Lotus Elan

Peg drive spacing

PostPost by: holywood3645 » Mon Nov 11, 2013 4:34 am

I'm going to have a set of thin spaces made for the rear of my S4. I was wondering if anyone here has the peg drive size and spacing. I have an annoying rubbing noise when I corner coming from one side. Everything looks oh and rather than modify the bolts heads on the bottom link, I would prefer to fit a couple of thin spacers behind the Minilites. No problems on the OEM rims.

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James
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Mon Nov 11, 2013 6:50 am

Whip the wheel off and do a quick Brass-rubbing?

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PostPost by: Elanman99 » Mon Nov 11, 2013 5:18 pm

holywood3645 wrote:I'm going to have a set of thin spaces made for the rear of my S4. I was wondering if anyone here has the peg drive size and spacing. I have an annoying rubbing noise when I corner coming from one side. Everything looks oh and rather than modify the bolts heads on the bottom link, I would prefer to fit a couple of thin spacers behind the Minilites. No problems on the OEM rims.

Thanks
James


Before you space the wheels out you should determine what is actually rubbing and most importantly, why?

Having the tyre inner wall rubbing on the bottom spring perch has been heard of before and is curable in true Lotus tradition with a lump hammer.

Could be caused by failing wheel bearings but not very likely,

Are the outer wishbone bolts correct and do they have clearance to the wheel rim or are they the things that is rubbing?

If you have just bought new Minilite wheels, do they have the correct offset?

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PostPost by: holywood3645 » Mon Nov 11, 2013 7:36 pm

I re-read my previous post, before this edit, and though I was a little rude. (Sorry)

Without pulling the rear struts, I have tried everything. As I said, no issue with the OEM rims, and have plenty of clearance on the struts. Its an issue with the minilite, which is new.

Everthing looks fine, it rubs 'only slightly' on left hand corners. It rubs on the inside where the bolts (orginal) attached to the bottom control frame and touches one section of the rim. The spacer with will be < 1/8 of an inch. I would preferr to add the spacer than grind the bolt heads.
There are new bearings fitted, and the nuts on the hubs are torqued correctly. I cannot feel any play in the bearings if I wiggle the wheel when jacked up.

Thanks for all the advice, but I just really want the spacing of the 5 pegs. I am at a loss as to what else the problem could be.

James
Last edited by holywood3645 on Tue Nov 12, 2013 12:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: RichardHawkins » Mon Nov 11, 2013 9:06 pm

James,

I have just measured a hub. I come up with an answer of 5.502 inch pitch circle diameter. I expect the design size was 5.500 inch.

I assume you are asking an engineering company to make the spacer. May I suggest that you also ask the manufacturer of you spacer to measure your hub, thus avoiding dispute if it does not fit.

I also measured the the drive peg diameter at 0.427 inch which is 0.010 inch less than 7/16 inch which I think is the nominal size of the peg hole in the wheel.

Perhaps before proceeding you should check my figures against some more cars.

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PostPost by: gordont » Tue Nov 12, 2013 11:00 am

Before adding a spacer maybe worthwhile checking how many turns you get on the spinner (I think about 6) as would personally rather grind the top off a bolt than have the wheel drop off!
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PostPost by: rjaxe » Tue Nov 12, 2013 11:05 am

James, I measured the peg spacing in order to make an adaptor for wheel balancing. The sketch attached shows my results, these compare favourably with the dimensions in Richard's post.
Wheel Peg Dims.doc
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PostPost by: billwill » Tue Nov 12, 2013 3:14 pm

I guess you already have your answers now, but if you want to double check, it should be easy to do with a big geometry compass, like you used to use in school geometry lessons.

Just measure in turn the distance beteen pegs and between alternative pegs, then with a big sheet of paper draw intersecting arcs with the Compass, You also know they must be on radial lines of a fifth of a circle 72 degrees.

5 sets of intersecting arcs should meet in a crossover at the centre at each peg position.
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PostPost by: Elanman99 » Tue Nov 12, 2013 3:28 pm

billwill wrote:I guess you already have your answers now, but if you want to double check, it should be easy to do with a big geometry compass, like you used to use in school geometry lessons.

Just measure in turn the distance beteen pegs and between alternative pegs, then with a big sheet of paper draw intersecting arcs with the Compass, You also know they must be on radial lines of a fifth of a circle 72 degrees.

5 sets of intersecting arcs should meet in a crossover at the centre at each peg position.


Bill

Its a while since I did school geometry but something about your method does not ring true. Maybe I have not understood your explanation (or know even less than the teachers thought had sunk in!)

To draw the intersecting arcs it seems you already have to know the distance to the centre of the pentagon, in which case there is no need to measure in the first place.

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PostPost by: billwill » Tue Nov 12, 2013 3:31 pm

Elanman99 wrote:
billwill wrote:I guess you already have your answers now, but if you want to double check, it should be easy to do with a big geometry compass, like you used to use in school geometry lessons.

Just measure in turn the distance beteen pegs and between alternative pegs, then with a big sheet of paper draw intersecting arcs with the Compass, You also know they must be on radial lines of a fifth of a circle 72 degrees.

5 sets of intersecting arcs should meet in a crossover at the centre at each peg position.


Bill

Its a while since I did school geometry but something about your method does not ring true. Maybe I have not understood your explanation (or know even less than the teachers thought had sunk in!)

To draw the intersecting arcs it seems you already have to know the distance to the centre of the pentagon, in which case there is no need to measure in the first place.

Ian


Aye I noticed that after I posted, but you could do it by trial and error, moving the swivel point of the compass out along, say, a pair of the radial lines. Easier if you draw a number of circles first around the centre of the hub. You know you have the right answer when the intersecting 'triangles' as as small as you can get them.

My skule geometry is a bit rusty too, but I think you can actually calculate the radius from the average measurement between pegs (D) and the fact that they must subtend 72 degrees at the centre. I have vague memories that a cosine comes in there somewhere. 8)
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Tue Nov 12, 2013 5:07 pm

I think Tan 36 would be better,knowing A is 2.75" and you're looking for O which is half required measurement..

Approx 3.99598390403"

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Mind you this was pre-metric with chalk on slate..
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PostPost by: holywood3645 » Tue Nov 12, 2013 6:36 pm

Thanks Richard, that works. If I ever figure out why it rubbing I will post. I do realise its a bit of a band aid, but it will work. I prefer a thin spacer than take a grinder to the head of an a bolt that aleady has a thin head.
Thanks for all your help...

Now you can go back to your math lesson. Have at her lads :)
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PostPost by: billwill » Wed Nov 13, 2013 2:09 am

john.p.clegg wrote:I think Tan 36 would be better,knowing A is 2.75" and you're looking for O which is half required measurement..

Approx 3.99598390403"

John :wink:

Soh,Cah.Toa.

Mind you this was pre-metric with chalk on slate..



I'l have what he's drinking, thanks.

:mrgreen:
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PostPost by: khamai » Wed Nov 13, 2013 4:22 am

Here's the URL on the Golden Gate Lotus Club website to a diagram of the hole/peg drive spacing
http://gglotus.org/ggtech/elan-panaspor ... ls-pg2.pdf

The diagram is part of article written about the development of the Panasport K/O wheels.
http://gglotus.org/ggtech/elan-panasport/elanwhls.htm

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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Wed Nov 13, 2013 8:36 am

Hmmmm there it mentions 2.756"...

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