Need new starter motor

[SENC]

I recently replace the Lucas starter with the Powerlite RAC472 when I broke an ear off the Lucas mounting plates during the engine reinstall. I wasn't having any problems with the Lucas unit, but I just couldn't find an end plate (or a scrap starter) anywhere. The RAC 472 was a straight forward swap, with only the hole in the connector tab needing to be enlarged slightly. It starts easy enough now, but the Powerlite starter is a lot noisier than the Lucas one.

What Lucas starter model #? Or post a picture of the end plate - I have a couple from spares, happy to send you one if it will work.

EDIT - just noticed you're in NZ... I suspect shipping might make it prohibitive.

[Hawksfield]

Hi All
There is nothing wrong with a standard starter motor, refurbish and save time and money

[alan.barker]

+1

[Slowtus]

Hi All
There is nothing wrong with a standard starter motor, refurbish and save time and money

The motor itself is okay and will last "forever" but I have replaced a few of mine with a NipponDenso plus a small sandwich plate and the difference is night and day, going from sometime lugubrious cranking to instant(ish) starting.

One potential problem is the weight of the original and if not torqued correctly it eventually 'droops' and chews the teeth.

[skelteanema]

Thanks for the offer SENC/Henry,

as you say, I think the cost of sending to NZ will be prohibitive.

Interesting thing is that about 10 to 15 years ago, I went to a local wreckers yard and I could have a choice of about 20 or 30 Lucas used starters straight off the shelf, I chose one with the least worn teeth and minimal play in the shaft. Going back to the same wreckers now and they have none, nada, zilch...got rid of them all as no demand.

I could have bought a Lucas replica locally but it was about the same price as the Powerlite unit, and I was wary of the quality of the replicas. I am happy with the Powerlite unit as it does the job efficiently but just doesn't sound of the correct vintag.

I know some old starters will turn up at swap meets and the like, but only when life gets back to normal.

[Quart Meg Miles]

On reflection, I have to come clean.

I have had four replacement ring gears and even more pinions. Much of the wear has been due to the starter bolts coming loose and ruining engagement, flanges have cracked and one eventually broke off! Fortunately I was able to salvage an end plate from a ruined motor.

The starter is dated 1971, so presumably not original and, on the recommendation of Buckland, I now fit a 10-tooth pinion and the engagement sounds far better than with the 9-tooth. However, you must be aware that I have a very high mileage engine.

[Slowtus]

[quote= "Quart Meg Miles"] Much of the wear has been due to the starter bolts coming loose and ruining engagement, flanges have cracked and one eventually broke off [/quote]

Yup and yup...

[tonyabacus]

Taken a while to respond.
One of the problems with these starters seems to be the current drawn and the grot that builds up on the shaft and starter gear. We all go through the same motions of checking connections especially earth connections chasing through current readings with meters etc, but one area that is difficult to check is the cranking amps of the battery. Although the battery may give a fully charged reading that is not the same as saying it has enough power to turn the engine over fast enough to start it.

I had this issue recently where it would turn over but slowly even after a recharge, but had learned this lesson many years ago, so immediately off to the battery man and got the battery checked with the more sophisticated kit he has, and sure enough, the cranking amps were well down and not enough to do the job, despite showing a healthy charge. New battery, immediate start with engine turned over quite quickly.

So before you spend hours checking out and crawling under the car, whip the battery to your local man and be sure your battery has sufficient power to do its job, saves a lot of time and head scratching.

By the way Senc if you read this is the offer of an end plate still available
Tony

[StressCraxx]

Taken a while to respond.
One of the problems with these starters seems to be the current drawn and the grot that builds up on the shaft and starter gear. We all go through the same motions of checking connections especially earth connections chasing through current readings with meters etc, but one area that is difficult to check is the cranking amps of the battery. Although the battery may give a fully charged reading that is not the same as saying it has enough power to turn the engine over fast enough to start it.

I had this issue recently where it would turn over but slowly even after a recharge, but had learned this lesson many years ago, so immediately off to the battery man and got the battery checked with the more sophisticated kit he has, and sure enough, the cranking amps were well down and not enough to do the job, despite showing a healthy charge. New battery, immediate start with engine turned over quite quickly.

So before you spend hours checking out and crawling under the car, whip the battery to your local man and be sure your battery has sufficient power to do its job, saves a lot of time and head scratching.

By the way Senc if you read this is the offer of an end plate still available
Tony

Thanks Tony, great advice. Batteries don't last forever.

[SENC]

Taken a while to respond.
One of the problems with these starters seems to be the current drawn and the grot that builds up on the shaft and starter gear. We all go through the same motions of checking connections especially earth connections chasing through current readings with meters etc, but one area that is difficult to check is the cranking amps of the battery. Although the battery may give a fully charged reading that is not the same as saying it has enough power to turn the engine over fast enough to start it.

I had this issue recently where it would turn over but slowly even after a recharge, but had learned this lesson many years ago, so immediately off to the battery man and got the battery checked with the more sophisticated kit he has, and sure enough, the cranking amps were well down and not enough to do the job, despite showing a healthy charge. New battery, immediate start with engine turned over quite quickly.

So before you spend hours checking out and crawling under the car, whip the battery to your local man and be sure your battery has sufficient power to do its job, saves a lot of time and head scratching.

By the way Senc if you read this is the offer of an end plate still available
Tony

Post or pm me a picture of the end plate you need, or the model #. I have a couple spare end plates and would be happy to share 1 if the right one for you.

[Donels]

If you're going to replace the starter why not go for a more modern technology. I have an Edge 1.4 kW 9 Tooth Gear Reduction Starter part no. CF003/9X from Cambridge Motorsport Parts Ltd. There are many similar starters all priced around £230 GBP.

[Quart Meg Miles]

If you're going to replace the starter why not go for a more modern technology. I have an Edge 1.4 kW 9 Tooth Gear Reduction Starter part no. CF003/9X from Cambridge Motorsport Parts Ltd. There are many similar starters all priced around £230 GBP.

Why did you buy an old car in the first place? £230 GBP is still a lot of money to many people.

[Robbie693]

Powerlite also do refurbished original units for about £60.00, much cheaper than the gear reduction jobs...

I have also had a few broken end plates, I now fit large penny washers with the spring washers and thread lock the bolts!

Robbie

[NYK]

I received my Powerlite RAC472 from Paul Matty yesterday now my engine spins over nice and fast, perhaps there are cheaper options but I’m happy with what I’ve bought.

[ericbushby]

Great.!
Eric in Burnley