Lotus Elan

Diff bushes, seals, how far to go?

PostPost by: friedy » Wed Aug 28, 2013 8:58 pm

Ok so, story so far. I have some occasional clunking noise when putting power on and off. I have tightened the upper diff mount bolts, they were loose. Still have the clunking.
The torque rod bushes, the washer is smaller than the bushes and is compressing into them. The outside edge of the bush is hard and breaks off easily. Seems easy to replace. But if these have gone hard has the upper bushes gone hard as well. How easy is it to replace these?
Next dilemma. I need to replace ujs on my spyder drive shafts. Ok. but also have bit of leak from 1output shaft bearing. Have been reading all the archives on the diff and seems bit of a pig. I will be doing all this laying under the car. So how can I be sure where the clunk is coming from, how much can I do without removing the diff.
I havnt done anything quite as much as this before so seems a bit daunting. But while I got drive shafts off me thinks I need to go all the way.
What do think guys.
Alan.
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PostPost by: MickG » Wed Aug 28, 2013 9:57 pm

Hello Alan,
I would check the propshaft universal joint for any signs of play before removing the diff.
I have done this on my Sprint upside down on the garage floor. It can be a bit of a fiddle especially if someone has jacked up the rear of the car on the chassis. You need to get it at the right angle with a slight twist. I can't be more specific as one minute it's stuck next it's crushing your chest.
Best of luck I?m just down the road in Romford if you need any moral support.
Regards Mick G
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PostPost by: AHM » Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:01 pm

A very accurate description Mick!

Alan,
Do one thing at a time it won't be wasted.
The torque bushes are cheap and easy - do them anyway.
Can you inspect the frustacones from inside the boot on a +2?

Worn drive shafts will clonk. The diff hitting things will 'Thump'
If you are doing the drive shafts you can get the long bolt out to change the frustacones. If they need doing it is 2 bolts and 4 screws, all of which you can ensure are not seized before you start.

Taking the diff out is a different game altogether. Once you have done all of the above that is probably enough lying on the floor. Drive it for the remainder of summer see if the clonk is cured, then come back to the bearing in the knowledge that everything comes undone and that you have /not cured the clonk.
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PostPost by: billwill » Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:41 pm

You have a workshop manual, I hope!
Bill Williams

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PostPost by: RotoFlexible » Thu Aug 29, 2013 1:38 pm

While you are changing the torque rod bushes, make sure the nuts that secure the rods to the chassis are tight. I think there is supposed to be a conical washer that prevents them from shifting. If those nuts aren't tight or there is play elsewhere in the attachment, you will get a clonk.
Andrew Bodge
'66 Elan S2 26/4869
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
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PostPost by: friedy » Thu Aug 29, 2013 4:52 pm

Ok, yes good idea to change a bit at a time. I have ordered the torque rod bushes, and as you say easy to do so will do these first and check the chassis fixing nut.
The nuts for the upper mounts are right under the fuel tank, cant see the rubber mounts, only just enough room to get a spanner in. I have got a workshop manual and it makes it all sound so simple.
Mick, nice to find someone is local to share lotus experience with. I am going to a charity car show on sunday at fords technical centre Dunton, if your around.
Alan.
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