Lotus Elan

CVs done. Pig of a job!

PostPost by: davidc » Sun Sep 03, 2017 10:11 am

24 seized bolts removed with a combination of penetrating oil, plus gas and drilling out. :roll:

Discs replaced at same time and suspension arms given a lick of hammerite.

20170831_202938.jpg and


Just a clean of carbs now then off for an mot. :D
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Sep 03, 2017 10:32 am

It looks like you are supporting the car only by the end of the chassis in the middle.
For me i prefer to support under the sills with a long plank between the axle stands that run the full length of the sills.
I suggest you don't leave the suspension in full droop too long because you will damage the gaiters on the CVs.
Good luck with the MOT
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Sun Sep 03, 2017 12:39 pm

Might be an illusion but your lower wishbone looks bent?
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PostPost by: davidc » Sun Sep 03, 2017 1:38 pm

Up and down in a weekend so not propped too long .

Couldn't figure the long plank method as exhaust was in the way and I couldn't get exhaust off as not enough room underneath to fit.

Lift is the way to go if I'm going to be doing more underneath work as my neck is aching!

Having suspension geometry checked as I think there's been some poorly located jacking in the past and front toe in looks uneven. :roll:
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Sun Sep 03, 2017 2:24 pm

Sorry, not trying to pick faults ....... But i think you have the wrong nuts on the disk side, does the stud protrude through the Nylock ring?
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PostPost by: Bud English » Sun Sep 03, 2017 2:54 pm

Actually, the bolts should go through from outside to inside. There's just enough room in the v at the top of the strut housing to slip them through when the bolt head and your tongue are turned just right. :wink:

Here's a pic that Gary Anderson posted awhile back.
elan_uprights-a.jpg
elan_uprights-a.jpg (53.63 KiB) Viewed 745 times
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Sun Sep 03, 2017 3:15 pm

Bud, there not Bolts but Studs.
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PostPost by: prezoom » Sun Sep 03, 2017 3:17 pm

The nuts on the outboard side of the brake disc need to be half height nyloc jam nuts, 7/16"-20. Grade 8, or NAS 364 or 365. On the NAS nuts, 364 are designed for shear, and the 365 for tension. Your choice.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Sep 03, 2017 3:35 pm

davidc wrote:Up and down in a weekend so not propped too long .

Couldn't figure the long plank method as exhaust was in the way and I couldn't get exhaust off as not enough room underneath to fit.

Lift is the way to go if I'm going to be doing more underneath work as my neck is aching!

Having suspension geometry checked as I think there's been some poorly located jacking in the past and front toe in looks uneven. :roll:

The long plank runs along under the sill from front to back on each side.
You work on one side at a time not with a plank across from left to right.
On a +2 you have the side members inside the sills each side between front and back wheel. The idea with a plank under the side is to spread the load along the length of the sill.
With the wheel removed you can then use a jack under the chapman strut to keep the drive shaft as horizontal as possible to ease fitting of CVs or Rotoflex Couplings.
Sorry if it seems that i am telling you how to suck eggs.
I hope your car passes the MOT
Alan
p.s. I think also the lower wishbone looks bent because of jacking under the wishbone :shock:
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PostPost by: davidc » Sun Sep 03, 2017 4:02 pm

Studs on kelvdon cv and yes stud passes through to nyloc stud to secure. Studs and nuts are what was provided with the kit so pretty sure are right ones :?

Ah, understand now about plank and jacking :roll: think I'd invest in lift if I have more work like that to do, really awkward working below.

Think they are a bit bent from previous poor jacking practice (not me!)

Plan on having wheel geometry checked to see if work is necessary but think from comments I already know the answer! :( anyone managed to straighten or is it new ones if too bad?
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PostPost by: William2 » Sun Sep 03, 2017 4:58 pm

I always thought that jacking the car up centrally from under the chassis was the best option. I made up a wooden U shaped block of wood that fits under the exhaust pipe and it spreads the load about 4" either side. You do need a shallow jack though!
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Sep 03, 2017 4:59 pm

I have been looking at car lifts and there are some nice scissor lifts which you use in a pair.
you can raise the car under the sills both sides at the same time or with the extensions deployed under the 4 wheels.
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PostPost by: richardcox_lotus » Sun Sep 03, 2017 5:20 pm

I'm with William on this one. You can't jack just one side high enough with a front to back support under the sill. IMHO You have to raise the whole car so you have enough room to fit yourself underneath.

If working under the rear, I have some thick planks so I raise the front to get the front wheels up 8-10 inches. Then insert planks on the floor under front wheels and lower front wheels so the car is at a tilt. Then jack similar to the picture using a U-shaped support to wrap the exhaust, but my support has about 8" extension each side, and I place it in front of the diff, where the floor stops before it tilts. I'm therefore lifting with the support on the chassis flanges, but the extensions just stop everything moving around too much between the floor and the chassis.

That then allows me to place axle stands on each Sill corner and the jack and support can be removed allowing me to slide underneath.

An alternative if the suspension is not being moved is I place an axle stand under the rear wheel nut thread (wheel off !) which keeps the axle level.

Still don't like it - would prefer a lift !!
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PostPost by: Bud English » Sun Sep 03, 2017 5:51 pm

Studs, not nuts. Duh, right you are. I haven't got around to fitting my CV conversions. Looking at the instructions that came with the ones from Elantrikbits there is a note that says the inboard studs get the full nuts, the outboard get the half nuts, and not to mix them up. :oops:
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PostPost by: paddy » Sun Sep 03, 2017 7:18 pm

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