Dash Rocker Switch Refurbisment

[RichardHawkins]

I bought a new dash, years ago, cleaned up and checked my switches fitted the switches to the new dash. Two switches were very scruffy, the rockers were almost white, Sue Miller had replacements, which I bought and fitted. I wrapped the dash in an old sheet and put it aside.

I am about to fit the dash to the car, unwrapped it and the two new switches look very shiny black, whilst the others are more like a satin black, which I prefer. I still have the old switches.

My thoughts are to clean up the old switches and put them back in place of the two new switches.

I know the subject of switch refurbishment has come up several times, and have spent several hours trawling through past posts. The following is my summary of other people’s suggestions, but in no particular order.

Abrade with fine, 1200 grit paper followed by medium compound as used on paint.
Wipe wit baby oil.
Gtechnic UK C4 permanent trim restorer.
Worth Plastic Dye Plast PT.
Armour All Protectant.
Wire wool followed by WD40.
Fetltip permanent pen.
Auto Glyn bumper care.
Black carpet dye.
Chemical Guys - gel black forever trim and tyre shine.
Abrade with fine paper, apply Humbrol acrylic satin black paint. Several posts recommend paint.
Armour All wipes.
Silicon brake fluid.

I am inclined towards abrade with fine paper and polish to match the other switches.

All the various restorative materials if used will probably prevent any other method due to contamination of the plastic.

I am not good with paint, usually getting in a mess.

One of the posts was from Mudmouse who works in the plastic industry and confirms that the whitening effect is due to micro cracks, from this I deduce that polishing should work, and that the micro cracks would form a good key for paint.

I am hoping to get some consensus of the best option.

Richard Hawkins

[JonB]

See viewtopic.php?f=38&t=40434

I concluded that baby oil works best.

[Donels]

I found all of the coating, other than paint, we’re just temporary. Ok if you’re happy to reapply every so often. The lasting solution is to remove the whitened layer by some kind of mild abrasive. I mopped them with a metal polish and a dremel.

[RichardHawkins]

Jon and Donnels,

Thanks for the replies. Polishing back with a mild abrasive is what I am going to try first on the basis that the plastic will be clean and not prevent difficulties for any other method.

My second option would be paint, and if that is not satisfactory I will try permanent felt tip pen. If I am still not happy, then I can try one of the various oil type options and reapply when necessary.

I will try and remember to post my results.

Richard Hawkins

[elanfan1]

Satin black rattle ca. hard to beat, looks great and lasts forever

[RichardHawkins]

Steve,

Thanks for the advice, I will need to prep the plastic before paint, so thought I may as well continue the prep with a medium abrasive body/paint compound and see how it turns out. Did you use a primer?

Richard Hawkins

[elanfan1]

Just rubbedown with a gentle rub down with sandpaper

[smo17003]

I used an adhesion promotor primer on my switches before finishing with satin black. I think I used one by Upol.

I used the same stuff on my front number plate letters/numbers before spraying them white.

Mike

[AshleyPark]

This is the way!

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/_JW4ILJKrdo

[RichardHawkins]

Steve, Mike & Ashley,

Thanks for the additional advice.

Richard Hawkins

[Donels]

I’ve tried buffing them, polishing with various compounds and ended up with a dremel polishing map and Autosol. I got a great shiny finish but it was just not right and showed all imperfections. Painted with Plasticote Satin Black as recommended elsewhere on this site. Brilliant finish, just like new and so easy to do.

[RichardHawkins]

Sorry, I forgot to post my final solution.

I rubbed the rocker down, finishing with “crocus paper” this is like very fine sandpaper except the abrasive is iron oxide (jewellers rouge). I then finished with medium grade body shop compound. Whilst my switches do not look like new, they all look the same, I would say they have a lustre rather than a shine a bit like the difference between silver and chrome.

Hope this helps,

Richard Hawkins

[Bitsilly]

Bit late, but I used a soft brass wire brush in a drill. They looked excellent. A friend then asked me to do his the same way and they too looked excellent.
It just removed the pale oxidised layer and nothing else.
Be careful which grade brush you use though!

[gus]

treated mine over the years with occasional sptriz of armor all. Were pretty gray when I bought it. Not pure black now but decent looking

[tonyabacus]

I have for several years used a product called Bumper Care now Bumper & Trim Gel by Auto Glym. It is available in both the UK and USA.

Leaves a satin type finish or repeated applications will bring a shine. Can be used on bumpers, engine hoses and under bonnet items, so is pretty universal. Unlike some products it does not leave a high shine or residues. No need to do much prep work other than a cloth dipped into a soapy water and then cleaned off to get rid of any greasy residues.

Under bonnet application is best by brush to get into all the cavaties, but make sure to wash components with a light detergent wash and leave to dry before using the treatment, or you will spread the muck which does not look right after. Use sparingly with only small deposits to mbegin with until you see whether it requires more.
Tony