Wiring Module ?
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I need advice on installing a new wiring harness in my Lotus Elan S3 '66. To have real protection and not have short circuits, a friend of mine recommends installing a "CBS 12 circuit Wiring Module". Has anyone ever installed this in a Lotus Elan? Or are there alternatives to have good protection ?
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- Mike Spence
- First Gear
- Posts: 37
- Joined: 13 Nov 2010
That looks like overkill, depending.
More details about power use, and supply I suppose?
More details about power use, and supply I suppose?
Born, and brought home from the hospital (no seat belt (wtf)) in a baby!
Find out where the limits are, and start from there
Love your Mother
Earth
Find out where the limits are, and start from there
Love your Mother
Earth
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h20hamelan - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1957
- Joined: 25 Sep 2010
I installed a relay/fusebox in my elan- since I have several changes I did. It is different than that one, and I am not sure the best choice, but it is waterproof (claimed) and seemed to work out.
I am running electric water pump, distributorless ignition, O2 sensor and twin fans (one controlled by water pump electronics, the other by radiator sensor).
Yeah, pretty silly- but all is reversible if it does not work.
Mark
I am running electric water pump, distributorless ignition, O2 sensor and twin fans (one controlled by water pump electronics, the other by radiator sensor).
Yeah, pretty silly- but all is reversible if it does not work.
Mark
1966 Lotus Elan S3- Benelli motorcycles (various)
- Lotus54
- Second Gear
- Posts: 128
- Joined: 10 Oct 2023
These are simple cars with simple wiring and components. Also new wiring looms can be bought off the shelf.
I can't understand why you would want to make rewiring it complicated using such a device and a possible nightmare for the next person who buys the car from you.
These are just my thoughts though..It is your car!
Alan.
I can't understand why you would want to make rewiring it complicated using such a device and a possible nightmare for the next person who buys the car from you.
These are just my thoughts though..It is your car!
Alan.
Alan
'71 +2 S130/ 5speed Type9.
'71 +2 S130/ 5speed Type9.
- alanr
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- Joined: 14 Sep 2018
Thanks for providing comments !
I understand that such a module is not exactly the solution. It is indeed "overkill".
I bought a new wiring loom and want to install it. The fact that I install an alternator places the negative pole on the chassis. There was no wiring harness present in my project. That's why I look for all information on the internet.
I do have an original schedule, but it doesn't always work out. I am surprised that there are only 2 original fuses. That's why I'm looking for a solution for better protection.
Advice and tips are welcome.
Many thanks !
I understand that such a module is not exactly the solution. It is indeed "overkill".
I bought a new wiring loom and want to install it. The fact that I install an alternator places the negative pole on the chassis. There was no wiring harness present in my project. That's why I look for all information on the internet.
I do have an original schedule, but it doesn't always work out. I am surprised that there are only 2 original fuses. That's why I'm looking for a solution for better protection.
Advice and tips are welcome.
Many thanks !
- Mike Spence
- First Gear
- Posts: 37
- Joined: 13 Nov 2010
I built my own harness almost 30 years ago, using much higher grade wire, multi pin connectors for organization and a few things like gold plated pins for wiring out in the nose. Virtually no problems since.
I used the lucas logic and changed little in the wiring diagram. The windows are individually fused, but the rest of the car is still on two fuses.
Point being that additional complexity is not required. Adding the pictured fuse block would be, I would call it, unsympathetic.
There are a few things one could add to a two fuse car. Headlights are unfused I think, so maybe that. Larger wires to the windows and larger grounds in some cases
When I first tested my harness with things still apart, the wipers were simply possessed! amazing what good wire and a good ground will do.
I used the lucas logic and changed little in the wiring diagram. The windows are individually fused, but the rest of the car is still on two fuses.
Point being that additional complexity is not required. Adding the pictured fuse block would be, I would call it, unsympathetic.
There are a few things one could add to a two fuse car. Headlights are unfused I think, so maybe that. Larger wires to the windows and larger grounds in some cases
When I first tested my harness with things still apart, the wipers were simply possessed! amazing what good wire and a good ground will do.
- gus
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 729
- Joined: 05 May 2011
Mike,
I have done something similar to your proposition. Rather than buy an aftermarket system I looked around for an existing vehicle that had it’s fuse/distribution board in a place that would suit an Elan. I settled for something from the VW group, a Skoda Felicia estate. I bought an MOT failure, removed all the wiring complete with distribution/fuse board, and sold the rest of the vehicle to my local friendly scrap man.
VW use good connectors within the cabin and even better waterproof connectors in the engine bay. A good friend who is an electrical engineer and MG enthusiast advised me against this work. I should have listened to him, for although I have succeeded, I have made many mistakes, mainly with routing the wires, which has created much rework. This work has taken me years.
Hope this helps,
Richard Hawkins
I have done something similar to your proposition. Rather than buy an aftermarket system I looked around for an existing vehicle that had it’s fuse/distribution board in a place that would suit an Elan. I settled for something from the VW group, a Skoda Felicia estate. I bought an MOT failure, removed all the wiring complete with distribution/fuse board, and sold the rest of the vehicle to my local friendly scrap man.
VW use good connectors within the cabin and even better waterproof connectors in the engine bay. A good friend who is an electrical engineer and MG enthusiast advised me against this work. I should have listened to him, for although I have succeeded, I have made many mistakes, mainly with routing the wires, which has created much rework. This work has taken me years.
Hope this helps,
Richard Hawkins
- RichardHawkins
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 05 Jul 2008
Another option you could consider is one of the newer "power distribution modules" or "power management units", which come in various levels of complexity. These originate in motorsport but are now starting to become more affordable for diy use.
These typically do away with the fuses and relays altogether, and can allow either physical inputs or CAN bus control. Some can auto retry in the event that one of the outputs goes over a preset current threshold; some can 'cold start' (useful for high current inrush devices such as fans); others allow PWM control of outputs via configurable logic (so you could make your fan get proportionally faster the hotter the coolant gets) etc
They are typically solid state; I've seen some simpler ones intended for motorbikes which could be a good fit, for example:
Rowe PDM60 - 60Amp, 6 output channels: https://www.rowe-electronics.com/pdm60
Cartek - 4x 10Amp https://www.cartekmotorsport.com/power- ... n-modules/
Motogadget - 12 input/ 10 output https://motogadget.com/products/mo-unit-basic
Motobrain - 8x 15amp outputs https://motobrain.net/details
At the upper end of the market you get units with many high current outputs, so you can run a whole car without any fuses or relays (e.g. https://www.ecumaster.com/products/pmu/)
These typically do away with the fuses and relays altogether, and can allow either physical inputs or CAN bus control. Some can auto retry in the event that one of the outputs goes over a preset current threshold; some can 'cold start' (useful for high current inrush devices such as fans); others allow PWM control of outputs via configurable logic (so you could make your fan get proportionally faster the hotter the coolant gets) etc
They are typically solid state; I've seen some simpler ones intended for motorbikes which could be a good fit, for example:
Rowe PDM60 - 60Amp, 6 output channels: https://www.rowe-electronics.com/pdm60
Cartek - 4x 10Amp https://www.cartekmotorsport.com/power- ... n-modules/
Motogadget - 12 input/ 10 output https://motogadget.com/products/mo-unit-basic
Motobrain - 8x 15amp outputs https://motobrain.net/details
At the upper end of the market you get units with many high current outputs, so you can run a whole car without any fuses or relays (e.g. https://www.ecumaster.com/products/pmu/)
- ill_will
- Third Gear
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- Joined: 18 Apr 2008
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