and another one: Dual gauge

PostPost by: Emma-Knight » Sat Dec 02, 2006 1:05 pm

I replaced my old two gauge system with the dual gauge one. Temperature works fine but oil pressure moves irratic. First day climbes only to 10 psi and stays no matter what rpm, even when engine off (for more than five minutes). next day only 1 psi at idle and two at 2500 rpm, not raising when revving up to 4000. - what the... :shock: - ?!

Any ideas? by the way:the engine runs fine..


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PostPost by: types26/36 » Sat Dec 02, 2006 2:21 pm

Sounds like the gauge is "kuput" but would be best to check the oil pressure with a master gauge.
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PostPost by: hatman » Sun Dec 03, 2006 10:31 pm

Kink in supply tube?
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PostPost by: 1964 S1 » Mon Dec 04, 2006 1:59 am

I think the two replies are worth investigating. I'm a low maintenance no maintenance type guy, but I'd fix the gauge or put another one in temporarily. Immediately. Faulty oil pre$$ure repairs can be expensive. Did you save your old gauge?
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PostPost by: Emma-Knight » Mon Dec 04, 2006 1:50 pm

Yes, I kept the old, working Motometer bit. So I can do a cross reference test - testing the old gauge for correctness and then the cars oil pressure with it. The Smith dual one was a rebuild one... :oops:

When I put down the car about one and a half year ago, oil pressure was exactly where it should be - just on the "german" gauge. Might be the plastik pipe that causes problem.

(just tested the Motometer device: 50 psi on workshop airsystem = 45 on gauge, 75 psi = 70 on gauge - so the engine was fine when switched off
last time before restarting. (39psi at 2500 rpm)

Are there any known cases of oil pan not letting oil to pick up pipe? Dip stick shows "full" full...

:roll:

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Tue Dec 05, 2006 11:21 am

Anna

A dry oil pump can struggle to develop enough suction to pull oil from the sump especially if worn. If the engine has not been run for a couple of years this is a possibility. However you get no oil perssure in this case not 1, 2 or 10 psi.

Your car is an S2 and I would presume if it still has the original block it will be the early type with the screw in pick up. If not fitted correctly this can leak at its connection between the block and the pick up letting air into the pump suction side and you can get a reduced or no oil pressure


I would not run the engine until you have connected a known good guage to verify you actually do have OK oil pressure.

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PostPost by: elj221c » Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:03 am

Anna,

Try bleeding the pipe at the gauge end. Just slacken off the union a tad while turning over the engine, no plugs and ignition off, large pice of rag to catch the fallout. If you get none then there is hatman's kinky pipe. Worked for me in the past.

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PostPost by: Emma-Knight » Fri Dec 22, 2006 5:58 pm

:D found my oil pressure:

:shock:

kinked pressure pipe - right under the well thought heater return line/
oil pressure line 90? junction behind timing cover.
1.Heater line squeezed down the oil line - so late pressure reading.
2.Hot heater line permanently shaped kink to close - so 10 psi, even with engine off.
3.Kinked pipe still closed - so almost no pressure next start.

I will buy a 90? adaptor from speedy cables.

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