Lotus Elan

Clutch hose attachment

PostPost by: William2 » Wed Mar 11, 2015 4:41 pm

I have attached my new clutch hose to the slave cylinder and currently routed it as per the photo, running it close to the bell housing. I was wondering whether it is best to run it to the master cylinder with no support or is it better to P clip it to the nearby bell housing bolt for instance.
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Wed Mar 11, 2015 5:54 pm

That looks less than Ideal, my clutch line goes across the bell housing inspection plate and up the other side, the Slave and the end of the pipe is very well heat insulated (i learnt that running my +2). If i had to run the Clutch pipe up the hot side of the engine i think i'd put it on the other side of the bell housing but ideally you want as much of it away from the exhaust as possible.

On said +2 with the Original hard pipe set up in place it would work great until sat in traffic and then the Clutch would go very vague indeed until it cooled (you couldn't touch the Slave cylinder it got that hot). It was not very wise to have the Clutch anywhere near the exhaust because its quite sensitive to exhaust types of temperature but i guess we can blame ford for that, so help as much as poss try to keep the heat off the line and slave cylinder..
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PostPost by: mbell » Wed Mar 11, 2015 6:26 pm

Grizzly wrote:That looks less than Ideal, my clutch line goes across the bell housing inspection plate and up the other side, the Slave and the end of the pipe is very well heat insulated (i learnt that running my +2)..


I've done the same, hose runs down from slave cylinder, to the bottom of the bell housing where it is p-clipped via the cover mount bolt. Then it runs up near the right hand engine mount (P clip) and to the master. On Mine i added 6" solid line over the pedal box to help with routing.

I also added a length of silicon coated fiberglass pipe/wire insulation at the slave end due to the proximity of the headers.
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PostPost by: 7skypilot » Thu Mar 12, 2015 12:13 pm

+1 for stainless hoses, 'P' clips and heat insulation.

I also insulated the primaries where they run in very close proximity to the clutch slave and to the rubber gaiter of the clutch operating fork. So far this has prevented the fluid boiling and the gaiter degrading on hard alpine ascents even in the height of a continental summer.

I've also fitted a remote clutch bleed to allow simple bleeding from the engine bay, even if the engine is running. Stainless -3 hose from a banjo (IIRC) fitting replaces the bleed nipple and terminates in a 'bulkhead' fitting incorporating a bleed nipple. This is tucked away behind the block until needed. Simple and invisible and no more burns!

Think Automotive (thinkauto.com) made the fittings quickly and for a reasonable price. I've been using them for over thirty years!

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PostPost by: elj221c » Tue Mar 17, 2015 7:54 pm

I know the stainless braid stuff looks nice but is it really neccessary?

I ran my Elan with the 'hard pipe' set up for many 1000s of miles, including the daily commute to London up the A3 throught to the West End with never a clutch failure or over heated fluid.

So once bled, no need for remote nipples......
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PostPost by: patrics » Tue Mar 17, 2015 9:56 pm

William,
Just my opinion but that is no good.
The master cylinder should be the highest point.
It's way to close to the exhaust - the slave is already to close no need to compound the problem.
I ran my forward from m/cyl then down and under sump

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PostPost by: pharriso » Tue Mar 17, 2015 10:51 pm

There's a nice picture of the correct route here:

Image

Ideally the bleed nipple should be at the top of the slave cylinder.
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Wed Mar 18, 2015 10:01 am

elj221c wrote:I know the stainless braid stuff looks nice but is it really neccessary?


No its not, in fact the smaller hard pipe is Much easier to make look pretty and it holds up better to the heat. As far as i'm aware the only advantage of a full braided line is its easier to fit.
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PostPost by: Chancer » Wed Mar 18, 2015 11:00 am

"Ideally the bleed nipple should be at the top of the slave cylinder."

Its essential or you will not be able to bleed out the air.

Learned that the hard way :(
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Wed Mar 18, 2015 12:03 pm

Just a thought....if the slave cylinder was orientated so thet the bleed was at the bottom and the feed at the top would it be possible to run the line in an upwards direction to the master cylinder and fit an in-line ( remote ) bleed nipple at the highest point?

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Mar 18, 2015 12:09 pm

imho i have always kept the my lotus ?lans, that is Elan Sprint and also 3 different +2S as they left the factory and have never had problems. I think some owners just like tinkering :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: Chancer » Wed Mar 18, 2015 12:35 pm

john.p.clegg wrote:Just a thought....if the slave cylinder was orientated so thet the bleed was at the bottom and the feed at the top would it be possible to run the line in an upwards direction to the master cylinder and fit an in-line ( remote ) bleed nipple at the highest point?

John :wink:


Physically probably but the air would remain trapped in the top of the cylinder.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Mar 18, 2015 1:32 pm

You depress the clutch pedal and block with a piece of wood against the seat, crack the outlet at master cylinder and the returning slave cylinder will force trapped air out. Tighten master cylinder out let and release clutch pedal.
Job done :mrgreen:
Alan
Last edited by alan.barker on Wed Mar 18, 2015 4:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: Chancer » Wed Mar 18, 2015 3:56 pm

What a brilliant tip, bravo!

Perfect for those who who fit their slave cylinders upside down or is it perhaps a peculiarity of the Elan that its very difficult to get the bleed nipple at the top?
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