Push rod travel

PostPost by: s28ven » Sun Dec 29, 2019 9:58 am

Can anyone advise on how far the clutch push rod should travel?

I am pretty sure the clutch is seized to the flywheel although the clutch pedal has a very short travel and doesn?t feel quite rite, although I have never actually driven the car.

It is a S3 SE.

The master and slave have both just been replaced by a garage and going by the other issues I have uncovered on their work I?m not convinced it is the correct parts that have been fitted. Can anyone confirm how far the push rod should travel on full depress of the pedal.

Thanks,

Steven
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PostPost by: Foxie » Sun Dec 29, 2019 3:13 pm

The clutch pedal in my Plus 2 has 2 1/2" travel.

It would go more, but I have fitted an adjustable limit stop in the pedal box.

But I think you need to investigate your "sticking clutch" clutch a bit more.

Is the slave pushrod adjustment correct ?

Can you turn the engine on the starter with the car in neutral ?

Can you turn the engine on the starter with the car in gear, and the clutch pedal pressed ?

Can you start and run the engine in neutral ?

A basic clutch unsticking technique is to try to turn the engine on the starter, in gear, clutch pressed, with full brakes applied.

If the engine (and flywheel/clutch ) is brought to operating temperature, it can help. Maybe even heat/cooled a few times

There are other more drastic techniques if the above fails :shock:

BTW, what other issues with the recent work were uncovered ?
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PostPost by: s28ven » Sun Dec 29, 2019 5:07 pm

To be honest there are a number of smaller issues such as

Tuning the car with both vacuum points open ended
Earth points not connected
Loosing the old ignition barrel and only key for door/boot
Not rewiring drivers electric window

I dont want to try any methods for freeing the clutch until I?ve brought up to temp and cooled down a few times.

Just have no confidence they have fitted the correct master/slave to give the correct amount of travel on the clutch. I know the clutch plate and flywheel was stuck before it went into them though.

Thanks,

Steven
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Tue Dec 31, 2019 5:45 am

When master Cylinders are replaced you must use the old Push Rod. The Push Rods on new Master Cylinders are too long which stop the Piston returning correctly to end of Bore.
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PostPost by: PaulH » Tue Dec 31, 2019 1:25 pm

Hello Steven,
I had an issue when replacing my master cylinders in that the brake and clutch pedals ended up at different heights/positions. It turned out that the push rod in my replacement clutch master cylinder was the incorrect length. I was able to buy a replacement push rod to use with the new master cylinder. I've shown some of the push rod detail in this video, at 1:37
https://youtu.be/--kkeSlUZt0

My car is a 1966 S2 but it might help.
Paul
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PostPost by: Foxie » Tue Dec 31, 2019 2:51 pm

PaulH wrote:Hello Steven,
I had an issue when replacing my master cylinders in that the brake and clutch pedals ended up at different heights/positions. It turned out that the push rod in my replacement clutch master cylinder was the incorrect length. I was able to buy a replacement push rod to use with the new master cylinder. I've shown some of the push rod detail in this video, at 1:37
https://youtu.be/--kkeSlUZt0
Paul

Hi Paul,
You don't mention it in your post, but I see in the video the replacement pushrod is adjustable, which is a great advantage in fine tuning the operation of the pedals and master cylinders.

When I was refurbishing my brake box a long time ago, I made up adjustable pushrods. I cut rectangular opening in the top of the brake box for access.

Now I see from the video the adjustable pushrods are available from Rimmer Bros.

:)
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