Lotus Elan

Gearbox swop?

PostPost by: alexblack13 » Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:29 pm

Ian... You need the black drive gear. But there is not a lot of difference I am told (By Graham Boulton).. I just happened to have one and its an easy swop on the bench. Impossible ish on the car though. Do it now mate...

Alex..
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PostPost by: iancockshull » Mon Feb 28, 2011 8:03 pm

Thanks for the info Alex - I am pretty certain that I have a black speedo drive gear in my current 4 speed box, will that interchange into the Lotus 5 speed? The green gear in the 5 speed box has helical teeth.
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Mon Feb 28, 2011 8:17 pm

iancockshull wrote:Thanks for the info Alex - I am pretty certain that I have a black speedo drive gear in my current 4 speed box, will that interchange into the Lotus 5 speed? The green gear in the 5 speed box has helical teeth.

The speedo drive assembly is common to 4 & 5 speed boxes.
The colour is meant to relate to the diff ratio, but comments on this forum has often put this theory into question.
From Brian Buckland's manual: (number of teeth is from my records).
Blue.....3.9:1 (25 teeth)
Green...3.77:1 (24 teeth)
Black....3.55:1 (22 teeth)
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Mon Feb 28, 2011 8:17 pm

They are the same. = Straight swop!!

Happy days... 8)

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PostPost by: iancockshull » Mon Feb 28, 2011 8:32 pm

Thanks Brian and Alex
The gearchange lever mod is also on my to-do list to make it align better with the 4 speed lever position. The exhaust clearance past the box also worries me a bit.
I think am going to be a tad cunning and wait for Alex to finish finding all the snags before I attempt to do my gearbox swap. :lol:
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Mon Feb 28, 2011 8:38 pm

Oh God! I have been relying on Brian.... :lol: :lol: :lol:

It will be ok.. Exhaust is about next on my list...

Keep you posted as normal
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:33 pm

Hi Guys...

Got a few hours on the car yesterday and fixed the broken rev' light switch. Re attached the prop' to the diff' and routed the rev' light switch cable. Fitted the gear-lever and tested that out gently. Looks fine, but notchy (No Oil yet and stationary box) Selected reverse and whaaflamminla. Let there be (reversing) light!

The clutch re plumbing job is finished and next up is the exhaust manifold refit. Bottled out of helicoiling all the stud holes. :? So its back to screwing the studs back in through the flanges.

I'll post a few pic's of the new clutch line route and mod's as soon as I take some.

Alex... 8)
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Sat Mar 19, 2011 2:22 pm

Hi Guys....

Work has been progressing normally and I am almost nearing the push button stage to fire it up. But... My run of bad luck (I think) seams to continue. I have it almost ready to go and this morning filled it with oil and water. Then I removed the plugs and squirted a couple shots of lube into the Cly's before cranking it over to get the oil pressure up. It has been sitting a while remember! ... Everything looking fine and dandy.

Except when I started cranking for oil pressure... Zilch. No oil pressure. I don't want to keep cranking at it as it was not a rebuild.So there might not a lot of oil around the insides of the crank etc. I have filled the oil galleries best I can through the oil pressure union, I put a good half pint of oil into it. Filled the oil filter too before fitting it & the level is spot on. I am getting very good cranking speed and I am somewhat surprised that I have no oil pressure.

The only thing changed is the sump which was replaced with a hopefully oil tight item. Unlike the one I removed. And a new O ring was fitted to the oil pump plate & the plate is tight up to the body as it should be.

The engine was running perfectly prior to starting the box swap with 40+ pressure.

Any ideas guys? Looking for some inspiration here. Somewhat pissed off at having to take it apart again.

Thinking taking oil pump off 1st and starting there.. Can it come out ok with the mounts in place etc? Or am I taking the mounts off too? Will it come out if I remove the carb side mount and jack the motor up slightly to clear?

Alex.... :?
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PostPost by: ardee_selby » Sat Mar 19, 2011 4:00 pm

Alex,

You have a PM

Cheers - Richard
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Sat Mar 19, 2011 4:01 pm

Read up on some of the archive stuff and had another go. Everything I read I had done or checked so it was push button time. :roll:

Baaroom.. It lives again... and it has oil pressure! :wink: :wink: :wink: :wink:

Beer time now.

Tomorrow is airbox and filter fit. Exhaust system fit and gear selection + clutch action test..

Next week I go collect my repaired bonnet...

Alex....
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Mar 20, 2011 7:13 pm

And then there were FIVE.

:shock: :D
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PostPost by: 512BB » Sun Mar 20, 2011 9:27 pm

Very often Alex, after an oil and filter change during service, the oil pressure does not come up on the dial when spinning it over, but as soon as the plugs go back in, and it fires up, pressure comes up almost immediately. And I always fill the filter. Not sure why that might be, but there you go.

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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Sun Mar 20, 2011 10:14 pm

Hello guys!...

Hi Bill thanks for the wee bit of encouragement.I do hope you are right mate! I would hate to find only four after all the effort etc... It is looking good though. One thing I have noticed is the fact that the lever position looks to be a bit further left.Not a big amount, but there is a bit of offset towards the passenger side. This is making fitting the 4 speed rubber gaiter etc a bit difficult,But we will get there..

Leslie.. I always fill the filter too. It does help the pressure come up faster.No doubt about it.. I think just the speed of the engine brings the oil up and gives pressure. It started (like world war 3. No exhaust system on ) but through the smoke I saw 60 psi almost. Stopped it right away due to noise!!

Today I have fitted the air-box & filter ass'y. The air horn(s) Stuble Nautilus), and reconnected (soldered!) the con's to the rev' light switch and tested. All ok!! Great.

That leaves just the exhaust main pipe and box, A R bar and eerrr Bonnet! Which is in Birmingham! (option 1) Mrs B and I are collecting next weekend...


So far so good. I just need it to drive nice now with no issues and ... Foreign runs here we come.

Have fun guys.. Summer will be with us next week!!

Alex B... 8)
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:20 am

alexblack13 wrote:One thing I have noticed is the fact that the lever position looks to be a bit further left.Not a big amount, but there is a bit of offset towards the passenger side. This is making fitting the 4 speed rubber gaiter etc a bit difficult,But we will get there.

I found mine the same, Alex.

Did two things----
1. Changed the RH engine mount to standard - as per LH side. (I do have Jenvey throttle bodies).
2. Loosened the gearbox mounts ans levered it to the right. (I'm not exactly sure how effective it was).

Gear lever still a little to the left, but much improved.
Gearbox Lever Aperture.JPG and
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:40 am

Hi Guys, Brian...

Just a slight issue with the 4 speed rubber seal / gaiter. Its just slightly wrong position wise. I did cut the hole in my new ally plate cover below the center consul to suit, but the 4 speed lever bush is all sitting inside the rubber gaiter and is a bit tight for space. Not test driven it yet (No Bonnet still)

See pics.. The lever is in neutral position..

I might go back to the 5 speed lever that Graham Boulton sent with the box and just use a leather gaiter (for e.g.)

Looks not to bad though and I think I can get it better. Those pics show it just laid together.. Just a try out really.

What have others done 'gaiter wise'? What have you done Brian?
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