Foggy Gauges
6 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Post by: PWTrusty » Tue May 05, 2009 10:57 pm
Hello All,
My 30+ year Smith gauges have all got a bit of fog on the inside of the glass. Looking at a spare fuel gauge, there is no obvious means of removing the chrome bezel to access the interior. Anyone had any experience in opening Mr Smiths little boxes?
Phil in Tennessee
72 +2/130 ( wishing for a 5 speed some day)
My 30+ year Smith gauges have all got a bit of fog on the inside of the glass. Looking at a spare fuel gauge, there is no obvious means of removing the chrome bezel to access the interior. Anyone had any experience in opening Mr Smiths little boxes?
Phil in Tennessee
72 +2/130 ( wishing for a 5 speed some day)
- PWTrusty
- First Gear
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- Joined: 21 Nov 2006
Post by: msd1107 » Tue May 05, 2009 11:34 pm
There may be some differences between some of the gauges.
Turn the gauge upside down. Looking at the chrome bezel, there should be three indendations which squeeze the bezel against the housing. Using a jewelers screwdriver (or other suitable instrument), gently prise the indentations out. The bezel can be slipped off the body.
Take out the glass. Clean it, and carefully clean the gauge face (the markings will rub off the face - be careful).
If this clears up the cosmetics, reassemble the gauge. (It may be desirable to replace the O-rings etc)
David
1968 36/7988
Turn the gauge upside down. Looking at the chrome bezel, there should be three indendations which squeeze the bezel against the housing. Using a jewelers screwdriver (or other suitable instrument), gently prise the indentations out. The bezel can be slipped off the body.
Take out the glass. Clean it, and carefully clean the gauge face (the markings will rub off the face - be careful).
If this clears up the cosmetics, reassemble the gauge. (It may be desirable to replace the O-rings etc)
David
1968 36/7988
-
msd1107 - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 770
- Joined: 24 Sep 2003
Post by: Frank Howard » Tue May 05, 2009 11:53 pm
You don't have to pry up the tabs. Just twist the bezel so the tabs line up with nothing to hold them and the bezel should come off.
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
- Frank Howard
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Post by: CBUEB1771 » Wed May 06, 2009 12:08 pm
Frank Howard wrote:You don't have to pry up the tabs.
Never pry the tabs up, they will break off very easily. Frank is correct, rotate the bezel until the tabs align with with the slots in the instrument housing. I have seem examples where there are more tabs than slots. In this case you can usually get two tab/slot pairs to align and then gently lift the bezel from one side and then slip it off to the other side.
Russ Newton
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
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CBUEB1771 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Post by: msd1107 » Wed May 06, 2009 3:17 pm
Good advice to rotate the bezel instead of prying out the securing tabs.
Unfortunately, I have never been able to rotate the bezel on any of my gauges, which is why I use a jewelers screwdriver to loosen it. A rusty case does not allow the bezel to rotate. Does anybody have hints on freeeing up the bezel so it can be rotated?
Maybe I have been lucky (or cautious) but none of the metal tabs broke. But then I don't do this on a daily basis.
David
1968 36/7988
Unfortunately, I have never been able to rotate the bezel on any of my gauges, which is why I use a jewelers screwdriver to loosen it. A rusty case does not allow the bezel to rotate. Does anybody have hints on freeeing up the bezel so it can be rotated?
Maybe I have been lucky (or cautious) but none of the metal tabs broke. But then I don't do this on a daily basis.
David
1968 36/7988
-
msd1107 - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 770
- Joined: 24 Sep 2003
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