Blue/Black 028/0.30 wiring cable

[m1dge]

Hi all,
I'm looking to remake the looms for my 67 plus 2 but I don't seem to be able to find blue/black cable with the correct 028/0.30 17Amp gauge. I've tried Holden's and AES without success. Anyone have any other suggestions or do I need to go with thin wall cables.
Andy

[Peter S2]

Andy
Autosparks Nottingham they also so do complete looms
Pete

[HCA]

Why would you want to make a new loom and not use thinwall cable?

[m1dge]

Hal, it probably just comes down to my ignorance.

Are there any downsides to thin wall eg. longevity, cracking or connecting with the rest of the elan's antiquated electrics.

Andy

[HCA]

Ah, ok!

I do not see any downsides of thinwall over PVC. If you are intent in msking your own loom, then go for it, especially if you have the patience to colour code it!

The main benefit you will immediately see is that the loom will be about a third of the size to the original. The successful crimping of terminals does require a professional grade and expensive crimper. I suggest though you slder the wires to terminals first and finish with a hobby crimper.

For cable, talk with AES. Download their amperage chart and calculate the size cable you need and note that they will supply all cables by the meter.

Let me know if I can help in any way.

[smo17003]

I haven't used them myself but I have found this company's website quite informative for auto electrics.

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-si ... ction.html

[RichardHawkins]

Andy,

I have mainly used vehicle wiring products.

Richard Hawkins

[m1dge]

Thanks everyone for your replies.

Autosparks has all the colours I need so just need to decide on standard cables for originality or thin wall for higher ratings and more space behind dash. I'm leaning toward thin wall with multi pin connectors and led bulbs.

Andy

[mikealdren]

I'm looking at a similar project and planning to use thin wall, a lot of time has passed since our cars were new and I plan to use far more fuses and relays too. I'll also use solid state voltage regulators and indicator switches and more modern loom connectors. I'm building a Zetec car so a few things are different but I'll stick to Lotus/Lucas wiring colours as appropriate

[Quart Meg Miles]

Motor cars are industrial assemblies in which people wield angular tools and heavy items in tight spaces and often are not in control of their movements. An OE cable would tolerate a nip from a swinging engine against a chassis edge or the slip of a screwdriver, would a thin wall cable?

[Andy8421]

I haven't used them myself but I have found this company's website quite informative for auto electrics.

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-si ... ction.html

I had a look at this site out of interest. It is excellent - thank you for bringing it to our attention.

The old saw that 'you have to be a real expert to explain something simple' would appear to apply here. The explanations are great, and it is one of the few automotive sites that explains voltage drop as a criteria for cable size selection as well as absolute current carrying capacity. They also identify that the earth return needs to be taken into account in voltage drop calculations, very pertinent to glass fibre cars without a convenient steel shell as an earth. The sections on fusing and relays are also very good.

To be picky, they don't differentiate between the current carrying capability of a wire in free air vs buried in the middle of a loom, but that is a minor point.

Armed with this site and the site that describes how to crimp cables properly (which I have lost the link to, but will search for) there is no reason why an owner couldn't create a very successful loom.

[Quart Meg Miles]

I agree with Andy on the quality of 12voltplanet's article; be generous with the cable thickness and keep high current wires on the outside.

ThinWall cables are more brittle and don't like sharp bends and, I speculate, might not survive impacts too well. Remember, broken insulation exposes the conducting wire to environmental deterioration as well as possible short circuits. On the other hand they might not melt as easily if there is a fault or damage elsewhere [been there].

Be careful and check each cable before connection by colour, at least, and preferably with a cheap meter.or improvised continuity tester (battery and bulb). Although Elans don't have steel bodies their backbones are excellent conductors provided they have clean and tight connections.

[HCA]

I do not know where all the comments on thinwall cable come from, but the truth is that thinwall cable is the choice of experts in auto, marine and aviation wiring. It is in fact designed to be better at carrying high current, the coating is superior to old pvc and is actuallty more resilient than older pvc. As to it being brittle is a new one on me! No, it does not like sharp bends, but so what? Where is there a sharp bend on the average car wiring loom?

I think you are trying to find fault where there is none!

Armed with this site and the site that describes how to crimp cables properly (which I have lost the link to, but will search for) there is no reason why an owner couldn't create a very successful loom.

Yes to the ease of creating a wiring loom - just follow a few best practice points and it is done.

Crimping very important, and more so if there are any plans to disconnect any terminals. The golden rule on crimping is the actual crimper. Personally I suggest that any tool under £100 will not give good results. Certainly get a crimper that has replaceable die and anvil sets.

The choice of cable thickness is up to you, but I doubt you will need anything more than .5mm, 1.0mm and 2.0mm with a 6.0mm for alternator to solenoid - depending on alternator size. To successfully crimp terminals onto these you will need two sizes of die - 0.5/1.5 and 1.0/2.5 (if you use 6.0mm for the alternator, best take it to an auto electrician who will have a 6.0 die - pointless you buying one for just two crimps)

I prefer open tunnel crimps. As my crimper is not good, I put a blob of solder on top of the crimp for which open tunnel is best. Do not use terminals for the larger 1.0 or 2.0mm wires on the 0.5mm wire as the ears will not make a secure crimp.

Final point - purchase a good wire stripper. You will struggle making a clean cut on thinwall insulation without one

Here is pretty well everything you need to know about crimping!
https://www.fscables.com/sites/admin/pl ... _guide.pdf

[Andy8421]

Hal,

The original OEM Lucas crimps used on bullet connectors in period were dual hexagonal crimps. One crimp near to the sharp end of the bullet on the 'waist' of the bullet for electrical conduction, then another hexagonal crimp at the entry of the bullet to grip the insulation as strain relief.

There are a number of threads on this in the forum. I have never found a tool that will do both crimps together, but there are tools available that will allow you do do a reasonable copy of the original as a two step process as long as you have the right bullet for the wire, and the right tool for the bullet.

I think it unlikely that a Lucas OEM copy bullet will grip the insulation on thin wall cable.

Andy.

[HCA]

Maybe I should be more clear Andy - anything I say or do with wiring will certainly only relate to using thinwall and suitable connectors!

Most definitely I would shy away from those old bulky bullets! But you are right thinwall will not be secure in old style bullets (unless soldered.)

If making a loom using thinwall and if it requires a break point, then only Junior Power blocks should be used (these require yet another die and anvil set for the crimper of course)