Lotus Elan

CV Driveshafts - again

PostPost by: Elanman99 » Mon May 03, 2010 7:50 pm

I hope this is not the start of another long thread on the pros & cons of solid versus rubber shafts, but..

I am considering a DIY CV shaft conversion and would like to speed up the process by following what others have used. On searching the forum I found repeated mentions of VW/Lobro joints. Does anyone have a specific Lobro part number of which size and type of joint to use?

I know of the commercial conversion kits available but I would prefer to make my own.

Thanks

Ian

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PostPost by: types26/36 » Mon May 03, 2010 8:38 pm

I've done the VW CV conversion, I'll dig some facts and figures out for you tomorrow if I get the time.
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cv1.jpg and
cv2.jpg and
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PostPost by: robertverhey » Mon May 03, 2010 11:13 pm

That'd be great, I'm also doing this conversion on an S3, using Superbug shafts. The two crucial measurements I need are the final length of the inner shaft and the thickness of the adaptor plates at either end. A CAD schematic of the plate holes would be a bonus!

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PostPost by: pauljones » Tue May 04, 2010 6:01 pm

Sorry to hijack the thread,but i asked a while back about uprated driveshafts for a plus 2.They all seem a bit pricey for me at the moment,So my question would be can you PM me with the cost to complete and a little about how you done it please...I have a standard back end if that helps.


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PostPost by: Jas » Thu May 06, 2010 8:45 pm

I haven't made my own CV drive shafts but I made these adapter plates to fit the Miller CV's, after idea from Victor Hollnagel. The studs are Ford items from Rally Design turned down to fit in length and diameter. These studs won't come loose they are ribbed and press fitted.

I can make you some plates if you are interested.
Attachments
IMG_2379.JPG and
P1000460.JPG and
P1000457.JPG and
P1000459.JPG and
Last edited by Jas on Wed Jun 09, 2010 8:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: scottlong1 » Fri May 07, 2010 12:28 am

just to throw another 2 slightly off topic but relevant issues into the ring, how are people limiting droop with cv's? and is there any issue with the driveshaft wandering between the 2 cv's? (both joints are capable of plunging)

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PostPost by: Jas » Thu Jun 03, 2010 7:00 am

Hi Robert

Your CV-flanges for the WV joints are in the post.
You just need to fit the coreplugs.
Hope they work out for you.

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Attachments
Yours.JPG and
Last edited by Jas on Wed Jun 09, 2010 8:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Fri Jun 04, 2010 11:56 am

scottlong1 wrote:just to throw another 2 slightly off topic but relevant issues into the ring, how are people limiting droop with cv's? and is there any issue with the driveshaft wandering between the 2 cv's? (both joints are capable of plunging)

scott



Droop limit versus CV use is a complex issue

Things to consider

1. Type of CV's used and maximum angular deflection ( not all Cv's are the same)
2. Is it an Elan or plus 2 ( longer plus 2 suspension arms means less angular deflection )
3. What type of shocks used ( shock travel is different between brands and models)

In general a plus 2 with most shocks and most Cv's is OK in droop. An Elan needs a droop limiting straps with many shocks and CV combinations. A lot of people dont worry and get away with it as they rarely drive with the suspension on full droop. You can limit droop with droop cables or straps or by modifiying the shock top rod to shorten it if needed.

On my plus 2 nothing was needed on my Elan I use droop cables

The spring properties of the rubber boots keep the CV's stable and centred in their travel

Cheers
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PostPost by: elans4dhc » Thu Jun 10, 2010 6:22 pm

I've just received one of Jannik's octagon nut tool - perfect! It's really well made, just the job superbly well, the only downside being it is a trifle expensive.
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