Clutch and brake pedal height
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I looked in the archives without success, so could someone please tell me whether these pedals were of the same height when they came off the production line.
My S3 and S4 both have brake pedals higher than the clutch pedal and I am thinking that I may have the wrong pushrods in both brake m/cs.
Cheers
Jim
My S3 and S4 both have brake pedals higher than the clutch pedal and I am thinking that I may have the wrong pushrods in both brake m/cs.
Cheers
Jim
Always grateful for advice.
- FOX5D
- Second Gear
- Posts: 79
- Joined: 06 Sep 2009
Jim,
When I replaced both master cylinders on my '68 S4 I reused the old pushrods. The clutch and brake pedals are just about level(within 1 or 2 mm) and sit about 8 mm higher then the accelerator. The distance from the rubber dust/grease seal, on the master cylinders, to the centre of the pivot pins, on the pedals, is approx' 68mm.
Colin.
When I replaced both master cylinders on my '68 S4 I reused the old pushrods. The clutch and brake pedals are just about level(within 1 or 2 mm) and sit about 8 mm higher then the accelerator. The distance from the rubber dust/grease seal, on the master cylinders, to the centre of the pivot pins, on the pedals, is approx' 68mm.
Colin.
FOX5D wrote:I looked in the archives without success, so could someone please tell me whether these pedals were of the same height when they came off the production line.
My S3 and S4 both have brake pedals higher than the clutch pedal and I am thinking that I may have the wrong pushrods in both brake m/cs.
Cheers
Jim
'68 S4 DHC
- fatboyoz
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 631
- Joined: 04 Oct 2003
Some info on the different factory clutch and brake push rod lengths in the following thread.
elan-f14/clutch-master-pushrod-lenght-t15030.html
I did some looking in the S1, S2 and Xoupe parts manual. It lists the various clutch and brake push rods as in the following.
CLUTCH PUSH RODS pages 54 and 55
RHD and LHD
26/0001 - 26/0108
PG49 (Girling) 64674539
26/0109 through Coupe
PG49 (Girling) 64673863
BRAKE PUSH RODS pages 25 and 28
RHD and LHD first 100 S1's
CF21 (Girling) 64674539
from then on S1 and S2's
.625 inch master cylinder
RHD
CF8 (Girling) 64673863
LHD
CF10 (Girling) 391017
.700 master cylinder
RHD
CF17 (Girling) 64673863
LHD
CF20 (Girling) 391017
hope this helps some or adds to the confusion, it has mine
p-a
elan-f14/clutch-master-pushrod-lenght-t15030.html
I did some looking in the S1, S2 and Xoupe parts manual. It lists the various clutch and brake push rods as in the following.
CLUTCH PUSH RODS pages 54 and 55
RHD and LHD
26/0001 - 26/0108
PG49 (Girling) 64674539
26/0109 through Coupe
PG49 (Girling) 64673863
BRAKE PUSH RODS pages 25 and 28
RHD and LHD first 100 S1's
CF21 (Girling) 64674539
from then on S1 and S2's
.625 inch master cylinder
RHD
CF8 (Girling) 64673863
LHD
CF10 (Girling) 391017
.700 master cylinder
RHD
CF17 (Girling) 64673863
LHD
CF20 (Girling) 391017
hope this helps some or adds to the confusion, it has mine
p-a
Last edited by Guest on Thu Jul 14, 2011 9:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2634
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Hi Jim,
When I got some new master cylinders they came with a straight pushrod with threaded end but no clevis. Looking at the old rods (with clevis) the holes were extremely worn allowing the pedals to slop round all over the shop, which is nasty.
I got some clevises off ebay with slightly larger pin sizes (8mm from memory?) and then drilled out the holes in each pedal arm very slightly and now the whole thing feels as good as new, with no play when you (or the spring between pedal and pedalbox frame) pull the pedal up towards you. The bonus was that with the threaded rod/clevis arrangement the rod length is adjustable. If you don't want to replace the M/C the threaded rods are available but its awkward replacing them with the M/Cs/pedal box in situ, particularly if the circlip is seized in..
Cheers,
Will
When I got some new master cylinders they came with a straight pushrod with threaded end but no clevis. Looking at the old rods (with clevis) the holes were extremely worn allowing the pedals to slop round all over the shop, which is nasty.
I got some clevises off ebay with slightly larger pin sizes (8mm from memory?) and then drilled out the holes in each pedal arm very slightly and now the whole thing feels as good as new, with no play when you (or the spring between pedal and pedalbox frame) pull the pedal up towards you. The bonus was that with the threaded rod/clevis arrangement the rod length is adjustable. If you don't want to replace the M/C the threaded rods are available but its awkward replacing them with the M/Cs/pedal box in situ, particularly if the circlip is seized in..
Cheers,
Will
- ill_will
- Third Gear
- Posts: 273
- Joined: 18 Apr 2008
Thanks Will
I've now decided that I am going to convert both my cars to dual circuit braking so when I get the m/cs I will make sure that I correct my previous errors.
The answer to my original question seems to be that the pedal heights were the same when the cars were originally built, which makes sense to me.
Thanks for your help.
Cheers
Jim
I've now decided that I am going to convert both my cars to dual circuit braking so when I get the m/cs I will make sure that I correct my previous errors.
The answer to my original question seems to be that the pedal heights were the same when the cars were originally built, which makes sense to me.
Thanks for your help.
Cheers
Jim
Always grateful for advice.
- FOX5D
- Second Gear
- Posts: 79
- Joined: 06 Sep 2009
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