Angle drive quill

[skelteanema]

Hi all,

on my last run, the speedometer suddenly started wavering and then died. Turns ot the magnetic rotor wheel in the speedometer seized, and the system failed at its weakest point, the quill in the right angle drive. I have pulled the speedometer apart and have managed to free up the magnetic rotor, and hopefully I can put it back together without damaging the return spring, losing/damaging the tiny springs on the pawls, or doing some other catastrophic damage....

What I am asking is whether the quills from the angle drive are available anywhere? I have ordered a new right angle drive. However, I would like to refurbish the old one and keep it as a spare if the quills are available. Also, how does one remove the broken quill from the drive? Is it a press fit or is there some trick to removing it?

Thanks

[jono]

Caterham used to sell them for a few quid I seem to recall.

[prezoom]

I had the quill come loose in the angle drive. In the process of getting it repaired, I found that there are 2 sizes of quills. Also, not all angle drives are the same, i.e., one for a MG is not the same as the one used in my Elan. Was able to get the original repaired by a local speedometer shop.

[jono]

gone up a bit since I last bought one!

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/clutch-cabl ... e-end.html

[skelteanema]

Thanks Jono, I looked on the caterham site but could not find the part. I have ordered one so we will see how it fits

[reb53]

Hi Skelte,
I assume you know the trick when reassembling your speedo to have it read within a bull's roar of what it did before you pulled it apart ?
When you put the actual needle back on put it on pointing at the little dot that is before the zero.
Then lift it up and over it's stop.
That way you'll have the pretension it was originally calibrated with.
In theory anyway.....

Ralph.
Napier.

[skelteanema]

Hi Ralph,

yes I did read a lot of the information available. I found the article by Anthony Rhodes on Jaeger and Smith speedo repair particularly helpful as well as a few videos on similar speedos. I did note where the needle was when lifted over the stop, and also marked the drag cup just to be sure. The hardest part so far has been getting the mechanism out of the casing, it is not a loose fit to say the least. Bezel and glass removal was easier than expected. I had already ordered seals and spare glass because the old seals had oozed out from behind the bezel and were in need of replacement. This has accelerated my need to replace these seals.

I have dismantled it, cleaned it up and freed up the magnetic rotor. I will reassemble this weekend, and as long as I don't fire the small springs into oblivion, I will test it with a drill to check it is working.

Skelte

[snowyelan]

Something worth checking 'while you're in there' is the small gear that drives the odometer. It can split and was the cause of my speedometer issues which eventually led to the angle drive failing.

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=50747&start=0

[skelteanema]

Thanks Scott,

I did read your posts on the split gear before I started and thought that I may have had the same problem. Luckily it seems it was only a seized magnet rotor, which I have now freed up. All the rest of the internals actually looks to be in good nick. I suppose the question is: are we supposed the lubricate the speedometer magnet rotor once every 57 years or more frequently ,

[skelteanema]

Hi all,

I have successfully reassembled the speedo mechanism and it seems to be working as it should. One final question.

Does it need any lubrication on the gears and pivot points? I have read a few articles, and they suggest no lubrication. I did lubricate the magnet rotor spindle with a light grease as described in the Rhodes article, but no other mention of lubrications is given.

I should say, when I replaced the very small springs, I threaded a very fine fishing nylon through the holes. This made reattachment easy, and has the bonus that if the spring detached, it wouldn't fly away.

[skelteanema]

Hi peoples,

Just a head up. I received the quill from Caterham today. Although the width is correct and it neatly fits into the angle drive, it is much too short. The Caterham one is 4cm long whereas the original is 6cm long. When installed, it does not extend sufficiently far to engage with the gearbox drive.

I could possibly braze/solder a square section to make it fit and I would attempt this if I was desperate; however, I did order a replacement angle drive and will fit this in the meantime.

[smo17003]

Just an idea, would making one from a piece of carbon fibre square bar work?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404736325134 ... 4737818613

[Craven]

Lots on here about this. one end of quill is brazed to a force fit sleeve, any low yield metal will do.

IMG_1630.JPG (93.42 KiB) Viewed 685 times

[skelteanema]

Hi Craven,

mine didn't have the sleeve brazed on one end. It was just a 6cm long piece with sqaured ends. One end was a tight fit into the angle drive, the other end was a loose fit into the gearbox.