Lotus Elan

Any tips or cautions on throw out assembly?

PostPost by: 2cams70 » Sat Jul 18, 2020 2:14 am

FKC are good quality bearings. I think they were of Japanese manufacture. I used them during the 90's with no issues.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sat Jul 18, 2020 2:48 am

miked wrote:Just to complete, my friend came back to me re thrust bearing.
I will see if i can mount the photos.

The number on the box of the FKC 6W-1 3/8. bearing is 408504 whereas the number etched/printed on the latest replacement bearing is 405804. All the right numbers but not necessarily in the right order as Eric Morcambe would say.

The number 408504 hand written on the box is I believe the SKF bearing equivalent number to the RHP and FKC 6W - 1 3/8 number thats printed on the box. I have a NOS FKC one in a box exactly the same. The list below is the numbers I have tracked down. These all had plastic inner sleeves of various colours except the FAG and I believe the SKF ones which were brass like the cheap new no name ones. My no name bearings dont have that 405804 number etched on the face

Original Manufacturer Number
Ford 105E7580
Ford 105E7580B
RHP 6W 1 3/8
FAG 508458
Timken 1375
FKC 6W 1 3/8
SKF 408504

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PostPost by: 0005K » Sat Jul 18, 2020 9:51 pm


I'm about to reinstall trans and engine in my S4. They have been married before with no clutch removal so I think all should line up again. The throw out bearing was new and unused and not rusted. I'm going to fit the trans first - by itself- as I cannot remove the rear prop-shaft bolts from the differential. - Incredibly difficult to access.....
Question: 2 Dowel rods were threaded rods, correct? How long?
I'm planning on using the engine lift to install the trans first and support it at 10 degrees with some wood blocks. In your opinion would a small trolley jack under the trans be a better choice?
This post was very helpful and timely.

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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sun Jul 19, 2020 12:00 am

would a small trolley jack under the trans be a better choice?

You could dabble, and use both.
As you may need/want a platform there anyway. For when your undoing straps, or however your lifting the transmission
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PostPost by: jgrover » Sun Jul 19, 2020 3:27 pm

I just replaced my clutch for the first time and was dreading putting the engine back in, but in the end it went well.

My advice is:
Take your time - if it doesn't go in then try to see where mating surfaces are not parallel, remove engine and adjust engine in hoist. I did this 4 times before getting it spot on.
The string tip worked well.
Grease pivot points at back of arm and on push surfaces to rear of thrust bearing carrier.
I did this single handed, but someone working the hoist and someone judging location would have been better.

Good luck

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Jul 19, 2020 4:08 pm

If you put in gear, it can help also then you can turn the Crankshaft to help Splines line up.
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PostPost by: 0005K » Fri Jul 24, 2020 3:20 pm

Many thanks for all of the recommendations.
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PostPost by: 0005K » Tue Aug 04, 2020 3:02 pm

More tips - as we just reinstalled two days ago. Remove the solenoid and the fuse box from the firewall for clearance. The clutch slave cylinder should also be removed. We removed the transmission cross member from the frame. Lifting straps may contact oil fill cap so I removed it. There is more wiggle room with the radiator side support brackets removed. Remove the nylon cap and gear selector from the transmission - first - not halfway through the process! The handbrake cable got in the way so now I need to re-feed it through the tunnel. We were finally successful in installing the engine and transmission as one unit without removing the rear driveshaft to differential bolts - but it wasn't easy. We had both front and rear of the car raised for clearance to the engine hoist legs and clearance for a person near the rear of the transmission - and to keep the car horizontal. A trolley jack was very helpful to lift and slide the tail of the transmission into the tunnel. The "Bellhouse Jam" is REAL. As my exhaust was not installed we raised the car at the rear end of the frame tunnel and lowered it onto a jack stand while also contacting the rear tires onto bricks for stability. To align the spline to the driveshaft the rear was lifted slightly further allowing a rear wheel to be turned to engage the splines. You will want to reconnect the speedo cable to the right angle drive, and reinstall the clutch slave cylinder while it is still up in the air. It took 3 of us 6 hours - so obviously we had some "opportunities".....but it is done!
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