Clutch Problems With Elan +2s130/4. Advice Please!
6 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Hi,
I have an Elan +2S130/4 (1973). It has a problem with the clutch. If the clutch is fully depressed the car goes into gear fine, but as you release the pedal the drive suddenly comes in. It's like an on/off switch rather than a gradual progression from no drive to drive. The car has been unmoved for 8 months.
What can it be,
1. worn out clutch
2. incorrect adjustment of the clutch pedal (clutch needs bleeding)
3. Just out of use and will get progressive with use.
4. ? (any other possibilities)
My feeling is that the clutch pedal action is a bit soft so some seal may have gone in master cylinder or slave (option 2. above), but I can't see how this would give the effect it is.
If the answer is 1. how hard is it to change the clutch? Engine and gearbox totally removed from car?
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Ed
I have an Elan +2S130/4 (1973). It has a problem with the clutch. If the clutch is fully depressed the car goes into gear fine, but as you release the pedal the drive suddenly comes in. It's like an on/off switch rather than a gradual progression from no drive to drive. The car has been unmoved for 8 months.
What can it be,
1. worn out clutch
2. incorrect adjustment of the clutch pedal (clutch needs bleeding)
3. Just out of use and will get progressive with use.
4. ? (any other possibilities)
My feeling is that the clutch pedal action is a bit soft so some seal may have gone in master cylinder or slave (option 2. above), but I can't see how this would give the effect it is.
If the answer is 1. how hard is it to change the clutch? Engine and gearbox totally removed from car?
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Ed
- ed_vh
- First Gear
- Posts: 21
- Joined: 17 Sep 2003
Ed,
I think you have covered all the possible causes but my feeling would be to start at the simplest, as its stood for a while bleed the clutch and reset the adjustment on the slave cyl push rod (slight free play when pulling rod out against the spring)
if this does not help the chance's are you are in for a clutch job, the clutch plate could be contaminated with oil or rust or just simply worn out. To remove the clutch you need to take out the engine although its sometimes easier to remove the engine and g/box as a unit. If it is possible to drive it slight rust contamination on the flywheel/pressure plate may improve with use.
Good luck,
Brian
64Elan/72Sprint/J.P.S.Europa
I think you have covered all the possible causes but my feeling would be to start at the simplest, as its stood for a while bleed the clutch and reset the adjustment on the slave cyl push rod (slight free play when pulling rod out against the spring)
if this does not help the chance's are you are in for a clutch job, the clutch plate could be contaminated with oil or rust or just simply worn out. To remove the clutch you need to take out the engine although its sometimes easier to remove the engine and g/box as a unit. If it is possible to drive it slight rust contamination on the flywheel/pressure plate may improve with use.
Good luck,
Brian
64Elan/72Sprint/J.P.S.Europa
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
-
types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3407
- Joined: 11 Sep 2003
Ed,
I just experienced the same type of clutch problem you discribed on a car that had sat for 10 years. I installed a new master cylinder due to a worn inner sleeve. I also used a rebuild kit for the slave cylinder and adjusted the play per the manual.
I still had the on off at about 1/4 inch off the floor. There is no clutch pedal adjustment. I found that the master cylinder pushrod clevis attached to the clutch pedal had worn the hole where the pin goes through. I removed the master and welded clevis hole and redrilled. (plus a little further out)
It now works like brand new and feels great.
Hope this helps
Randy
I just experienced the same type of clutch problem you discribed on a car that had sat for 10 years. I installed a new master cylinder due to a worn inner sleeve. I also used a rebuild kit for the slave cylinder and adjusted the play per the manual.
I still had the on off at about 1/4 inch off the floor. There is no clutch pedal adjustment. I found that the master cylinder pushrod clevis attached to the clutch pedal had worn the hole where the pin goes through. I removed the master and welded clevis hole and redrilled. (plus a little further out)
It now works like brand new and feels great.
Hope this helps
Randy
- dhcelan
- New-tral
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 19 Oct 2003
had the same problem , found it was the slave cylinder, it had got a bit grungy over the years, so when I let out the clutch the piston was sitting on a ring of gloop and then suddenly overcoming the friction and meeting the actuator rod further down the bore, so it appeared as it the clutch was on or off, a nice cheap slave cylinder rebuild kit and a good clean fixed it.
-
LaikaTheDog - Third Gear
- Posts: 306
- Joined: 29 Oct 2003
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