Dashboard/Steering fitting
6 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Hi Guys
I am at the stage of fitting a new dash to my Sprint project. Just about to add a new dash loom to the back of the dash. When I come to fit it back into the car, is it best to:-
A. Fit the steering carrier casting (see picture below the dash), to the back of the dash first and raise the steering column up and secure after the dash is in place?
Or
B. Fit the steering column all back together first and then try to secure behind the dash getting the 3 fixings in place up behind and in between the Speedo and Tacho?
Currently the steering column is out of the car, just the inner, lower steering rod is in place from the rack through the bulkhead.
I just want to draw on any experiences you may have had! Not really looking forward to this job, it seems I need to grow another pair of arms!
Ian
I am at the stage of fitting a new dash to my Sprint project. Just about to add a new dash loom to the back of the dash. When I come to fit it back into the car, is it best to:-
A. Fit the steering carrier casting (see picture below the dash), to the back of the dash first and raise the steering column up and secure after the dash is in place?
Or
B. Fit the steering column all back together first and then try to secure behind the dash getting the 3 fixings in place up behind and in between the Speedo and Tacho?
Currently the steering column is out of the car, just the inner, lower steering rod is in place from the rack through the bulkhead.
I just want to draw on any experiences you may have had! Not really looking forward to this job, it seems I need to grow another pair of arms!
Ian
http://www.flickr.com/photos/slowsprinter/
Lagoon Blue over White 1972 Sprint DHC
Lagoon Blue over White 1972 Sprint DHC
- slowsprinter
- Second Gear
- Posts: 111
- Joined: 20 Nov 2009
There’s likely multiple ways to skin the cat, but I’ve had my dash out multiple times, and I’ve always done it with the column support in place. I remove the column by unbolting the upper and lower clamps, unbolting the U-joint, disconnecting the electrics and pulling the column out. Of course, a bit fiddly, but most things on this car are.
I’ve made it a bit easier by welding the nuts on to the lower clamp, and replacing the electrical connector bullets with Mate-n-lok connectors.
I’ve made it a bit easier by welding the nuts on to the lower clamp, and replacing the electrical connector bullets with Mate-n-lok connectors.
Steve Lyle
1972 Elan Sprint 0248k @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-Lot ... 48K.30245/
1972 MGB Roadster @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-MG- ... 842G.4498/
2007 BMW 335i Coupe
1972 Elan Sprint 0248k @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-Lot ... 48K.30245/
1972 MGB Roadster @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-MG- ... 842G.4498/
2007 BMW 335i Coupe
-
steve lyle - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 509
- Joined: 15 Jun 2015
Did mine recently. I fitted the carrier loosely to the dash, fitted the dash to the car, trial fitted the column and then tightened up the carrier fixings, before taking it all down again. This was with instruments in the dash but no harness fitted. It also gave me the opportunity to clearly see where the harness might clash with the heater etc.
Like most things on an Elan rebuild there's not many things that you can fit first time without taking it off again to do a bit of fettling.
Also, when the dash is being trial fitted you can temporarily fit the glove box to check for clearance (assuming you're fitting a new one), but on final fitment leave the glove box out until you have completed all of you harness connections and checked routeing of heater and choke cables.
Mike
Like most things on an Elan rebuild there's not many things that you can fit first time without taking it off again to do a bit of fettling.
Also, when the dash is being trial fitted you can temporarily fit the glove box to check for clearance (assuming you're fitting a new one), but on final fitment leave the glove box out until you have completed all of you harness connections and checked routeing of heater and choke cables.
Mike
Mike
1967 S3 FHC
1968 S4 FHC
1967 S3 FHC
1968 S4 FHC
- smo17003
- Third Gear
- Posts: 393
- Joined: 11 May 2006
steve lyle wrote:There’s likely multiple ways to skin the cat, but I’ve had my dash out multiple times, and I’ve always done it with the column support in place. I remove the column by unbolting the upper and lower clamps, unbolting the U-joint, disconnecting the electrics and pulling the column out. Of course, a bit fiddly, but most things on this car are.
.
What Steve said....
Phil Harrison
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
-
pharriso - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3186
- Joined: 15 Sep 2010
Many thanks fellas!
Ian
Ian
http://www.flickr.com/photos/slowsprinter/
Lagoon Blue over White 1972 Sprint DHC
Lagoon Blue over White 1972 Sprint DHC
- slowsprinter
- Second Gear
- Posts: 111
- Joined: 20 Nov 2009
I believe I've read that in fitting the new dash, it is recommended to leave the speedo out until everything else is in.
Perhaps they were referring to the steering column mounting conundrum. I'll be interested to hear how it goes as my car will be going through that next year.
Cheers,
Eric
Perhaps they were referring to the steering column mounting conundrum. I'll be interested to hear how it goes as my car will be going through that next year.
Cheers,
Eric
Life's too short to drive boring cars!
'66 S3 Elan Coupe'
'66 S3 Elan Coupe'
- Bushwacker
- First Gear
- Posts: 28
- Joined: 20 Jul 2012
6 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests