Lotus Elan

Bronze or needle

PostPost by: prezoom » Fri Feb 03, 2017 5:15 pm

Installing a new pilot bushing. Which is best with a 2000E input shaft?
Rob Walker
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1964 Elva Mk4T Coupe (awaiting restoration)
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PostPost by: Orsom Weels » Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:03 pm

I personally think it's a case of six of one & half a dozen of the other, but would go for the bronze bush as there's nothing to go wrong. If you think about it, the crank shaft & gearbox input shaft rotate together other than when the clutch is disengaged, so for the majority of the time, the bush/bearing has nothing to do, it wouldn't even matter if it wasn't there. The clamping force of the pressure plate on the friction plate would even support the shaft. Given the little amount of work it has to do, a well lubricated bronze bush will last much longer than the clutch it's self. That said, so will a needle roller bearing :D

Regards, Tim
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Fri Feb 03, 2017 10:12 pm

As has been said they both work. If your car originally came with the bronze bush set up use that, if it came with the needle roller use that. The crank hole for the needle roller is smaller so there is not a lot of space for a bronze bush to be fitted in that situation and you will need to get a special one made if you go that route. Fitting a needle roller to a crank that came with the bronze bush requires a sleeve to be made to fit the needle roller in the larger hole

cheers
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PostPost by: prezoom » Fri Feb 03, 2017 11:08 pm

You guys are thinking like me. Just wanted some confirmation for a feel good moment. The engine is actually a Zetec that was an automatic. The stock bearing for the manual version is a needle. But, if the input shaft was happier with a bronze bearing, I have a chunk of bronze that could be turned out on the lathe. At $ 2.79 for a needle from my local parts house it is not exactly a bank breaking moment, so I will start with needle and save some time.

Thanks again.
Rob Walker
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50-0315N
1964 Sabra GT
1964 Elva Mk4T Coupe (awaiting restoration)
1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero, 302,AOD,9",rack and pinion,disc,etc,etc,etc
1954 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat Feb 04, 2017 5:04 am

I think the bronze bush is an "Oilite" bush. Porous which has been soaked in oil.
If you machine this i think it can close the surface porosity which then stops it from being self lubricating.
That's what i understand but i'm not 100% sure
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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PostPost by: nigelrbfurness » Sat Feb 04, 2017 9:42 am

A PB bush every time. I've never popped a worn or damaged one out of an engine, yet every needle roller input shaft support bearing I've seen has disintegrated.

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1970 S4SE/1760cc big valve/SA-AX block, L2s, 45DCOEs, 1978 Jensen GT, 1962 AH Sprite, Alfa-Romeo 159, 1966 Bristol Bus, 1947 AEC Regal bus.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat Feb 04, 2017 11:16 am

Have you fitted a PB bush in your 1970 S4 with a 6 bolt crankshaft.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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PostPost by: elansprint » Sat Feb 04, 2017 11:58 am

Alan when I converted my sprint to 5 speed I used a phosphor bronze oilite bush pressed into the flywheel as the needle roller used for these is a poor fit anyway that was 15 years ago no problems with it
Ian
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Sat Feb 04, 2017 7:31 pm

^^^^^^^^ This is good to know. I'm doing the same for a Lotus 5 speed for my Sprint and wondered if
it would hold up for long term. Thanks!
Greg Z
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Feb 05, 2017 5:25 pm

I've just removed the Needle Bearing from my Sprint Engine no problem, 5 mins.
I fill the spigot hole in the middle of bearing with nice thick grease then drive with hammer a 15mm dia parallel bar in. I remove and refill several times to make sure there is no air and it hydraulics the bearing out.
When i remove the Engine i always replace the Needle Bearing so it is never worn out.
Alan
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