Lights

[bcmc33]

As part of my winter projects I intend to convert the headlights to halogen. I know I need to uprate the solenoids and cables which is well within my capabilities. Some time ago I read a thread that gave a good source of all the necessary parts based in Tamworth Staffs, which is only 20 minutes from where I live.
Unfortunately I cannot find the link to this source - can anyone help?

Thanks in anticipation


Brian Clarke

[steveww]

I get all my automotive electrical bits from http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/

You name it they stock it.

[iain.hamlton]

Brian,

I think the folks in Tamworth are: http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/

best regards, iain

[bcmc33]

Thanks a lot Steve and Iain.
Brain dead or what? How could I possibly have forgotten Staffordshire?
The only excuse I have is that Microsoft did an update before I saved SCV to my favourites.


Brian Clarke

[poiuyt]

Why is it necessary to upgrade the electrical system to install Halogens? A 55/60 watt incandescent does not draw any more current than a 55/60 watt halogen.

Steve B

[iain.hamlton]

Steve. You are right, of course. Halogens wont pull any more current than equivalently-rated sealed beams. However I think it wise to check the wiring out. According to the wiring diagrams there should already be relays.

I have just done the the conversion myself, and the driving at night is transformed.

best regards, iain

[hatman]

Been thinking about this conversion myself. Which halogens did you opt for/recommend?

[peterako]

SteveB wrote:

'Why is it necessary to upgrade the electrical system to install Halogens? A 55/60 watt incandescent does not draw any more current than a 55/60 watt halogen.'

Hi Steve and indeed eveyone!

Of course you're right....in theory....

But have you ever experienced your car's lights going out due to the
good old fashioned 'thermal cutout' used on the light circuits with the
original lighting???

A bit frightening to say the least.

I immediately upgrated all my wiring and relayied/inline-fused teh headlights to take the current draw away from the original
thinner wire and the thermal circuits.
That alone made a huge difference in both light output with the
original sealed beams and in night time driving terror...

I'm currently experimenting with Halogen units....another massive
leap forward.

Yep, in theory the old wiring should take the halogens, with same
current draw, but in practice it seems that they have problems anyway
even with the original units.

Don't take any chances, re-wire and relay. Luckily when my car
went to complete darness I was at a reduced speed on a road I
know like the back of my hand....otherwise I might not be writing
this today.....

Do it hatman! Do it!!!

Take care,
Peter 1973 +2S 130/5 (now a muddy colour from the
good old tractors and trucks
on the winter Irish roads....)

[iain.hamlton]

Hatman,

I just used some second hand halogen unit my brother used to have on his rangerover classic. As far as I know, all halogen conversions are a direct replacement of a sealed beam and are the same.

best regards, iain

[Robbie693]

I've been reading up on installing relays to the headlamps and think I get the gist of it...

Can someone tell me the best place to take off a power supply for the relays? Most things I have read suggest the Alternator or Battery - the battery may be more awkward as it's in the boot(?), is there somewhere else like the fusebox in the dash (S130)?

Cheers

Robbie

[tdafforn]

You could take it form the live side of the solenoid?
cheers
tim
PS had the thermal cutout, cut-in when I was driving the whole family back from a wedding alone an unlit road. Had just overtaken a Beemer X5, switched to full beam and wham, no lights (inside or outside the car!). Scream from the wife, 90 degree bend coming up, managed to get round by using the beamer's headlights (lucky our cars are so low, his headlights went over the +2). flipped to dipped and everything cam back on. Not sure what the guy from the beamer thought thought!

[iain.hamlton]

Robbie,

First, check if there is already a relay. If there is, still figure out how it is connected, and that everything is done well.

If not, there is perhaps no single right answer, but it is good if everything is fused, and it is important that the circuit you tap into it properly rated. Lights are best wired from the unswitched supply. So i suggest you check if there is capacity on the fused but unswitched side of the fuse box. Mine is the very old type with only two fuses - one switched and one unswitched. I don't know how the 130 is wired.

Worst case, but safest, run a new wire of greater than 10 Amp rating from the battery side of the starter solenoid to a new fuse (in-line, incorporated in the relay, or new fuse box), and then to your relay. Use the existing lighting circuit to control the relay.

good luck,

iain

[Robbie693]

Ah yes, of course.

Which terminal exactly - the big brown one from the battery?

Forgive my electrical ignorance!

[iain.hamlton]

Your connection should be electrically the same at the battery. The solenoid has two big connections. One goes to the starter; the other comes directly from the hot side of the battery. You can put an eye on the end of the wire and connect it here, or check if there is another connection electrically the same. Use a voltmeter to find if there is any other point on solenoid showing 12v with the ignition off.

best regards, iain

[Robbie693]

Cool, I'll have a go.

Cheers Iain