should have a main feed coming into the box of a heavier gauge wire to handle the amps going through it. The out put side then goes to your lights etc. You can have a fuse for each of the out puts rated to the correct amps for each circuit. Relays for lights, horn and heavier rated use is a must, this will take the high current away from the switches which is a very good thing.
I am planing on putting the fuse/relay board under the dash maybe on a hinge so it will come down making it easier for changing fuses etc. My ultimate goal is to have as few wires under the hood/bonnet as possible to make it look tidy and keep the wires and terminals away from the wet and dirt as much as possible.
Good luck on your project.

[gsminors]

I totaly agree about the new fuse/relay box. I am also considering this on my +2 and the MGB I am restoring. For safety and reliabilty this is a must do.
Not to sure what you mean about the wiring? As far as I can tell you should have a main feed coming into the box of a heavier gauge wire to handle the amps going through it. The out put side then goes to your lights etc. You can have a fuse for each of the out puts rated to the correct amps for each circuit. Relays for lights, horn and heavier rated use is a must, this will take the high current away from the switches which is a very good thing.
I am planing on putting the fuse/relay board under the dash maybe on a hinge so it will come down making it easier for changing fuses etc. My ultimate goal is to have as few wires under the hood/bonnet as possible to make it look tidy and keep the wires and terminals away from the wet and dirt as much as possible.
Good luck on your project.