Lotus Elan

clutch slave cylinder bleeder thread size

PostPost by: seniorchristo » Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:37 pm

I believe they are either 1/4-28 or 3/8-24. Can someone verify?
Thanks,
Chris :)
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PostPost by: seniorchristo » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:17 pm

The reason I ask the above question is I am considering a speed bleeder at the clinder or at a remote location. Has anyone done something similar for the clutch slave cylinder?

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... RecID=5205

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Chris :D
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PostPost by: mbell » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:45 pm

I've fitted a speed bleeder directly to my slave cylinder. I think its a 3/8-24 but not 100%.
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PostPost by: seniorchristo » Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:55 pm

mbell,
And did it solve all your clutch slave bleeding issues? I've tried almost EVERYTHING and still can't get all the air out. With the speed bleeder do you open it, pump the clutch a few times, and then close it and problem solved? :roll:
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PostPost by: jk952 » Mon Sep 12, 2016 10:39 pm

Haven't used a speed bleeder, but dangled the slave overnight with mechanics wire to position the bleeder at the high point, then bled in the morning.
All the brake and clutch bits are 3/8-24.
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PostPost by: The Veg » Mon Sep 12, 2016 10:52 pm

No Speed Bleeder but I did fit a remote bleeder shortly after I got the car, but as the car has been parked ever since due to other work I can't say much either way about it- but saving the need to crawl under to bleed the clutch seems like a great idea.
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PostPost by: seniorchristo » Mon Sep 12, 2016 11:19 pm

Thanks for the input. I will go with a remotely located 3/8 - 24 speed bleeder :)
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PostPost by: mbell » Tue Sep 13, 2016 1:49 am

seniorchristo wrote:mbell,
And did it solve all your clutch slave bleeding issues? I've tried almost EVERYTHING and still can't get all the air out. With the speed bleeder do you open it, pump the clutch a few times, and then close it and problem solved? :roll:


My clutch was stuck so I am not sure at what point I successfully bleed the clutch....

My last attempt before getting the clutch free I left the pedal wedged for a few days. Then few pumps of the clutch. Wedge the pedal back down, connected a vacuum bleeder to the speed bleeder and slowly open the valve a little. The clutch pushed some fluid out and then I increased the vacuum to try pull out any remaining air and closed the bleeder.

My thinking was with the peddle down the system was sealed, so the vacuum couldn't pull any fluid out but it might pull out any air in the system. No idea if I needed to go to all that trouble, but clutch was good once I'd free'd it off.
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Tue Sep 13, 2016 9:03 am

Chris, if you're going to Pegasus, then go to this thread for my remote bleeder setup
tool-talk-f43/bleedin-the-bloody-clutch-t30421.html
Attachments
remotebleed.jpg and
remotebleed1.jpg and
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PostPost by: seniorchristo » Tue Sep 13, 2016 10:57 am

Thanks Greg
That's just the arrangement I had in mind. Pegasus also offers a bulkhead fitting so the bleeder can be rigidly mounted.
Later
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Tue Sep 13, 2016 11:05 am

seniorchristo wrote:Thanks Greg
Pegasus also offers a bulkhead fitting so the bleeder can be rigidly mounted.
Later
Chris :)


Even better yet. I'll probably do that in the future.
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PostPost by: The Veg » Tue Sep 13, 2016 5:03 pm

I did the Pegasus setup but ran it up the firewall, although at the moment it's just sticking up loose and will need to be secured at some point. I figured having the bleeder way up high would be a good thing.
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PostPost by: seniorchristo » Mon Dec 26, 2016 11:18 pm

I finally solved my clutch bleeding problem. I think the reason I had so much difficulty is because the clutch master cylinder coincidentally went bad simultaneously with rebuilding the slave cylinder. I replaced it with a new one and Bingo! I also installed a remote clutch bleeder mounted on the washer bottle bracket. Like Greg's, all parts from Pegasus including 45 degree banjo fitting, AN3 hose, bulkhead fitting and a self bleeder screw. :)
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dsc00460.jpg and
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