Lotus Elan

newbe needs to change rotoflex

PostPost by: friedy » Tue Jun 05, 2012 12:40 pm

Hi all, newbe here, had my plus 2 since september and been doing a pre MOT check over looks like the rotoflex needs changing. I dont have the usual Lotus setup, i have a UJ and one inboard rotoflex. anyway my question (and I know it will be on the forum somewhere :oops: ) how do i Jack the rear of the car for this job, didnt fancy jacking under the cill point being firty year old fibreglass.

Oh and another question if anyone has a similer setup, do I have to remove the complete drive shaft or can i replace the rotoflex from the one end, looks like the shaft goes inside the rotoflex.

I would appreciate your advice on this as i must admit I am a bit daunted thinking about this job.

Alan
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PostPost by: J.E.S » Tue Jun 05, 2012 1:09 pm

Hi Alan - To do this job you will need to get the drive shaft as near horizontal as possible to achieve minimum distortion of the coupling - this can be achieved by raising the A frame at the outer end (alu wheel bearing carrier end) use a suitable length of timber to spread the load. From your image it looks a straight forward job - follow the usual procedure for fitting rotoflex couplings, as I remember the couplings have a right and wrong way round, your new coupling should have binding around it, this is removed once everything is fitted and tightened up. Good luck John.
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PostPost by: Henry VIIII » Tue Jun 05, 2012 2:02 pm

Billwill did a description with photos. This was for a two-seat Elan, so not all of it will apply to your +2.

Doughnut = rotoflex coupling.

elan-f14/replacing-the-doughnuts-t16456.html

Note that Jubilee clips instead of the supplied steel clamp will give you better control of the position of the bolt holes.

The bit going into the centre of the doughnut is not fastened to anything, it is a safety precaution which helps prevent the shaft from flailing about if the doughnut breaks.
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PostPost by: simonknee » Tue Jun 05, 2012 3:46 pm

This is very similar to the Spyder setup (one CV, one donut) that I fitted a couple of years ago. It is easier than fitting two donuts since the UJ/CV can't help but line-up with the holes!

You should find that the movement of the UJ and the sliding spline help make things easier. Heed the advice of the other posters - though you may be able to get away with not detaching your a-frame.

You might find that the safety extension bit gets in the way of dissembling or it is a struggle to line things up with the new donuts. If so then I would suggest you undo the UJ end of things, fit the donuts and shafts then redo the UJ end. This could make it all a lot easier especially if you can't get the axle particularly horizontal.

I would replace the nuts/bolts at the UJ end for good measure too with the same special grade as the donuts require (talk to paul matty, spyder, etc).

Simon
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PostPost by: Jason1 » Tue Jun 05, 2012 4:17 pm

Hi Alan

I used to have the same Spyder set up on my +2 but have changed to CV joints now.

You should be able to put a trolley jack on the chassis (using jacking pad) and remove the rotoflex from the attached shaft. Undo the bolts and slide the joint and the rotoflex will drop off.

A pic of my jacking pad below. The 2 small blocks of wood rest on the chassis and the exhaust is inbetween. The large piece is a bit thick to get under the car and I keep meaning to make another.

More +2 in Essex :lol:

Jason
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PostPost by: vernon.taylor » Wed Jun 06, 2012 8:19 am

Salut Jason

Why did you change from the Spyder setup? What were the differences you noticed?

Did you sell your Spyder driveshafts?

@+

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PostPost by: Jason1 » Wed Jun 06, 2012 1:21 pm

Why did you change from the Spyder setup? What were the differences you noticed?

Did you sell your Spyder driveshafts?


Hi

I never noticed the 'wind up' that others describe with the Lotus system. I drove the car with the Spyder setup (MK1 rear suspension and UJ shafts) for about 3 years.

I drove it home from work one day after an MOT (about 50 miles) and it did not feel right. So I jacked up the rear and had a look; I found both rear springs and one rotoflex were broken. I had left the car with a 'friend' to adjust the handbrake and drop it off at the MOT tester for me as I was at work. :? I guess he took it for a drive after the test (he is not a friend anymore).

I found new Rotoflex expensive and was unsure about the reliability of the rubber. Spyder were unwilling to give me the spring rates for the old springs. At that point I decided to do away with as many of the Spyder components as possible. I also spoke to TT on the phone and he poo pooed the Mk1 Spyder system and said it was better to throw it in the bin.

I bought 5x used issue 18 rear struts before I got 2 good ones. I could have kept the Spyder shafts but wanted rid of anything Spyder. I called Sue Miller and got a good deal on the CV shafts and as I already had the rear off it was an easy decision.

I did sell the old shafts to Matt on here for a knock down price and he fitted them to his +2. As far as I am aware he is very happy with them. I would have no worries about using the Spyder shafts but would be concerned about how long the Rotoflex would last.

Jason
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PostPost by: twincamman » Wed Jun 06, 2012 5:38 pm

the sliding spline looks like a Triumph part ----Ill bet a nice beefy aluminium spacer to replace that nasty rubber bit would solve a lot of problems there and last a long time ---ed
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Wed Jun 06, 2012 6:29 pm

You don't really mean to replace the rotoflex with a solid spacer do you??

John :wink:
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PostPost by: friedy » Wed Jun 06, 2012 7:33 pm

spoke to spyder today and they said they hadnt made them with UJ since 87, well they seem ok and i dont do many miles so i have ordered the couplings,
thanks for the advice hopefully have a go at the weekend if its not raining :roll:

alan.
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