Lotus Elan

Clutch return spring

PostPost by: vincereynard » Wed Dec 21, 2016 2:45 pm

In the ever evolving tale of what Spyder has forgotten / bal*'d up / not bothered to do.
It would appear that the clutch return spring is missing.

screenhunter_105-dec.-21-14.28.jpg and


What would be the effect of this? Does it really matter?

At the moment the gearchange gets progressively worse the warmer the car gets. Its fine when cold.
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PostPost by: el-saturn » Wed Dec 21, 2016 3:01 pm

................in which case we look at the function: these springs keep the release bearing where it should be: not touching the clutch plate and therewith wearing to the point of quick destruction! sandy
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PostPost by: lotusfan » Wed Dec 21, 2016 4:25 pm

Vince - to paraphrase el-saturn it is really important. From memory it is similar to the clutch and brake pedal return springs in the footwell.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Wed Dec 21, 2016 4:39 pm

..and keeps the operating arm in contact with the push-rod,in contact with the piston and stops any parts from going missing...

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PostPost by: vincereynard » Wed Dec 21, 2016 4:49 pm

Thanks for the replies.

Drat! I suppose that means I'll have to do something. If only a quick temporary bodge.

On a side issue, does anyone know if the spyder chassis can be jacked up at the front under the vacuum tank?
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PostPost by: Stevie-Heathie » Thu Dec 22, 2016 8:16 am

I would have thought the car would not be driveable without a clutch return spring . . . but you mention the gearchange is getting progressively worse which implies it is driveable. I might be missing something.

The springs are available from the usual suppliers.

Best
Steve
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PostPost by: bob_rich » Thu Dec 22, 2016 10:34 am

Hi Vince

I have on occasions jacked up my ?lan +2 on the tubular section that houses the vacuum reservoir. Put in soft padding to stop any gouging or cutting and or make a fitment to hold the tube so it don't slip off. The spring is readily available. It goes on and comes off quite easily and has to come off for the gap setting of the adjuster. I got my spring from Sue Miller.

Hope this helps

best of luck

Bob
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PostPost by: denicholls2 » Thu Dec 22, 2016 1:57 pm

Stevie-Heathie wrote:I would have thought the car would not be driveable without a clutch return spring . . . but you mention the gearchange is getting progressively worse which implies it is driveable. I might be missing something.


The finger springs on the clutch pressure plate will cause it (the clutch) to disengage. This spring is really about getting the hardware that forces the release bearing into those springs and the bearing itself back to a relaxed state. It is important in this role but not critical. Without it, as noted the release bearing may stay partially engaged, wearing it out much sooner, and the bits of the engagement linkage on the outside are free to wiggle back and forth and maybe fall off.

You can find a spring like this at any hardware store, it only needs to be strong enough to return the slave piston to its resting location. A stronger spring will increase pedal effort and pull things back more quickly.
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Thu Dec 22, 2016 3:06 pm

bob_rich wrote:Hi Vince
I have on occasions jacked up my ?lan +2 on the tubular section that houses the vacuum reservoir. Put in soft padding to stop any gouging or cutting and or make a fitment to hold the tube so it don't slip off.
best of luck

Bob


If necessary I shall make up a wooden U to fit over the vacuum tank. This is very much a Plan B as I have another idea how to raise it up to a working height.

denicholls2 wrote:You can find a spring like this at any hardware store, it only needs to be strong enough to return the slave piston to its resting location. A stronger spring will increase pedal effort and pull things back more quickly.



As it happens I was given a spring my the recovery service mechanic to solve a problem created by a previous, somewhat more dangerous , example of poor assembly.

As long as it is short enough to pull the release lever back, it will do for now. I'll add a "proper" spring to the growing list of bits to get.

Vince
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PostPost by: dgym » Sat Dec 24, 2016 12:16 am

please don't jack it from under the tank. Previous owners ruined my chassis doing this.
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Sat Dec 24, 2016 3:06 pm

dgym wrote:please don't jack it from under the tank. Previous owners ruined my chassis doing this.


With a Spyder chassis?
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PostPost by: elj221c » Sat Dec 24, 2016 3:23 pm

Tis fine on a Spyder but because it's round I tend to use the junction of the tube and the turret if just raising one side.
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Sat Dec 24, 2016 11:18 pm

It probably will not be necessary - I have a cunning plan!
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PostPost by: dgym » Sun Dec 25, 2016 3:34 am

Ill post pictures of my bent spyder tank when all this Xmas booze wears off. Merry Xmas!
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PostPost by: promotor » Tue Dec 27, 2016 4:03 pm

If you do decide to buy one the correct one is available here :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clutch-Fork-R ... SwT5tWHPLg

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