Wiring Looms - Rewiring 0037N (1970 Federal +2S)

[nwbaxter66]

Very sharp idea, thank you

[nwbaxter66]

thanks for the suggestion.
By right-angle blade connectors do you mean the ones in the picture below? Suitably crimped and insulated?
Thanks

[nwbaxter66]

f'glass repair complete - good news.
finally getting dash removed and seeing the wiring mess behind brought on a slight sense of despair in looking at the task ahead, but also one of hope in realizing that I can replace the bonnet catches relatively easily and fix lots of other stuff related to fixing things to a fibreglass body.

Onwards ...

[Bigbaldybloke]

Yes, that’s what I meant by right angled connectors

[RichardHawkins]

Nick,

Those right angle connectors are also known as “flag terminals”, I believe there are crimping tools for flag terminals, but as I have spent a small fortune on various crimping tools I decided to solder where I need a flag terminal.

Hope this helps,

Richard Hawkins

[nwbaxter66]

Been a little frustrated over the last couple of days, but have the f'glass repairs complete, bunch of powder coating complete and have now finished the wiring loom "frame".
StuG suggested laying everything out on the floor, but that was probably not going to work for me, so a wooden frame seemed to be the solution.
Old loom laid out on the frame for labelling.
It sure beats lying on your back trying to both light something and move it at the same time.

No real work to build (and that's Captain Obvious at his best) and there is a second Plus 2 in the town that will be able to use it.

[RichardHawkins]

Nick,

What you are doing is basically what I did, although my car is a1968 S4 Elan. However I made a serious mistake of working out where to put the wiring. My car was in pieces and I managed to get the wiring to clash with the heater ducting. I have had to replace most of the wire behind the dash as it was too short. Don’t make that mistake, and try to think ahead. I tend to get too involved with what I am doing and miss the bigger picture.

Hope this helps,

Richard Hawkins

[1owner69Elan]

Another suggestion. When I did my rewiring I labelled the wires by printing out small labels that could wrap around the wires, then covered with clear heat shrink, and sealed. A way to permanently ensure labeling as opposed to taped on labels or marking pens. This way you don't have to continually refer back to the wiring diagram and color coding to sort out what you have. Also, if you have added additional circuits or relays (e.g. fuel pump, etc.) it makes things clear that are not on original diagrams.

Also useful downstream to trace any given circuit without the wiring diagram at hand.

I, otherwise, kept religiously to the color coding but I'm sure the next person (after I'm no longer involved) will appreciate this.

[nwbaxter66]

Good advice, thank you
I have a label printer that prints the shrink wrap (:
It will be used

[nwbaxter66]

Back after a slight hiatus. Decided to install EFI at the same time.
Fuel system and carbs trial fitted so I can build the EFI loom and then add to the main loom

[stugilmour]

Looking good Nick. Really like the Jenvey Heritage TB’s. Assuming your fuel supply is just a mock-up? I can barely fit Weber 45’s under my bulged Federal bonnet with a low profile linkage and the fuel loom below the carb bodies.

[nwbaxter66]

Actually the fuel loom is a loose fit, I was running a returnless feed to the webers and just added the last return segment
It will be tight but moving the linkage below is a good move

[nwbaxter66]

Resurrecting this thread - can’t believe that the car sat in the garage for this long before I finally got around to re-starting.
We needed the garage space so car moved to workshop.
Ditched the British Wiring loom and decided to reverse engineer a modern set up from Racewire Solutions here in the USA and go with the QED electronic ignition/coil set up rather than full EFI. A little challenging and will require some workaround but it does clean up the engine bay from a wiring perspective, no fuse boxes or relays.

Engine bay and front lights are now wired up and ready for work in the Cabin.
Power light pods installed and working.
Carb install and fuel lines next to wrap the carb side of the engine bay.
Still need to install Steering column and reconnect brake lines.
Next stop will be the boot - lights, fuel pump, fuel level sender and various ancillary lights.
Then the really unpleasant work on hooking it all together around the dash.

See how far we get !!

[nwbaxter66]

Tidier than before.

[nwbaxter66]

Side Lights / Parking Lights.

Not using the stock loom has provide a little more opportunity for some customization.
While I think that this is how things were originally supposed to work I am not sure and would be interested in confirmation/solutions.

Night time driving - Light Pod up, Headlights on, Side Lights on, Gauge Lights on.

Daytime driving - Side Lights on, Gauge Lights off, Headlights off, Light Pod down.

Parking - Side lights on, everything else off and running direct from battery, ie not 12v switched.

The Side light switch that I have is a three position switch with four terminals. With power applied to one side the pin out is live in two positions, when power applied to the other, only power in one position.

Should this be a six pin switch?

Should I put in a new relay that allows me to trigger the side lights without overloading the supply?