Over Rev

[rgh0]

A good quality standard clutch pressure plate and clutch plate should be OK for 9000 rpm plus and much more hp or sudden load release than standard. The only difference I use on my Elan from std is a solid bonded clutch plate and heavier clutch diaphram spring and that assembly is reliable at 180 hp and 9000 rpm and drop the cltuch starts over many years.

If the over rev caused the problems there may have been an inherent defect present previously.

cheers
Rohan

[miked]

This is the photo! I will try and get the opposite side in the chuck and see what the score is with this side. I have been foxed by the label, just pulled it off and the gaps are equal. However the the tabs are bent at slightly different angles. Mike

[ardee_selby]

Comparing with another from the same stable...tabs look OK. But what's with the chamfer? Looks quite damaged in close-up...

Richard

[miked]

Hi Richard,

It does indeed look rough in the photo, I will look closer tonight. It looks like an unfinished casting. It may be grease still on there reflecting the light.

I did some more examining last night. The only thing of note that I can now say is that when I hold the pressure plate/clutch cover in my hand and tap it with the hide hammer it makes a very metallic click/clack (just like the one when pulling off). I can only conclude that the noise may be from the cover. I could not check the plate in the chuck.

I am off this Lunch time to get all the new bits. Cover/pressure plate, clutch plate, thrust bearing, spigot bearing. Have ordered new flywheel bolts from Burton.

With a bit of luck I will get it all back together this weekend. Fingers crossed. I think Rohan has it right, probably a faulty part. I have done nothing as dramatic as high rpm clutch dropping. That would be an impact load test.

Mike

[ardee_selby]

The only difference I use on my Elan from std is a solid bonded clutch plate and heavier clutch diaphram spring Rohan

Rohan,

Have any clutch release forks objected to the higher load, or had they been strengthened?

(Have read on here of at least two fracturing with, what I believe were, standard clutch assemblies)

Cheers - Richard

[rgh0]

I have never had any problems with the clutch forks. I dont think failures of the forks are a common occurence.

cheers
Rohan

[miked]

UP date!

All back together last night. All done. New clutch, pressure plate, thrust and needle bearings and flywheel bolts. Also new gearbox rear mount.
Went for a test run. Was quiet for about 1/2 miles then heard a soft click that turned into a louder click as the car warmed up. The good news is that I now have a good spare clutch. The bad news is that engine will be coming out again. I can only conclude that it is from the gearbox. When out I had a look in there and also tried the slack in it between input and output shafts in gear. It was slightly more that of a very low mileage mint Anglia box that I have. I was of a mind to change it but figured I would never know what the culprit was. Also me and my hands are not going to give the force required to make the noise.
I can only conclude that the new cold oil screened/cushioned the noise until it warmed and then the less viscous oil allowed the click to return. I am wondering if it is associated with the action of going through the lay shaft. I did that rocking thing in gear with the engine stopped and could hear the noise (albeit) not as snappy. Will try in 4th tonight and also take it for a faster run and try and make it do it on and off the throttle in that gear. Last night I only went on estate roads and could get the noise in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. less dramatic as gear goes higher and torque is less. It just feels like something taking up slack after the car is moving. It sounds like it is definitely coming from around the gearbox/bell housing area. I was suspecting the prop' shaft UJ?s again but they are new and I checked them and found nothing. Diff is also refurbed and does not sound like it is so far back. The heat thing must tell me something. I think I may drive it while I dig out a spare box and get it ready.
Good new! I did a mod to the clutch slave cylinder mount on the bell housing. For some particular reason the slave cylinder was a sloppy fit (in this particular housing) and slides a good 2 mm or more fore and aft?. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the bell housing and tapped it. I know have the cylinder sat on the circlip with the bolt holding it firm and a lock nut to prevent the bolt moving. Took about 5 minutes and the clutch pedal feels mint. The cylinder was moving with the action of the piston and the return spring. I could have got a shim but this seemed easier and more immediately easy to do.
Another thing I did was to repair the wear in the clutch ?D? shape thing that sits on the thrust ring and fork. This creates a lot of play if slightly worn. Bite point on pedal is much higher than it was before.

Any suggestions welcome about possibilities on gearbox being the culprit. I don?t know much about them and what might give this sort of effect.

Mike

[miked]

Update!
Motor has been out again with fresh built gearbox ready to go in. Out and in on Saturday and almost ready to run last night. Once I got the gearbox out I was anxious to split it see what lurked having posted those problems with the roller bearings.
I spilt the box and found:
The cage for the roller bearing between the first motion and main shafts to be separated into two parts.
The front circlip on the first motion shaft to be part way off and damage to the snap ring groove.
The lay shaft slack in the front case area and some slight corrosion on the shaft in that area.

I feel that the rollers must have been giving me the click noise when re aligning without the cage to hold the rollers straight. I will only know for sure when I get to complete the job and drive tonight. Fingers crossed but it looks like good evidence to me. There is big lesson here for me. For the little time it takes to split a 3 rail box, to examine the bits, I will never ever put an engine in a car without decking the gearbox and making sure that all is right. Whilst this box changed great with no running noise this click has driven me potty.
I can only conclude that the roller cage separated when I put the clutch in under heavy acceleration.
Will let you know! I am surprised that there has not been more talk about this bearing given it position and condition I have found them in on the boxes I have just spilt.


Mike

[miked]

Ran it today, click has now gone. It was the gearbox roller bearing. Mike