Lotus Elan

Clutch line routing????

PostPost by: nomad » Thu Jun 13, 2024 5:59 pm

I'm trying to route my 50+ year old plastic clutch line and really can't see a good way to do it. Do I give up and build or buy a different line? If I fit the U shaped end to the master, the plastic line runs close to the exhaust. U shaped end at the slave helps to route the line away from the exhaust but the right angled end doesn't work at the master....

Maybe run it outside the frame and chafing against the fiberglass??

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PostPost by: GLB » Thu Jun 13, 2024 7:50 pm

I know its not correct but I put a banjo fitting on the slave end to get a little more clearance from the exhaust and wrapped the hose in firesleeve. Also made a stainless heat shield on the exhaust near the slave. Gary
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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Thu Jun 13, 2024 8:00 pm

nomad wrote:I'm trying to route my 50+ year old plastic clutch line and really can't see a good way to do it. Do I give up and build or buy a different line? If I fit the U shaped end to the master, the plastic line runs close to the exhaust. U shaped end at the slave helps to route the line away from the exhaust but the right angled end doesn't work at the master....

Maybe run it outside the frame and chafing against the fiberglass??

Kurt


I tried installing a plastic line for originality because the DPO had made up a piece of hard line that cracked down by the slave cylinder fitting. I also had issue with routing the line so it would not melt with exhaust heat. I was not successful. The plastic line lasted about 6 months. It melted and failed during a long 4th gear climb up I-70 from Denver to Loveland, so I got to do rolling starts into first gear and shift without the clutch the whole way home....

I eventually made up a new hose of braided stainless with AN fittings almost exactly like the one RD Enterprises sells. I did slit some 7/16" fuel hose and slipped it over the braid because it started to act like a hacksaw on anything it touched.
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PostPost by: nomad » Fri Jun 14, 2024 12:39 am

Well, you guys have confirmed my fears. Looks like I will be doing some modification. While we are at it....can all the air be gotten out of the slave? I was thinking of removing the snap ring and turning the slave so the bleeder is at the top of it while bleeding. If that is not worth the trouble I will abandon it. The piston may actually exclude nearly all of the air with the bleeder where it is.

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PostPost by: nomad » Fri Jun 14, 2024 12:44 am

GLB wrote:I know its not correct but I put a banjo fitting on the slave end to get a little more clearance from the exhaust and wrapped the hose in firesleeve. Also made a stainless heat shield on the exhaust near the slave. Gary


Gary, you have got me thinking. I wonder if a stainless brake hose could be plumbed to work better than what Lotus came up with..... :roll:

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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Fri Jun 14, 2024 1:42 am

Before I got a pressure bleeder, I held the slave up in the air above the master to bleed it while my neighbor pressed on the clutch. Messy but it worked. I used two circlips to take up the slack of fit with the loop in the bell housing to get more useful travel.

I bought a pressure bleeder about 35 years ago, so I can do it myownself now.
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PostPost by: nomad » Fri Jun 14, 2024 1:59 am

StressCraxx wrote:Before I got a pressure bleeder, I held the slave up in the air above the master to bleed it while my neighbor pressed on the clutch. Messy but it worked. I used two circlips to take up the slack of fit with the loop in the bell housing to get more useful travel.

I bought a pressure bleeder about 35 years ago, so I can do it myownself now.


My standard procedure has been to fit a clear tube to the bleeder and run that back into the master. Pump slowly till I see no more bubbles. Your procedure of doing the slave bleeding before fitting may be the best option. First I'm going to have to figure out the plumbing!

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PostPost by: smo17003 » Fri Jun 14, 2024 9:04 am

If clutch bleeding is a concern, then perhaps fitting a remote bleed nipple is a fix. Some more info here viewtopic.php?f=37&t=53000&p=386184&hilit=+bleed#p386184
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PostPost by: Craven » Fri Jun 14, 2024 11:55 am

If you are happy with the slightly exposed position, many route the line under the bellhousing using one of the small bolts for a clip.

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PostPost by: nomad » Fri Jun 14, 2024 8:00 pm

What I'm going to try is routing through the large lightening hole in the frame then forward between the body and the frame rail till i can route it up to the port side of the master. That will isolate it from exhaust heat unless the frame gets hot enough to melt plastic. Flexing due to engine vibration will be the main concern causing chafing of the tube against the frame. OOrrr, just ordering RD's hose......

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PostPost by: JeffP » Sat Jun 15, 2024 12:35 am

I recently bought and fitted the clutch line upgrade from Kelvedon in the UK for my 69 Plus2 and it fits really well. It is protected with braided stainless steel and looks as it it will be a big improvement
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PostPost by: bitsobrits » Sat Jun 15, 2024 2:02 am

On a couple of my Elans, I used a braided PTFE flex line from the slave cylinder up to the horizontal top chassis rail just in front of the firewall, through a bulkhead fitting, then rigid line to the MC.
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PostPost by: GLB » Sat Jun 15, 2024 2:33 am

Kurt. Here is a picture from the top looking down at frame rail. The silver on the left is the thermostat extension of the head. I have pulled the line with firesleeve out from under the body. Normally you can't see it. This picture is over size so I can' t upload but one. I'll send another from underneath. The line is routed back to the side of the bellhousing and curves forward to the slave. You'll see it in the next picture in the next post. I hope it makes sense to you. I have tried to keep it as far away from the exhaust as possible. The exhaust header is the original cast iron manifold. from the manifold back is SS custom made by a friend who makes exotic exhaust system. I traded him some fiberglass repairs on a boat for the system. good for both of us. Gary


IMG_0570resized.JPG and
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PostPost by: GLB » Sat Jun 15, 2024 2:56 am

Here is a photo from underneath. The exhaust resonator can be seen and the line comes in from the backside of the bellhousing to the banjo fitting. I've never had any trouble with it in several years including the trip to LOG in Salt Lake City and that was a hot trip. Just how I did it. I hope it gives you some ideas. The orange fire sleeve is an aircraft product from either Wicks aircraft supply or Aircraft Spruce and Specialty. No affiliation with them. Gary
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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Sat Jun 15, 2024 4:12 am

Gary,

Nice and tidy with the banjo fitting and firesleeve.
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