Lotus Elan

Stale donuts?

PostPost by: webrest7 » Tue Jan 23, 2018 1:42 pm

JonB wrote:How is the rear disk attached with the Elantrikbits setup?

As per normal except the three bolts are connected to the flange bolted to the outer CV. The bolts go through the holes in the disc.
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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Tue Jan 23, 2018 11:27 pm

mbell wrote:
StressCraxx wrote:
Good catch. Contact JAE Parts, Dave Bean Engineering or RD Enterprises. They all sell the same well made kit to convert to CV Joints. The replacement donuts are of poor quality now.

Worth every penny.

http://www.jaeparts.com/

http://davebean.com/

http://www.rdent.com/


I have these on my plus two and think they are a very good option as they also replace the output shaft. This gives them increased length and reduced angles of deflection. While I am not certain but they may avoid the need to got travel limiter on an elan as needed but a lot of the other options.

They are the most expensive option, more than trickbits but you are getting new out put shaft too which are another common failure point.


The above CV kit absolutely does not require droop limiters. They have been properly engineered.
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PostPost by: paddy » Wed Jan 24, 2018 12:15 am

JonB wrote:How is the rear disk attached with the Elantrikbits setup?


The shaft is a direct replacement for the usual shaft plus donuts - that is, the CV joints are mounted on adaptor plates whose outer face mates with the driveshaft spider. Studs in the adaptor plate go though the spider and through the disc in the same way as the donut bolts. See:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/AWq3FTdlC3E/maxresdefault.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWq3FTdlC3E

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PostPost by: SENC » Wed Jan 24, 2018 12:37 am

Decided on and have placed an order for the CV conversion from elantrikbits. Without a doubt Col's participation on this forum and multiple user testimonials were among the final differentiators for me - though I suspect I would have been happy with any of the major alternatives. Thanks to all for your guidance - and I'll share details on delivery and installation in this thread as they occur.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Jan 24, 2018 8:22 am

Good job you didn't drive and have them break :shock:
I will follow your post to see what you think of the Aussie CVs.
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PostPost by: theelanman » Wed Jan 24, 2018 8:30 am

alan.barker wrote:Good job you didn't drive and have them break :shock:
I will follow your post to see what you think of the Aussie CVs.
Alan


I had one fail on me........a chunk of rubber came away from between the metal plates........
no damage
if the bolts fail then its a different matter......you have a flail spinning under the car and it could make a rfight old mess
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PostPost by: SENC » Mon Jan 29, 2018 4:01 am

Driver's side drive and donuts removed - and definitely glad I looked. That crack was all the way through, and it took no effort to tear it into 3 pieces - not sure why it didn't give on the road, but thankful! A bit longer job than I expected, but hopefully learned a few things that will make the passenger side move a bit more quickly.

20180128_202018.jpg and


20180128_202057.jpg and


Two things of note to ask the experts:
1) What am I missing on this shock absorber?
20180128_121512.jpg and


Quite different than the other side:
20180128_121623.jpg and


2) Lots of moisture spattered above the diff - routine or sign of a seal failure?
20180128_130652.jpg and
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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Mon Jan 29, 2018 4:47 am

SENC wrote:Two things of note to ask the experts:
1) What am I missing on this shock absorber?


Quite different than the other side:
20180128_121623.jpg


2) Lots of moisture spattered above the diff - routine or sign of a seal failure?
20180128_130652.jpg


1) What am I missing on this shock absorber?
It appears the shroud is missing and the bump stop is disintegrated. The shock is probably leaking. Time to replace the shocks and the "Lotocone bushings" above them.

2) Lots of moisture spattered above the diff - routine or sign of a seal failure?
The pinion seal is leaking. It needs to be replaced. The leaking oil from the diff causes the rubber bushings on the torque rods and in the suspension wishbones to disintegrate quickly. Since you have it apart, it's a good time to replace the pinion seal. In addition, check both ujoints in the drive shaft. They do not move much but do wear out. They cause an unpleasant vibration.
Expect to replace the upper diff mounting bushes and the track rod bushings (shock absorber rubber bushes). Since you have the wishbones off, replace the bushings in them as well.

Yes, its a lot of work and significant expense. The improvement in ride and handling is worth every penny.

I'm putting all the pieces together to refurbish mine.

Regards,
Dan
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon Jan 29, 2018 6:55 am

What a coincidence, this is exactly what I'm doing. Check my thread for details.

lotus-gearbox-f37/pinion-oil-seal-t41056.html

It looks like you have the billet output shafts fitted to your diff. Nice. By the way, I don't consider the expense too significant unless you are going to fit CV joints. I had to replace an outer driveshaft and bearings, pinion seal, torque rod bushes and the driveshafts (for CV jointed). While I am there I'm doing the suspension arm bushes, too.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Mon Jan 29, 2018 10:19 am

Senc,
do you have a Diff Brace on your car. If not i suggest you fit one
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PostPost by: SENC » Mon Jan 29, 2018 12:15 pm

Thanks, Dan. One thing does lead to another, doesn't it! I'll search the forum, but what are the current shock recommendations? Overwhelmingly highest use will be road use, maybe some rallies in the future.

Yes, Jon, I've been following that and your other threads with much interest. I was hoping to do a minor refresh to keep things rolling for a couple years in anticipation of a major renovation, but as you are I am finding it hard not to address the "next thing" so a back-end overhaul has materialized in my future as well. I have decided to convert to CVs, too, and have an order in with Col at elantrikbits. Will have to trade notes as we go along.

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PostPost by: JonB » Mon Jan 29, 2018 1:05 pm

Those Elantrikbits shafts also have outer driveshafts, don't they?

In other words, you'll be doing the hub bearings, too. Oh, getting the hubs off, what a pig of a job!

Take care with the diff, it's heavy and tricky to get out if you have a folded steel chassis. Also, it probably has much more oil in it than you think - mine did, despite having more spray than I see in your picture. I thought it was dry, but no, there must have been a litre still in there, and very clean too. Some reminders from my thread:

  • Mark up the diff and propshaft flanges before you undo them , so you can put them back the same way round. Look on the edge of the flanges, you may find marks already (mine has them).
  • Mark the pinion nut, shaft and inner flange. Count the revolutions as you undo the nut, restore to exactly the same position on reassembly.
  • Smear the new seal's rubber lip with grease prior to reassembly.
  • Put Wellseal on the thread and splines prior to reassembly. Not too much. Wipe off the excess when you refit the flange to the splined shaft. This will prevent oil creeping past the splines and thread.
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PostPost by: paddy » Mon Jan 29, 2018 2:20 pm

JonB wrote:Those Elantrikbits shafts also have outer driveshafts, don't they?

In other words, you'll be doing the hub bearings, too.


They're a direct replacement for the standard shafts + donuts - no need to replace the driveshaft at either end.

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PostPost by: JonB » Mon Jan 29, 2018 2:48 pm

Ah OK, my bad. I seem to recall seeing a set with outboard shafts, though they might have been inpboard ones (that is, to fit into the diff). Sorry!
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PostPost by: mbell » Mon Jan 29, 2018 7:31 pm

JonB wrote:Ah OK, my bad. I seem to recall seeing a set with outboard shafts, though they might have been inpboard ones (that is, to fit into the diff). Sorry!


Yes Inboard/diff output shafts on the shaft available in the US.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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